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  1. Here it is, fully complete VID_20240324_141451.mp4 and functional. Look for a video in the next few days about this one in greater detail. Man, those Monster Energy drinks are really stimulating my imagination.
    9 points
  2. I received a request to reproduce a Manhattan fan cage using a sample. When I opened the box, I was met with a real problem. The center piece was a stamped ring instead of a solid ring. I don't have a punch press and tooling to make these, so If I couldn't figure out a way to fab this up, I would have to return the cage and not accept this project. Searching around my toolbox, I found a huge tube socket for the sprocket nut on one of my bikes. It was the right size. I rounded the end of it on my belt sander and radiused the inside with my moto tool. Taking some sheet brass, I measured it up and cut it to size. Using hammer and dolly method, I folded the edges around the tube socket, stopping to frequently anneal the brass so it wouldn't crack and split. At this point I used my drill press to push the center through inside the tube socket. Now I had something that would work. Success. I saved the project. The rest is just like any other cage, with rings and spokes. Cheers, Bill
    9 points
  3. As you all can likely see, we are in the midst of making some changes to the forums. There will be new categories added, a few deleted, and a few renamed. Please take the time to familiarize yourself with the changes. You can see my article in the April Fan Collector magazine if you want to hear about what all is going on in the background.
    9 points
  4. We have completed the transfer of the old forum material over to the new forums. You will find it all in the Members Area, under Old Forums. Once in the Members area, you'll need to click on the Old Forums title to display all of the Old Forums categories. We transferred everything we were able to transfer (which was content for any old posts including categories, images, videos, copy, etc.). Some things were unable to be transferred such as specific membership or guest privileges for the old posts (everyone became a Guest on the old posts and no icons were able to be transferred). I had to move everything within our current forum structure one last time, so our servers may be busy indexing the new position of the images and videos. I would like to give all of this a week to kind of update and settle in before having any discussions on what is working, what is where, and why. Although the "why" is kind of easy. You all requested it, Larry Hancock and Lane Shirey headed it up, and the Board approved and was able to pay for it. The old forums are in the Members area and should only be available to Members. It should be searchable, at least up to whatever the search capabilities are in our other forums on this relatively new platform. I do not yet know if a search by Guests will display content from the Old forums. That remains to be seen and addressed if needed. No one should be able to post anything to the old forums or reply to anything in the old forums. Enjoy your new toy! šŸ˜
    8 points
  5. Hi Everybody! Finally I finished my 12" Jandus Wire yoke. I acquired over a year ago. The biggest problem was get the right blade, When I received the fan it had a 12" GE blade on it so I started looking for the right blade. I had no luck finding one so I decided to let Dan Nguyen make one for me, Dan made me a beautiful correct Jandus blade and shipped it my way. That is when the problems started, three months later still no blade. The last tracking report it was at JFK airport, After another two months Dan decided it was lost and said he would make another one for me. The second blade arrived in about a month safe and sound in bullet proof metal box. Dan is the man he fabricated two beautiful blade and I finally got one. Rick Huckabee rewound the stator, Darryl Hudson replaced the bearings and sent me a bearing cap for it. Anyway its done! Video.MOV
    7 points
  6. Jamie has worked really hard to make the forums a bit more user friendly. We now have a section for birthdays, congratulatory messages, etc under the Community section. Box fan tab now includes industrial fans, circulators, belt drives, etc. We hope you like the changes & hope it makes things more user friendly. I will be moving posts around to new areas the next several days, so be patient. THANKS JAMIE!
    6 points
  7. Finished up restoring this all brass. It runs in three distinct speeds. Circa 1911. No painting on this one. I sent the whole motor too Mark Olsen to have the stator rewound. He discovered that the rotor shaft had to be replaced and align the bearings. Mark did an awesome job! I can't thank him enough. The fan runs quiet and smooth. This is my second all brass fan. The other is an 8" Western Electric.
    6 points
  8. According to the email I received from Invision (Our Forum Software Provider), the following is planned (and outside my control): Your Community Upgrade is Scheduled Tuesday, March 26th What to Expect Your community will be upgraded to the latest version on Tuesday, March 26th in the morning, Eastern time. Minimal downtime is expected during the upgrade itself. We will proceed with this upgrade as planned unless we hear from you. I don't know how much this might affect us (if at all), but just a heads-up for everyone who regularly gets on here and posts/replies/researches in case we encounter any more issues.
    6 points
  9. Please use the DARK THEME (found at the bottom of the forums) until further notice. Invision is porting all our old forum material to the new forums as well as us having to make a software update in order for them to do that. As stated in the Announcements & News forum, we are going to experience some issues as no matter what, software updates (along with moving the old forum over) are going to cause some issues. I believe, along with the software update (and the immediate patch - "fixing" the software update they sent out), we are seeing a lag in image loads as the server has to now index a ton more photos that are being brought over from the old forum. I will try to keep everyone posted as to what I know as soon as I know it.
    5 points
  10. Please use the DARK THEME (found at the bottom of the forums) until further notice. Invision is porting all our old forum material to the new forums as well as us having to make a software update in order for them to do that. As stated in the Announcements & News forum, we are going to experience some issues as no matter what, software updates (along with moving the old forum over) are going to cause some issues. I believe, along with the software update (and the immediate patch - "fixing" the software update they sent out), we are seeing a lag in image loads as the server has to now index a ton more photos that are being brought over from the old forum. I will try to keep everyone posted as to what I know as soon as I know it.
    5 points
  11. Highly dependent on how complete and functional it is. Fair could be $300 or $1000
    5 points
  12. Still a work in progress. Special thanks to Seth Anderson for the 3D printed centers.
    4 points
  13. I do initially clean with toilet bowl cleaner and again before clearing. Purpose of initially cleaning is to knock off any film over past 100 years that could allow paint from adhering in places. Paint that lifts when wet sanding is no fun. Hot water and toilet bowl cleaner used again once finished to strip off any polish and grit on painted fields before clearing. I never use anything aerosol. Purpose of airbrush is to have full control of fluid flow and anything aerosol never compares. Start by cleaning as above with toilet bowl cleaner. Sometimes scrubbed with toothbrush if crusty. Rinse with hot water for clean surface. Airbrush base color or flat enamel. Enamel is harder vs acrylic or mystery paints found in aerosols. Remove paint from high brass areas with small pieces of 1000 grit sand paper wet sanded with soap water. Soapy water allows sand paper to glide easily. Any areas of paint removed unintentionally are spot touched up with airbrush. This could be as small as 1/8ā€ area vs starting over again. Once high areas knocked down with 1000 grit then use 1500 and 2000 to remove sanding marks. After that a non solvent based polish and cotton tshirt. The tag or badge will have grit and polish residue. To clean use toilet bowl cleaner / hot water again. Then clear. When I use lacquer will do a light dusting then additional dustings with airbrush until satisfied. This will lock the surface and prevent wrinkling of paint or bleeding when using light coats. If using urethane generally just one heavy coat. Airbrushes provide control vs anything you will ever find in a can. The idea is to have the thinnest layers of paint that are solid enough to block brass surface and thin enough to easily be removed where needed. Easily touched up when needed. Airbrushes will give you adjustable 1/8ā€ through 1ā€ paint pattern radius. This badge is white primer, white base, pearl layer and then urethane. 4 layers of painted material. It is perfect and took multiple attempts. I also use an airbrush opened up to 1ā€ pattern to lacquer brass blades. Low air pressure does not kick dust into wet lacquer and avoids orange peel both of which work against mirrored brass.
    4 points
  14. As Stan mentioned in second post is how it is done. Different approaches but clean and polish the brass high points. I then airbrush the black areas. Never scrape or pick away paint however use 1000-2000 grit sandpaper with soapy water to knock paint off high areas. Any black areas which get messed up can be touched up with airbrush vs starting from scratch. Sanding marks are then hand polished with old cotton shirt and car polish. Badge/tags cleaned under hot water and toilet bowl cleaner. Then cleared. Generally use flat black enamel paint from Testors or automotive base paint
    4 points
  15. I will post with prices in the BST as soon as I get the pricing... I just purchased about 50lbs. Of solid brass slotted machine screws for those projects that need a little bling... Most of these machine screws are about 75yrs old and come from an old factory in NY... These are ase sized and usable for nearly all American fans... I have these in quantity! You need them, chances are I have them... I am taking these to any fan meets I go to and will ship! Here are some pics. to wet your whistle! It is a drag to need proper slot headed screws that are not skinned up for your project! These will make any fan collectors projects shine! Message me if you need them mailed! My plans are to sell these for half or less what you will find them for anywhere...
    4 points
  16. Post to the wire I made for Edison C Frame
    3 points
  17. Going a lil backwards here. Way too many imperfections in the base that weren't being hidden. Stripped the paint and prepped for some body work. Using 3M light weight body filler as it's easy to carve down.
    3 points
  18. Picked my pedestal swan today! First one I have seen.
    3 points
  19. It's hard to give a tutorial for something requiring dexterity and patience. Like when my kindergarten teacher would tell me to only color between the lines. Some badges can be sprayed and the high points sanded but this really only works on more simple designs and risks wearing down the embossing before you can get the painting right. I brush on water based acrylic urethane airbrush paint. I remove paint from embossing with an xacto knife and fine hobby q-tips dipped in denatured alcohol. Then I put down a bleed check layer and clear coat of choice over that. That's the method I used for this.
    3 points
  20. I have a spare can also. Personally I like Anthonyā€™s approach. I found a few cans after searching hardware stores nation wide. I used most on a GE AK1 (1930) and found it to be very dark and didnā€™t really match the original. I recently acquired a 1926 GE with its original paint and I can tell you that Anthonyā€™s mix is almost spot on to the original paint. I have a paint store near me that deals with local auto painters and will match and mix up any color you want. Theyā€™ll give it to you in pop cans too. Iā€™m gonna take Anthonyā€™s pic and have them mix up a small batch to use on my most recent GE project. Photo #1 is the GE 16ā€ AK1 Photo #2 is a 12ā€ 78x840 with original paint.
    3 points
  21. I picked this out of a color book. Not sure it's exact but it looks great
    3 points
  22. The all-aluminum 9" Cool Spot was introduced to the market 1923. The 8" Signal Jr. with stamp steel motor housing and cast iron base finished in black japan went to market the following year.
    2 points
  23. I can get this fan for $50 but I have to take it down. Blades are there and look in Good condition. Thoughts? .
    2 points
  24. Hello fan friends: I recently acquired (as many of you know) my second Manhattan No. 3 on the left below. The original, on the right, had one knurled post and one other odd connector. The one on the left had just what you see. I spoke to Darryl Hudson (my go to guy) and asked him the reproduce the knurled terminal posts. Today, he completed them and sent me the pictures below. For those of you that prefer the "aged" look, Darryl made an extra set for inventory seen below. Feel free to contact Darryl, if you want a set of these for your Manhattan No. 3. Prices are between you and Darryl but as for me, Darryl's craftsmanship is priceless!
    2 points
  25. Just happened to stop at an estate sale and there it sat. It's been several years since I've found one out in the wild. It runs beautifully. I assume it has been restored at some time? Found in Kennesaw, GA
    2 points
  26. Emerson Screw In Motor Plate Grommet Adapter - Antique Fan Supply Co (antiquefanparts.com)
    2 points
  27. I thought I would never see Jim Funk's last blade patent assigned to Reynolds Electric of Chicago filed in 1940. For those that don't know James Funk designed cast aluminum blades used by Airmaster/Diehl and Marathon circulators. Funk passed early in life at age 48 from what appears to be liver disease from alcoholism. His blade patent design to Reynolds would have been his last. 1498402039060494066-D0131699 (storage.googleapis.com)
    2 points
  28. Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy... But,... what is usually found when one chases a wild goose to the bottom of rabbit hole... A cold shower would've done the same thing.
    2 points
  29. Itā€™s finally here, safe and sound. The Old Forum is preserved for posterity! Special thanks to Larry, Jamie, Stan and the board for making this a reality!! I was happy to play a small part in this opportunity.
    2 points
  30. Hunnert thou - 4= 96 thou profit !!!?????
    2 points
  31. Hard to believe Dayton was still building them like tanks late teens. Your fan dates no earlier than 18, and it looks like it was made in the first decade+ of the 20th century. Dayton stuck to their marketing propaganda that the pizza wing blades were more efficient well into the 20s. šŸ™‚ This 12' Dayton type 67 was on the market same time as your 9". Cast iron struts, motor housing, and base. Boat anchor.
    2 points
  32. 3 weeks until Fanapalooza II...If you are planning on coming please let me know. Everyone is welcome and last minute is fine, however, number of people coming helps plan food. No need to reply if you are already on the list above....remember Fully stocked bar Endless Spotted Cow On-site chef Door Prizes Galore Luke Combs and just added Bull Riding!!!
    2 points
  33. Saw this, it's smaller than the normal one's I've seen or at least I think it is
    2 points
  34. June 13,14,15.
    2 points
  35. Itā€™s either engraved or possibly was in the casting mould.
    2 points
  36. Test your knowledge, or just enjoy the view.....
    2 points
  37. Oil tube to bearing on the cover.
    2 points
  38. Through the mouth of one who wears it .
    2 points
  39. If you have a gun setup, try shooting PPG ESSS series single stage Polyurethane. Their Jet Black is an exact match for Japan.
    2 points
  40. Man it always amazes me how ā€œnot really blackā€ most black paints are when compared to Japan. I use that gloss protective enamel someā€¦itā€™s great stuff but takes soooo long to dry. Been using black lacquer a lot though for the fast dry tones like on Emerson gear boxes and collars and such. Mostly I ise one shot lettering enamel, mostly for small in-painting touch ups like on bases, but I did use it in a touchup gun and painted an entire base once and it looked amazing. Laid down great. And you really have to be looking at it just right to see thatā€™s itā€™s not the same as the Japan. (Pic- base one shot, motor original Japan)
    2 points
  41. Very Interesting but stupid.mp4
    2 points
  42. Good comparison Jim. All of them look different depending on lighting and the camera you use. Especially Charleston. By the way, I've tried other "Charleston Green" colors from one or 2 other manufacturers and they're not very close at all. If you have spraying equipment and want to work with automotive paints. I have an exact color match through a local paint supply house in polyurethane paint. They will ship it to you with the necessary additives via a phone order. The company is BAPS Auto Paint Supply in York, PA. Just call them and tell them it's "GE Brass Bell Green" and tell them that the mix formula is filed under "AFCA". They have a handful of other colors too that I've had color matches. Their paint guy is incredible with his matching abilities. He even matches the original sheen. .
    2 points
  43. Psst, the "transformer" is called a speed coil or choke. It takes a while to learn all of the terminology. The "slower running speed" and quieter operation of the hospital fans is due to the 6 pole stator and slower overall operating speeds. Not due to the speed coil. Also, to some degree, the speed coil and stator are generally matched, and it's best practice not to mix and match stators and rotors, since normally this doesn't work to a good outcome. Keep in mind that the speed coil only affects med and low speed. In high speed, the speed coil is out of the circuit. Hope that helps.
    2 points
  44. 2 points
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