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Posted

It's a miracle.....picked this up for next to nothing in non working order.  

Now working and ready for mirror-like shine  Has attachment for belt, possibly sewing machine20241106_193358.thumb.jpg.b4fd5fce60ccc366c41ee16a1ccc3159.jpg20241106_193406.thumb.jpg.357a2c0cf2b445a19ac2b1fcae005582.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
17 minutes ago, Jim Roadt said:

Picked this up for next to nothing in non-working order.  

Now working.

Pretty proud of yourself, aren't ja.  The fan attachment and guard were sold separately. Good luck on that one. 🙂

Posted

The guard and blade show up now and then. I picked one in an off category on ebay several years ago. Scott owns it now I think.

Posted

Yes sir that is correct. Ironically the one to the right came from Jim at Indy fan fair quite a few years ago. 

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  • Like 2
Posted
7 hours ago, Scott Jeffrey said:

Yes sir that is correct. Ironically the one to the right came from Jim at Indy fan fair quite a few years ago. 

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Ahhhh that's where it went.  Looks great there 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Trevor Andersen does great work on motor tags of all kinds.  Two colors on one tag must be difficult  to do

Thanks Trevor20241130_130408.thumb.jpg.65cca629227736fad15298f443a7c9cf.jpg20241202_143848.thumb.jpg.df174f7ea38145d07cf53f2baccb00df.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
On 11/6/2024 at 8:06 PM, Russ Huber said:

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Russ, where do you get
the pink finger cots?  wondering.gif.f50a591a962922a4ad7c4cdc6ba97ed5.gif

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Posted

somewhere 

  • Haha 1
Posted

Great find Jim. One of our fine members, loaned me a cage and blade from his Hamilton Beach and another loaned me the badge. I sent the badge to Don Colman who reproduced it perfectly (amazing guy). I sent the cage and blade to Bill Dunlap and he reproduced them for me. I bet Bill would do the same for you (he's such a good guy).

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Below is the my motor with the repop blade, cage and badge.

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  • Like 3
Posted

mine has already been gifted away

Posted

actually lost both20241107_161943.thumb.jpg.d43234dffc98148dfb30afa01cf97a03.jpg

Posted

I have several of these motors! I need to get some cages and blades!

  • Like 1
Posted
22 minutes ago, George Durbin said:

I have several of these motors! I need to get some cages and blades!

But, I bet you don't have the Commander. 🙂

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  • Like 1
Posted
37 minutes ago, Jim Roadt said:

actually lost both20241107_161943.thumb.jpg.d43234dffc98148dfb30afa01cf97a03.jpg

Lost them on the buffing wheel? I'll look around. I could have sworn I had a HB junker vibrator.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Russ Huber said:

Lost them on the buffing wheel? I'll look around. I could have sworn I had a HB junker vibrator.

were missing from the start,  

Posted
2 hours ago, David Kilnapp said:

Love that "Commander" motor tag!

David, it appears to be HB product (Osius motor patent # on the tag) marketed through a Sear's trademark name "Commander". It is complete, has a healthy motor and commutator, and runs fine. I can't locate another with the Commander tag on the web. If interested in it, message me. 

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  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, Jim Roadt said:

Trevor Andersen does great work on motor tags of all kinds.  Two colors on one tag must be difficult  to do

Thanks Trevor20241130_130408.thumb.jpg.65cca629227736fad15298f443a7c9cf.jpg20241202_143848.thumb.jpg.df174f7ea38145d07cf53f2baccb00df.jpg

No problem. Two colors aren't too bad as long as it has an area self contained by a recess in the design. I sponge denatured alcohol on the high parts of smaller spaces and then quickly drip the color in to fill it and then use fine hobby q-tip to soak up any stray paint. Then when it dries it gets softly sanded with around 4500 grit sanding pads. The big Evinrude badge was actually harder to do because it has such large open spaces it doesn't allow for good even wiping and sanding without dipping down into the painted part. I had to air brush it several times but still didn't get as dark as I wanted. 

Edited by Trevor Andersen
  • Like 3
Posted

Trevor:  That's a terrific job on that motor tag. I appreciate the tips you gave on how to do it.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

So does anyone have experience using a bridge rectifier, half-wave diode etc on one of these universal motors and know what I'd need? They run a bit hard on 120v AC and I don't want to keep my variac attached to it. I suppose I could also turn an old laptop power supply into a DC outlet but what specs would that need? I made one for a 32v DC R&M once. 

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Trevor Andersen said:

So does anyone have experience using a bridge rectifier, half-wave diode.

The full wave bridge rectifier will only convert AC wave form to DC wave form. You will still need some form of speed control. The half-wave diode simply used in line to the motor on the other hand not only will rectify (change AC to DC current) the AC wave form, but it will also in turn to some degree slow down the SMALL universal or DC brushed motors. The half-wave diode emits pulsating DC current at supersonic unnoticeable speed, thus slowing the motor. I have clocked a 6" polar cub running at 3700 RPM with my strobe. The half-wave diode inline to same motor slowed the fan down to roughly 3000 RPM. The half-wave diode is best effective on small fan motors of 8-9" diameter blade or less.

 

Edited by Russ Huber
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

Frederick Osius patented (filed in 1915) the resistance wire speed switch used in the 1916+ Hamilton Beach 8" desk and bracket fans. This same design speed switch was used for controlling the Sew EZ sewing machine motors, only operated on different principle. One could actually make a separate speed control in vented heat-resistant box by modifying the sewing machine motor control switch to be operated by knob or lever switch. 

You could also use a modern fan speed control switch or variable transformer.   

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Edited by Russ Huber
Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, Russ Huber said:

The full wave bridge rectifier will only convert AC wave form to DC wave form. You will still need some form of speed control. The half-wave diode simply used in line to the motor on the other hand not only will rectify (change AC to DC current) the AC wave form, but it will also in turn to some degree slow down the SMALL universal or DC brushed motors. The half-wave diode emits pulsating DC current at supersonic unnoticeable speed, thus slowing the motor. I have clocked a 6" polar cub running at 3700 RPM with my strobe. The half-wave diode inline to same motor slowed the fan down to roughly 3000 RPM. The half-wave diode is best effective on small fan motors of 8-9" diameter blade or less.

 

So if I got a modern fan speed control and used a half wave diode would I put the diode on one side of the AC line coming into the speed control or after the speed control? Or is there any point to that I guess as the speed control will slow it down anyway. I just prefer running these universal motors and fans on DC if I can. Then I guess that leads me to whether the speed control will work with DC coming into it from a diode. 

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Edited by Trevor Andersen

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