Emerson 14646

[Tim Babcock]

Started to tear down an Emerson 14646. I got continuity on the head but when I pulled the stater out some of the wires were broken. Its an old break. And there was a silver wire soldered on from one point of the windings to another. I think someone tried to jump the broken area of the windings. Not sure if I should part this one out or have the stater rewound, or look for a donor. The switch and coil were also missing. I am not sure of the year but would like to have some idea. It was running with the cord going directly to the head. but its not right and would never be right with broken windings. Any advice on this one helpful.

 

Edited September 27, 2024 by Tim Babcock

[Patrick Ray]

I've had instances where the stator has a break in it and repaired it by jumping the break. As long as it was a good repair, I'd roll with it. 

[Tim Babcock]

6 minutes ago, Patrick Ray said:

I've had instances where the stator has a break in it and repaired it by jumping the break. As long as it was a good repair, I'd roll with it. 

OK I will give it a shot. That way I will only need to source a switch assembly.

[Patrick Ray]

Hit up Chris Campbell for the switch. 

[Paul Carmody]

I agree with Patrick on jumping the break.Ive done it before with no problem.I always coat the repair with varnish to tie it down and seal the repair.

[Tim Babcock]

3 hours ago, Paul Carmody said:

I agree with Patrick on jumping the break.Ive done it before with no problem.I always coat the repair with varnish to tie it down and seal the repair.

I was going to coat the windings with red winding varnish. I hope this works. It was running so it should hopefully. Thanks for the help.

[Tim Babcock]

I don't know. the windings on this are so bad. My guess is it was running but not really well. Here is a photo of the stater windings. I would not really trust this set up. The more I look at it the less I like it. Is there anyone who rewinds these stator's? Or would it be best to find a donor. If so anyone know of the cross overs that may work out of other Emerson fans? Otherwise the fan is coming along nicely.

[Russ Huber]

2 hours ago, Tim Babcock said:

Anyone know of the cross overs that may work out of other Emerson fans? 

I wouldn't get my undies in a bunch over that one. I am not 100% on this, but I bet the 12" type stators stationary or oscillating up to the 29646 would slide in your housing. If the stator bolt hole spacings remained standard, you got it nipped in the bud. 🙂

[Tim Babcock]

1 hour ago, Russ Huber said:

I wouldn't get my undies in a bunch over that one. I am not 100% on this, but I bet the 12" type stators stationary or oscillating up to the 29646 would slide in your housing. If the stator bolt hole spacings remained standard, you got it nipped in the bud. 🙂

Thanks, Russ, in the lot I bought there was a 29646 I bought for parts. Hopefully that stater is a good one.

[Russ Huber]

17 minutes ago, Tim Babcock said:

In the lot I bought there was a 29646 I bought for parts. Hopefully that stater is a good one.

9 chances out of 10 it will be good. I am the only one that buys one and gets the 1 chance out of 10 dysfunctional model, so you should be in luck. The real good news...If the stator fits, you can use the speed coil from the 29646 and bolt it down on the earlier switch body if you can find a donor. Maybe Chris Campbell has the switch body repop with lever.

[Geoff Dunaway]

   One thing to consider... the 14646 choke coil ran the 14646 stator perfectly, but isn't necessarily fully compatable with a 29646 stator. I would use the switchcoil from the 29 with the stator of 29 and the coil mounts good on the 14646 ceramic plate. I've done this before with a 29 & 14646 irons & it made for a great running older fan. Rotors seemed to be readily interchangeable. Hope this is useful info....

[Thomas Newcity]

I recently picked up a very nice 14646, but stator and speed control were beyond repair.  Replaced with my own rebuilt 29646 stator and matching speed control choke.  Worked perfectly.  

[Thomas Newcity]

4 minutes ago, Thomas Newcity said:

I recently picked up a very nice 14646, but stator and speed control were beyond repair.  Replaced with my own rebuilt 29646 stator and matching speed control choke.  Worked perfectly.  

Opps......Didn't see Geoff's post.  But we are on the same page.  

[Russ Huber]

On 9/26/2024 at 9:13 PM, Tim Babcock said:

The switch and coil were also missing.

 

The last 6 posts previous to this post for most part share the same approach. What Tim may have a problem with is gaining a switch body to put the 29646 choke on. His switch and coil were both missing. Hopefully he has or can get help to gain one.

Edited September 28, 2024 by Russ Huber

[Tim Babcock]

I went to the shop today and was looking through the fans I bought. I found a very similar fan. Its a 19646 3 wire head just like the 14646. It has a switch and the stater. I may use this one to get the 14646 done and over time look for a switch and head for the 19649.

[Chris Campbell]

3rd common plate - 14/16/19/21 should all have same porcelain switch plate…. Maybe even 17 but not certain. This is when the intermediate brass bumps were added to lift lever in transition from one speed to another.  Some will be white and others painted black. Two feet  for phenolic paper cover.

 

2nd common plate is the somewhat similar 11/12 series which has feet and also accepts phenolic insulator. 12 series is one speed with two contacts bridged. 11 series is 2 speed.

 

Earliest is the 2 speed simple design found on earlier ornate  fluted bases. PI241, 910, 1010, 1310, 1510, Trojan Pancakes. Slight alteration found on early PI241 with one additional contact for engaging start winding. 
*Note*1015/16 and 1115/16 series DC uses a totally different plate vs AC counterpart since they are 3 speed and hold square mica for resistance wire.

Edited September 30, 2024 by Chris Campbell

[Tim Babcock]

On 9/29/2024 at 7:32 PM, Chris Campbell said:

3rd common plate - 14/16/19/21 should all have same porcelain switch plate…. Maybe even 17 but not certain. This is when the intermediate brass bumps were added to lift lever in transition from one speed to another.  Some will be white and others painted black. Two feet  for phenolic paper cover.

 

2nd common plate is the somewhat similar 11/12 series which has feet and also accepts phenolic insulator. 12 series is one speed with two contacts bridged. 11 series is 2 speed.

 

Earliest is the 2 speed simple design found on earlier ornate  fluted bases. PI241, 910, 1010, 1310, 1510, Trojan Pancakes. Slight alteration found on early PI241 with one additional contact for engaging start winding. 
*Note*1015/16 and 1115/16 series DC uses a totally different plate vs AC counterpart since they are 3 speed and hold square mica for resistance wire.

I found a 19646 in my group of fans I bought at the auction. I am pulling parts as I go to make one complete fan before moving on. So here is the fan finished from parts on hand. I used the 6 blade fan off the 19. Maybe that is the difference between the 19 and 14. The label is screwed on. I tap the holes out to 4-40 machine screws. So if so I may trade plates out to keep it all the same. Thanks for the help on this one. up next is a 6 blade star AOU 16 inch

Edited October 3, 2024 by Tim Babcock

[Michael Rathberger]

19 = type/series

6 = cycles 60

4= number of blades

6 = blade size

 

19646. 19 series 60 cycle 4 blade 12" fan.

Is the 6 wing hub cast? Regardless, motor may it last pushing the 6 blades.

Edited October 3, 2024 by Michael Rathberger
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