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Roger Borg

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So, as useful as I find the old forum, a lot of the information is scattered and fragmented among many different posts.

In the interest of consolidating info, I'm hoping to post all my questions about this fan in the same thread. Hopefully it will be a useful resource to someone other than myself down the road.

That said, initial questions:

-what was the original cord from motor to switch, and switch to plug? Was it black overbraid? 

-my readings for the motor are 23.4 ohms. Proper readings?

-between high and low on the choke is 1.3 ohms. Correct?

If you have this fan in original condition, please share photos.

Thanks everyone...

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Some more questions:

-the female centrifugal start was completely missing from the rotor. Can I push start the blade to test the motor. I would like to make sure all is good with the fan before buying Jerry's new assembly.

-were all 12" emerson centrifugal starts identical over the years and through the models? Meaning can I borrow one off of another fan to test the 11666?

Thanks again...

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This is the first centrifugal fan I've had apart, so another question pertaining to that.

-Is there a method to test the male portion?

I have a nick in the stator windings that I'm currently repairing, so don't want to power anything yet.

That said, would i test the two male halves for ohms readings? Would I (eventually) power it and test for voltage at each half?


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There really isn't a failure mode on the male portion with the exception of wear from the female portion where they contact.  To test your stator simply connect the two copper male halves with a jumper wire with alligator clips.  That completes the circuit and then you can check the stator's resistance. 


Dan H.

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Hi Dan, thanks for the info.

I got ohms readings at the headwire without arcing across the male centrifugal halves. (See first post in thread). 

I will jump them and see what new readings are.

But if i had readings prior without doing the aforementioned, what would that be indicative of?

The only part of the fan i haven't broken down yet is the rear case and c. switch. I wonder if there is an uninsulated bare c. switch wire touching the back case, and that is why the circuit was completed without jumping the two halves together. 

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Thanks for the info! Using tags is a huge benefit to this forum. That way we don't have to comb throug years of threads. 

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Hi Tristan-

Will absolutely do that if I can figure out how. Pointers for an illiterate tagger would be appreciated...

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Following Dan's comment, I wrapped the male portion with bare copper wire to bridge the halves. Same ohms reading as before it was jumped together. Tested at back of case. Very short leads right now.

Haven't pulled the stator and male portion yet, but that's my next step. Unsure why i got identical reading before and after as per previous advice.

Any feedback on this issue and previous questions would be greatly appreciated.

Hoping to gather some steam and make some progress. Thanks...



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  • 4 weeks later...

Broken start winding has been repaired.

Would like to confirm the following readings are in line with where they should be. Thanks...

Start: 47.2 ohms

Run: 23.4 ohms

Choke: 1.3 ohms

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