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Help with applying spray Lacquer to brass


Malcolm MacGregor

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I’ve trying to lacquer brass blades lately. Trying to do more myself instead of paying someone to do the work.  I have not been pleased with my results. I have tried 2 different brands of quality lacquer; Mohawk and Nickolas. Both are clear lacquers however my results with both are not satisfactory. Both seem to have made the cleaned surface, which is very shiny, look more like a satin finish as opposed to clear. Here are 2 photos, the back side of the blade has been lacquered and has hat satin look.  The front side has not been lacquered and is much shinier. Am I applying to much ?  Is there a secret I’m missing?  It’s warm here, 70’s, Florida, and humid. I even used a heat gun to gently warm the brass prior to spraying. Just warm, not hot.

 

I tried spraying a junk brass wing I practice with.  I tried Rustoleum crystal clear enamel and it look great. Maybe that’s a better choice for me???  All tips and comments are appreciated very much.

Malcolm MacGregor

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You likely will be stripping the enamel before long. The enamel seems to trap moisture and the brass begins to tarnish under the enamel. I spray with a compressor and gun and found that lacquers need to be thinned rather dramatically in order for them to flow out. And the margin between flow out and runs and sags is very narrow. I thin at least 50/50 and perhaps even 60/40 thinner to lacquer in order to get it to flow out. Like Florida, blushing, or frosting of the lacquer is common here. Sometimes just allowing it to sit in the sun is enough, but some more heat, like a propane torch (set very low and far away) will work. When done right, it should be difficult to see that brass has been lacquered.

Edited by Bill Dunlap
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Just use something like the 1k clear from Duplicolor if you don't have a spraygun and compressor handy. I use the cheapo detail spray gun from Harbor Freight for my clear coats and like Bill said you really have to reduce it quite a bit for proper flow. I have a climate controlled spray booth and ventilation though so cans may be your best bet. There's nothing unique about clear lacquers for brass, it's really just how much money you want to spend to impress yourself because really no one else will notice, even the manufacturers. I almost always leave mine bare because I can re-polish them whenever I want or let them get a patina. Brass lacquer is kind of like the embalming fluid of our hobby and just like a dead body the brass doesn't care. 

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Hi this is Robert Brandon new member in the past I have found the Rust-Oleum crystal clear lacquer for newbie like me to be excellent I have tried others if I keep going back to Rust-Oleum in addition to Rust-Oleum makes a great product called Paint and Prime and multiple colors and I have used that on some of my fans .incredible results . The results have lasted years

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2 hours ago, Trevor Andersen said:

Brass lacquer is kind of like the embalming fluid of our hobby and just like a dead body the brass doesn't care. 

This should win quote of the day! 😆

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Eliminate all, properly polish your brass and enjoy natural oxidation (patina) over the years.

If you insist clear cote, watch for three major factors in applying clear cote, the temperature, humidity and sterile-clean brass surface...practice.   

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Thank you all!  I was thinking of leaving it just polished. I had it professionally buffed and then I applied “simichrome” polish and I was very pleased with the finish. I put the E27666 on a test run over last weekend, running it for about 10 hours in my garage. It was warm in Fla last weekend so why not burn it in, right?

Come Monday morning I was giving the blade a close look and all leading edges had tarnished over the weekend. Is it common to tarnish this quick?  This event is what makes me want to coat the blade. 

Malcolm MacGregor

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I have used Nicklaus for years, but I also have a humid environment. I tried all sorts of things including the recommendation from the late Monty Young to run the A/C in the truck wide open & put them in there immediately after shooting. I have found the best way for me is to spray the blades, then immediately use heat to stop the milking from the humidity. Immediately after shooting them, I get the heat gun on any area that has milked & heat just enough to get rid of the milking.

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I never used to clear lacquer my blades. Cages, yes, but not blades. The reason is that I couldn't get a decent finish. But with some practice, I've now got it down to at least half coming out so nice you can't tell they're lacquered. Now for the last 50%.

I run my fans, and when you do that in RH+50% like it is here all the time, you're going to get rapid oxidation. You could probably get a year between polishes in a place like Arizona.

I've been running a torch over my brass just before I spray, It doe a couple of things. First, it burns off any residual dust and second, a warmer surface quickly starts the drying process by flashing off some solvent leaving a tacky surface to lay on a heavier coat, preventing sags. It may also help with the blushing.

Cheers,

Bill

Edited by Bill Dunlap
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7 hours ago, Stan Adams said:

I have used Nicklaus for years, but I also have a humid environment. I tried all sorts of things including the recommendation from the late Monty Young to run the A/C in the truck wide open & put them in there immediately after shooting. I have found the best way for me is to spray the blades, then immediately use heat to stop the milking from the humidity. Immediately after shooting them, I get the heat gun on any area that has milked & heat just enough to get rid of the milking.

That's how I have done it.

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On 2/8/2022 at 11:58 AM, Bill Dunlap said:

I never used to clear lacquer my blades. Cages, yes, but not blades. The reason is that I couldn't get a decent finish. But with some practice, I've now got it down to at least half coming out so nice you can't tell they're lacquered. Now for the last 50%.

I run my fans, and when you do that in RH+50% like it is here all the time, you're going to get rapid oxidation. You could probably get a year between polishes in a place like Arizona.

I've been running a torch over my brass just before I spray, It doe a couple of things. First, it burns off any residual dust and second, a warmer surface quickly starts the drying process by flashing off some solvent leaving a tacky surface to lay on a heavier coat, preventing sags. It may also help with the blushing.

Cheers,

Bill

It's pretty humid here when I run mine and I just wipe the blades off every few weeks. I use Flitz Ceramic sealant though on the brass so maybe that is getting me more time.

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Trevor, I have used Flitz metal polish( comes in a tube like toothpaste). I like to use it on badges and motor tags because it helps restore paint. Many Brass polishes remove paint. I’ve learned the hard way. Can you be more specific on the Flitz ceramic product you used?  Thx,  Malcolm

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3 hours ago, Malcolm MacGregor said:

Trevor, I have used Flitz metal polish( comes in a tube like toothpaste). I like to use it on badges and motor tags because it helps restore paint. Many Brass polishes remove paint. I’ve learned the hard way. Can you be more specific on the Flitz ceramic product you used?  Thx,  Malcolm

This is the stuff. I put on a couple coats of it and buff very lightly by hand.

https://www.flitz.com/flitz-ceramic-sealant/Sealant_Sales_Panel_970x970__16375.1620757649.thumb.jpg.6bf12443ad31192503de941fac6890aa.jpg

 

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Malcolm, FWIW I asked my brass guy about your issues and he said in all his years the spray can lacquer never worked for him no matter how he tried to "cheat". He uses a compressor, spray gun and a ready-to-use pre-mixed lacquer.

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John,   I have come to that conclusion. And considering the time and effort it took to strip the lacquer off, and the acetone ate the paint on the hub, I won’t do it myself again. I’ll find a pro locally if at possible. In the meantime I’m going to try some Flitz sealer to help. The blade assembly looks great again. Now if my parts arrive this coming week I can finish that project 👍

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