John Landstrom Posted October 11 Share Posted October 11 I’m sure some of you have run into this problem. I have a small 10” Diehl with an aluminum blade that has come loose on the hub. It’s evident that the blade was originally placed over the end of the hub and the hub was pressed to expand and hold the blade tight to it. When I got the fan it had a whiteish hard substance around the front of the hub which looked to me like gorilla glue that had foamed up when curing. When I stripped the paint off and soaked the blade in lacquer thinner it dissolved whatever was put there as a “fix”. Now the blade spins freely on the hub. I’ve tried to solder it with a small torch and flux solder, as well as flux and standard solder but nothing will stick or flow down into the area below the flared end of the hub to secure the blade. I didn’t super heat it fearing the aluminum blade would melt. Also, I don’t have anything close to a press to try and replicate what the factory did. Someone here has to have dealt with this situation and come up with a solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Michael Posted October 11 Share Posted October 11 Restaking it isn't the problem. The hoard of radiating fractures is. I'd replace the blade. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn Domingue Posted October 11 Share Posted October 11 Is it steel and aluminum you can't weld it. 2 different metals. Might be able to epoxy or some other 2 part adhesive. Glyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Kovar Posted October 11 Share Posted October 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Kovar Posted October 11 Share Posted October 11 Before applying the Loctite, degrease the area with a no-residue contact cleaner or brake cleaner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lane Shirey Posted October 11 Share Posted October 11 3 hours ago, Paul Michael said: Restaking it isn't the problem. The hoard of radiating fractures is. I'd replace the blade. Generally I’d suggest finding a socket that is the same size as the steel hub flange and place the socket on the flange with the other side of the hub on a vice heel. A few good whacks with a hammer on the socket will tighten the hub, but I agree with Paul that the stress fractures are a safety concern. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Landstrom Posted October 12 Author Share Posted October 12 I’m planning on trying all the above suggestions, though Lane I can’t readily picture your method. looking at it it lookes to me they had a “grommet” style seating shaft in a press. I get using a socket on the backside to stabilize the hub, but can’t picture what to use on the front side to compress the steel. I’ll keep thinking about the ideas. I’m also looking for my JB Weld tomorrow morning. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Lindsey Posted October 12 Share Posted October 12 I took a blade with the same issue by a engine machine shop and walked in. Guy asked what I needed and showed him, he took the blade, left for 2 minutes, came back and it was done. Said don't worry about it. Now that was a better blade than this one but for such a small task of basically one minute generally someone will do you a favor. Just an option. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Landstrom Posted October 13 Author Share Posted October 13 Thanks Anthony, we’ve got a few around here. I’ll give it a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lane Shirey Posted October 13 Share Posted October 13 (edited) On 10/11/2023 at 9:37 PM, John Landstrom said: I’m planning on trying all the above suggestions, though Lane I can’t readily picture your method. looking at it it lookes to me they had a “grommet” style seating shaft in a press. I get using a socket on the backside to stabilize the hub, but can’t picture what to use on the front side to compress the steel. I’ll keep thinking about the ideas. I’m also looking for my JB Weld tomorrow morning. The socket goes on the front of the blade, and the back of the blade hub rests on the vice or anvil. The hammer hits the socket on the front of the blade hub. Do some searching, this topic has been covered several times in the past with pictures. Hope that helps. Edited October 13 by Lane Shirey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Durbin Posted October 13 Share Posted October 13 Adding to this post I have discovered nearly all blades repaired with epoxies or other glues just do not hold up over time... The reason is a blade spinning at roughly 1500-1750-3500 rpm causes enough vibration to eventually come unglued so to speak... I have used a 1 ton press with a socket to crimp the blade back to the hub... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Landry Posted October 13 Share Posted October 13 6 hours ago, Lane Shirey said: The socket goes on the front of the blade, and the back of the blade hub rests on the vice or anvil. The hammer hits the socket on the front of the blade hub. Do some searching, this topic has been covered several times in the past with pictures. Hope that helps. I had to do that on my R&M, but mine was brass, had alot of meat showing on the front and it was able to be mashed back down. Not much there on his, but maybe a good whacking will expand it enough internally on the blade(?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Landstrom Posted October 13 Author Share Posted October 13 I did post a Wanted notice for anyone having a blade for a Diehl G-10-AJ17 that their willing to part with. Haven't heard back yet from anyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Babcock Posted October 27 Share Posted October 27 What I would do is two fold. I would tap the front of the fan blade and hub. Drill it, Tap the hole for a 6/32. Depending on how hard it is to do I would do 2 holes opposite each other to balance it out, and if it goes not bad I would do 4. A washer under the screw and then just before I put the screws in I would put JB weld under the hub. Screw in the screws and I bet it would last a long time. There is aluminum solder you could try but I would not want to heat the aluminum blade up much. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levi Mevis Posted November 14 Share Posted November 14 I'm having the same issue with an old Sears Kenmore 3-speed Reversable box fan where the blade has come loose on the hub shaft and so it just spins freely on the hub shaft and I've tried the socket method that Lane suggested and it didn't work and I think part of the problem is that the blade hub on my fan has a rubber dampening gromet between the blade and the hub shaft that has shrank/dried out over the years and the crimping won't hold and I've tried several types of adhesive on the hub (except for epoxy) and the blade would just come loose again from the hub over time, this is a 20" box fan by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Zapf Posted November 16 Share Posted November 16 CHECK WITH ROB DUFFY LEVI, HE HAS PERFECTED A METHOD OF REPAIRING BLADES WHERE THE RUBBER SPACER HAS DISINTEGRATED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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