Jim Roadt Posted November 7, 2024 Posted November 7, 2024 It's a miracle.....picked this up for next to nothing in non working order. Now working and ready for mirror-like shine Has attachment for belt, possibly sewing machine 1 Quote
Russ Huber Posted November 7, 2024 Posted November 7, 2024 17 minutes ago, Jim Roadt said: Picked this up for next to nothing in non-working order. Now working. Pretty proud of yourself, aren't ja. The fan attachment and guard were sold separately. Good luck on that one. 🙂 Quote
Michael Rathberger Posted November 7, 2024 Posted November 7, 2024 The guard and blade show up now and then. I picked one in an off category on ebay several years ago. Scott owns it now I think. Quote
Scott Jeffrey Posted November 7, 2024 Posted November 7, 2024 Yes sir that is correct. Ironically the one to the right came from Jim at Indy fan fair quite a few years ago. 2 Quote
Jim Roadt Posted November 7, 2024 Author Posted November 7, 2024 7 hours ago, Scott Jeffrey said: Yes sir that is correct. Ironically the one to the right came from Jim at Indy fan fair quite a few years ago. Ahhhh that's where it went. Looks great there Quote
Jim Roadt Posted December 2, 2024 Author Posted December 2, 2024 Trevor Andersen does great work on motor tags of all kinds. Two colors on one tag must be difficult to do Thanks Trevor 2 Quote
Jim Kovar Posted December 3, 2024 Posted December 3, 2024 On 11/6/2024 at 8:06 PM, Russ Huber said: Russ, where do you get the pink finger cots? Quote
David Kilnapp Posted December 3, 2024 Posted December 3, 2024 Great find Jim. One of our fine members, loaned me a cage and blade from his Hamilton Beach and another loaned me the badge. I sent the badge to Don Colman who reproduced it perfectly (amazing guy). I sent the cage and blade to Bill Dunlap and he reproduced them for me. I bet Bill would do the same for you (he's such a good guy). Below is the my motor with the repop blade, cage and badge. 3 Quote
Jim Roadt Posted December 3, 2024 Author Posted December 3, 2024 mine has already been gifted away Quote
George Durbin Posted December 3, 2024 Posted December 3, 2024 I have several of these motors! I need to get some cages and blades! 1 Quote
Russ Huber Posted December 3, 2024 Posted December 3, 2024 22 minutes ago, George Durbin said: I have several of these motors! I need to get some cages and blades! But, I bet you don't have the Commander. 🙂 1 Quote
Russ Huber Posted December 3, 2024 Posted December 3, 2024 37 minutes ago, Jim Roadt said: actually lost both Lost them on the buffing wheel? I'll look around. I could have sworn I had a HB junker vibrator. 1 Quote
Jim Roadt Posted December 3, 2024 Author Posted December 3, 2024 1 hour ago, Russ Huber said: Lost them on the buffing wheel? I'll look around. I could have sworn I had a HB junker vibrator. were missing from the start, Quote
Russ Huber Posted December 3, 2024 Posted December 3, 2024 2 hours ago, David Kilnapp said: Love that "Commander" motor tag! David, it appears to be HB product (Osius motor patent # on the tag) marketed through a Sear's trademark name "Commander". It is complete, has a healthy motor and commutator, and runs fine. I can't locate another with the Commander tag on the web. If interested in it, message me. 1 Quote
Trevor Andersen Posted December 3, 2024 Posted December 3, 2024 (edited) 23 hours ago, Jim Roadt said: Trevor Andersen does great work on motor tags of all kinds. Two colors on one tag must be difficult to do Thanks Trevor No problem. Two colors aren't too bad as long as it has an area self contained by a recess in the design. I sponge denatured alcohol on the high parts of smaller spaces and then quickly drip the color in to fill it and then use fine hobby q-tip to soak up any stray paint. Then when it dries it gets softly sanded with around 4500 grit sanding pads. The big Evinrude badge was actually harder to do because it has such large open spaces it doesn't allow for good even wiping and sanding without dipping down into the painted part. I had to air brush it several times but still didn't get as dark as I wanted. Edited December 3, 2024 by Trevor Andersen 3 Quote
David Kilnapp Posted December 3, 2024 Posted December 3, 2024 Trevor: That's a terrific job on that motor tag. I appreciate the tips you gave on how to do it. 1 Quote
Trevor Andersen Posted December 6, 2024 Posted December 6, 2024 So does anyone have experience using a bridge rectifier, half-wave diode etc on one of these universal motors and know what I'd need? They run a bit hard on 120v AC and I don't want to keep my variac attached to it. I suppose I could also turn an old laptop power supply into a DC outlet but what specs would that need? I made one for a 32v DC R&M once. Quote
Russ Huber Posted December 6, 2024 Posted December 6, 2024 (edited) 1 hour ago, Trevor Andersen said: So does anyone have experience using a bridge rectifier, half-wave diode. The full wave bridge rectifier will only convert AC wave form to DC wave form. You will still need some form of speed control. The half-wave diode simply used in line to the motor on the other hand not only will rectify (change AC to DC current) the AC wave form, but it will also in turn to some degree slow down the SMALL universal or DC brushed motors. The half-wave diode emits pulsating DC current at supersonic unnoticeable speed, thus slowing the motor. I have clocked a 6" polar cub running at 3700 RPM with my strobe. The half-wave diode inline to same motor slowed the fan down to roughly 3000 RPM. The half-wave diode is best effective on small fan motors of 8-9" diameter blade or less. Edited December 6, 2024 by Russ Huber 1 Quote
Russ Huber Posted December 6, 2024 Posted December 6, 2024 (edited) Frederick Osius patented (filed in 1915) the resistance wire speed switch used in the 1916+ Hamilton Beach 8" desk and bracket fans. This same design speed switch was used for controlling the Sew EZ sewing machine motors, only operated on different principle. One could actually make a separate speed control in vented heat-resistant box by modifying the sewing machine motor control switch to be operated by knob or lever switch. You could also use a modern fan speed control switch or variable transformer. Edited December 6, 2024 by Russ Huber Quote
Trevor Andersen Posted December 7, 2024 Posted December 7, 2024 (edited) 12 hours ago, Russ Huber said: The full wave bridge rectifier will only convert AC wave form to DC wave form. You will still need some form of speed control. The half-wave diode simply used in line to the motor on the other hand not only will rectify (change AC to DC current) the AC wave form, but it will also in turn to some degree slow down the SMALL universal or DC brushed motors. The half-wave diode emits pulsating DC current at supersonic unnoticeable speed, thus slowing the motor. I have clocked a 6" polar cub running at 3700 RPM with my strobe. The half-wave diode inline to same motor slowed the fan down to roughly 3000 RPM. The half-wave diode is best effective on small fan motors of 8-9" diameter blade or less. So if I got a modern fan speed control and used a half wave diode would I put the diode on one side of the AC line coming into the speed control or after the speed control? Or is there any point to that I guess as the speed control will slow it down anyway. I just prefer running these universal motors and fans on DC if I can. Then I guess that leads me to whether the speed control will work with DC coming into it from a diode. Edited December 7, 2024 by Trevor Andersen Quote
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