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Balancing a Tank rotor questions


Doug Wendel

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I’m balancing this Westinghouse tank rotor. It’s a tiny bit heavy on one side.   My question: is it better to drill out some material on the heavy side of the rotor, or is it better to add a glob of something to the light side to balance it? Follow up: If you use a glob of stuff what is the best material and how have you done that?

Thanks!image.thumb.jpeg.c210f00baa06b5ffdb583a3a23ea4af6.jpeg

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My question would be why it is now unbalanced after having been balanced at the factory. Always a chance it wasn’t done right at the factory, but I think that’s a rare chance. 

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Positive that rotor shaft is not bent?   Centrifugal switch assembly causing out of balance?  Is still out of balance with switch assembly removed?

Possible ways to balance:

Solder on ends of rotor add or remove...

Add solder to switch assembly brass.

Add steel or lead shim under switch assembly.

Happy Fanning Doug!

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I redid a Northwind and the rotor that I believe balanced from the factory,placed in a slot,on the rotor,a slinder piece of brass. They then peened the edge of the slot slightly on both ends to hold it in place.It wasn't tacked at all.It's still in there and running perfect.

I haven't tried it.Just an observation. 

 

Edited by Paul Carmody
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1 hour ago, Dave Hoatson said:

Any blade imbalance will be much more of a problem. Perhaps mount the blade and check the balance of the whole rotating assembly. 

I would agree with Dave on this. I would balance an assembly, not just individual parts. When balancing an engine (which is way more mass at higher RPMs), the crankshaft is balanced along with the damper, flexplate/flywheel, and sometimes even the crank pulley. This is blanching a "rotating assembly" in engine terms. Mounting blades on a rotor with the centrifugal parts attached would be the fan's rotating assembly. 

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21 hours ago, David A Cherry said:

The factory would’ve used a drill...

Back then,...   no,...
but nowadays,...   yes.

Armature.jpg.517d4471ba63aeef9c5e246df8a7228b.jpg

Placement of holes
suggests dynamic
balancing...

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25 minutes ago, Chris Campbell said:


White Armature adds weight using a putty to armature windings. Maybe no room on your stator, but thought mention the approach.
 

Better to adjust with blade assembly attached. Easier and knocking down wing edges vs drilling into stator has risk limited to wings which are more replaceable

I would agree with the balance with blade too.But since you brought up the putty .

http://agaus.com.au/epoxy-resin-putty-balancing-electric-motors/

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Thanks, all.  Yes, I've tried it with and without the centrifugal switch assembly, and it is still out of balance (by about the weight of one #6 brass nut).  It's not much, maybe within factory spec, but enough to cause a little vibration.  I will most likely drill out the material, as I have done on other rotors in the past.  I will balance the blade and the full rotating assembly again once I get a blade secured.  My goal is to have both the rotor and blade assembly balanced separately, so they can be moved/swapped/replaced as needed without rebalancing.  

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