All Activity

Note to self....."SLS Nylon 12" when ordering.

Turn knob on top hard right to engage.

No clue. This will be my second batch of gears. I made one for David Kilnapp to test. I do need to get more proficient with my gear software. Just not familiar with all them terminologies. So I eyeball it and measure with my caliper. Either way, them phenolic gears are brittle and crumble over time. Modern plastic should be much better.

It looks like it’s running smooth now without the blade anyway. Next, to figure out how the oscillator works.

Any idea of the gear from this RM will work? I don’t really know the model…but figure you might know. Gearbox seems similar to the moderne but I haven’t looked at it in a while.

Hmmm….need to get you one to copy for my colonial tab foot front oscillator lol. I’d bought one from Chad but the teeth were way too big and too few. Even though it came out of basiclly the same fan. So…I’m still gearless and oscillatorless in that fan. Lol

Wow. Absotively posilutely GORGEOUS. Well done!!!! The original badge looks great with it. That’s what they did….custom colors they did for multi fan orders often just got a French gray badge. So…your powdercoat leans more to the ivory hue (yeah there seems to have been a few shades some grayer and some more ivory) but with the painted blades the French gray badge totally works. Now… if you were to go with brass blades, then I think the nickel and French gray badge would look a little odd. I’d leave that one as is and find another. Bravo!!!!

30 teeths.

So are you saying that really shouldn’t be any grease on those two surfaces? Sort of like you wouldn’t want grease between your brake pad and rotor? I’ll have to dig out a lot of grease I guess. Lol

I will draw them up tomorrow. Contacted manufacturer to see what materials is best suited for plastic gears.

Sometimes you need more than one fibre washer. Try to center the stator by adding more if necessary. . If the blade bounces in and out while it's running add more.

Forgot who asked. I will draw them up. Get them either laser or waterjet. Make the mold for pressing into shape/angle.

Well this was a real learning experience for me, new to the hobby. The front bearing was snug, bearing itself free to move around. The back bearing was packed with crud, would not move at all. Cleaned the crud out so bearing could ‘float’, assembled and runs like new! Thanks guys for guiding me, this one was a great one to learn from.

First I’ve heard of Glyptal. Which product number will you use?

Both are designed for 12 inch blades. The one on the left is for crescent shape blade. The one on the right is for staggered pizza blade.

Thats normal but snug up the nut.

Seems tight, but that bearing kind of floats, I can move it around. Normal I assume?

I am attempting to remove the oscillator wheel on a 367 Dayton and am having some difficulty. Does the wheel have a friction pin or threaded pin to hold it on the shaft? He’s a photo of the pin and wheel.

Hi Eric, Due to manufacturing changes over the years, I always wind like for like, and attempt as well as possible to duplicate exactly what was original to the motor. I MAY add 10% more wire for modern line voltage, if the wire will fit the stator slots, which in most cases it will, as enameled magnet wire has a smaller OD than silk or cotton cloth insulated magnet wire. Unfortunately, I don't have any data for your fan, but an educated WAG would be 275-300 turns of 25 awg per coil. There is no direction of winding for a coil, think about it for a while. Yes, there is a beginning and end. or start and finish. The only thing that matters on coil polarity is that the coil connections are made from start to start, finish to finish, so that every coil has an opposite polarity to the one next to it. Start and finish of each coil will be how it is viewed, left lead, right lead. The actual start and finish of the coil makes no difference. I hope this helps.

Glad to help! If you ever find an older one. Like from the 70s and earlier, a teardown is slightly easier and even more fun to mess with.

T This one was indoors, so unlikely it's lived a hard life. By habit I'll tear a (desk) fan down completely (unless stamped steel), most only because I no longer trust what came before me. And being my first CF, thought it would be fun to take a run at it. But if no or little upside, happy to reallocate my time elsewhere, and let sleeping dogs lie. Thanks guys...

I'll try that next time I go to take it apart. Thanks for the tips

Due to the fact the Fan Collector Newsletter is coming out later than usual, the deadline to sign-up for Fan Fair has been extended to June 23. This is also the last day for discounted rooms at the host hotel. We cannot extend it any further as the numbers have to be turned in. We cannot guarantee T-shirt orders after June 18 postmark. Remember you must be an AFCA Member & Must be registered for Fan Fair to go to the Hunter Museum & facility or attend any of the events of Fan Fair. Guests are allowed in the Bourse. We will have a few extra T-shirts in the Fan Fair auction. Registration postmarked after June 23 must have the late fee included. Registration is allowed at the door with the late fee as well. So looking forward to seeing all of you in Memphis!

What a great find! And yes, you're right. They do have to be in a bad environment or really neglected to need a deep clean just to get it working.

The oil systems on those fans are typically really clean, unless they're outside because for some reason, that oil that Hunter used attracted bugs. I found this boat anchor in a basement recently. Rotor rusted to the shaft. Locked up tighter than a....well you know. Its reversible, and has its original switch in the bottom, so I wanted to test it without taking it apart because the spider web of cloth wiring in the nose will disintegrate when touched. I dripped some Kroil down the oil hole and let it sit. Then again, then again. Finally I moved the tried to break the rotor free and it moved slightly. So I Kroiled it again. Moved it again. Kroil. Basically I wanted to get oil down the whole shaft before I moved it. And it broke free. Then I filled the oil cup through the oil hole, spinning it by hand as I did to get more oil between the shaft and the rotor. Dumped it out. Filled it again. Did that 3 times before the oil was relatively clear. Powered it up and she spins great. Suprisingly almost no noise whatsoever. This fan will get a full teardown someday but for an initial test, this method works suprisingly well for clearing out the junk. 62815495-b059-4da9-a609-393f78456338.mp4