Leaderboard

This is a splicing method I use for tight spaces like inside the motor housing or anywhere a big, fat wire splice will just not work. 1. Strip and clean about 1/2 inch of both wires 2. Slide a short piece of shrink tube on the new wire 3. Pull a 2 inch single strand of copper wire from a donor wire, tie a loose overhand knot and put it over the new wire. 4. Push the stranded wires together so they somewhat intertwine and temporarily clip them together. I use an alligator clip for this but if you were around in 1969 we called is by another name. 5. Move your knotted loop to the center of the splice and tighten. Tweezers work well here. 6. Tightly wrap the donor wire strand in one direction, then the other end. 7. A drop if solder is optional but will make the splice bullet proof. 8. Move the shrink tube up and heat to insulate and strengthen. 9. To finish the head wires, I use a flat woven shoelace as a fabric conduit. Cut off the plastic end tips and you have a nice woven tube to dress up your head wires. Terry Plata

Turned out pretty good. Had issues with rotor making a loud thumping noise, so I replaced it with a 77646 rotor. Runs smooth now. I had some white paint so I painted it white with blue felt to match the badge.

I had a (rare) good day at the flea market Friday. I found 3 salvageable fans. A 9" red badge Emerson Junior Oscillator, a 12" GE continuous oscillator and a Century S3-16. All of them seem to run although the GE just barely moves. I am hoping it is nothing more than decades of gummed up oil in the bearings. I haven't had this productive a day in years.

Great work you do Louis . You should be able to make 200 of those and sell all of them.

Steve Stephen’s example pictured and the one in my living room are welded cages just like yours. I would say yours is correct especially since the badge paint appears to match the motor paint. Nice solid find.

Another, Form AB, with original finish. So often someone removes the paint from the brass bell but GE painted them all the same color as the rest of the fan.

Picked this fan and it has its original paint in pretty good condition. Form V5 which is 1920 according to the Form # chart. Original headwire also. Cage is welded and should be wrapped? Wrong cage?

Also called a round back because of the gear box shape. The link screws on to make it oscillate continuously instead of having a place to tighten and engage the oscillator on top. The next model after that one has the same shape gearbox with an early star engagement.

Draft

I like this method and I also use the Western Union splice short tie. I have used the long tie where I needed to change headwire direction and bend it at an angle to exit the housing. I try to use a dab of solder at the ends of the wire on each side just to minimize chances of it unwrapping. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice

FYI, that diagram is from the 1930 catalogue. Here’s a link! 1930 Dealer’s Catalogue

Supposedly also 1895...

Thank Stephen, the tag was the main reason I bid on it. I couldn’t make out the type number in the photos but realized it had the earlier braille tag. The only other one I have is on my 1520.

Because, steak.

Here's one a saved from the junk pile.

This one is probably late 30s, much newer.

Well now, maybe it cures ADHD or at least keeps you from falling asleep

I once got a settlement from a class action lawsuit! I received a 47 cent check in the mail!!! That baby got framed and hung on the wall for many years!!!