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A ventilating Fan company. Large fan.
Russ Huber replied to Steve Sherwood's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
Steve, I am not challenging you, but did you put a magnet to the housing to validate it is cast iron? -
A ventilating Fan company. Large fan.
Russ Huber replied to Steve Sherwood's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
Google full read books fade around 1928 now for the most part, and then go to book snippets. Each passing year Google full read books continue to expand. When it comes to the larger circulators, which for most part went full bloom starting in the 1930s forward, web access to old newspaper is an asset. Mike Kearns tediously over many years has compiled a huge stash of detailed circulator information far surpassing anything I have dug up. Mike wisely puts data and information to file. I don't. Robert's contribution may have pegged it. Steve's circulator may well be a Berns Air King product. But I am just speculating. I have seen in the flesh, but never purchased Berns Air King product. -
A ventilating Fan company. Large fan.
Robert Todd replied to Steve Sherwood's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
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I wondered about the start winding, but it’s odd to me the issue appeared all of a sudden. It wasn’t like the fan was taking longer to get up to speed, or trying harder and harder, etc. It worked just fine over and over, then the next time, bam. I’ll check the ohms tomorrow.
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I would check your ohms between the 3 head wires with said wires disconnected from the switch assembly. Shouldn't have to spin start your fan. Might have a bad start winding. Report your ohm combinations between the 3 head wires.
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Look what followed me home
Paul Carmody replied to Stan Adams's topic in Box Fans, Belt Drives, Circulators
That was a deal! -
A ventilating Fan company. Large fan.
Stan Adams replied to Steve Sherwood's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
Blades look Victor. Looks like one of those companies that bought parts & put them together. Figured you would go after that looking like an Eskimo. 😀 - Yesterday
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Fan design for 2024 (Vintage)
Bejon A. Boranian replied to Bejon A. Boranian's topic in Post-1950 (Vintage)
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Fan design for 2024 (Vintage)
Bejon A. Boranian replied to Bejon A. Boranian's topic in Post-1950 (Vintage)
...Result: Currently, it is just pressure fit together... ...for a more permanent build, a bit of glue will do. Badge is vented type, closed center. -
Fan design for 2024 (Vintage)
Bejon A. Boranian replied to Bejon A. Boranian's topic in Post-1950 (Vintage)
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Fan design for 2024 (Vintage)
Bejon A. Boranian replied to Bejon A. Boranian's topic in Post-1950 (Vintage)
...Let's make a quick badge today: Material: refuse plastic... Key component on this one caught my eye: (PICS) ...Carefully: remove and shape using an imaginary near 90 degree angle reference point. -
A ventilating Fan company. Large fan.
Steve Sherwood replied to Steve Sherwood's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
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A ventilating Fan company. Large fan.
Paul Carmody replied to Steve Sherwood's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
What does the back look like? -
A ventilating Fan company. Large fan.
Paul Carmody replied to Steve Sherwood's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
Neat fan!I really like the Art Deco badge. -
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Thanks for the quick response! I have a wiring diagram from a 24666 which I figured was the same as for the 19666, but I didn’t want to take a chance on sparks or a fire 😁 Unfortunately, the push start is still needed to get the blades spinning. At least the shock is gone 😉
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I’m pretty sure that is correct
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Todd Adornato started following Emerson 19666 loose wire
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Hi folks, I have an Emerson 19666 that ran just fine until recently. Now when I switch it on, it produces a humming noise but the blades don’t move. If I switch it to High and give the blades a push, it spins up and runs normally, but if I switch to Med or Lo, the blades slow down and stop. I also got a mild shock when I touched the metal surface on which the fan was sitting, and touched the fan with my other hand. I unplugged the power and removed the speed coil / switch assembly, and found a loose wire (yellow arrow). I’m not certain where it should go, but it has solder on it, so I figure it goes to the contact that also has solder on it (red arrow). Am I correct?
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Warren Electric & Specialty Company Peerless Bipolar Trivia 1899-01
Russ Huber replied to Russ Huber's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
The 1901 model bipolar motor tag sports a serial of 6,28?. Logic states the average desk fan motor manufacture in each of the 3 years the bipolar was on the market at roughly 2,000 models + or - per season. -
Warren Electric & Specialty Company Peerless Bipolar Trivia 1899-01
Russ Huber replied to Russ Huber's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
1901 appears to be the last manufacture season for the Warren Electric & Specialty Co. Peerless bipolar model. 1901 shows changes done to the bipolar model, those being 3 rivets per spider finger, 3 struts as opposed to two and bottom guard anchor to base. The casting appears to have been changed on the cast rear motor cover with open commutator exposure around the improved brush holders. The fan now appears to have an open ring guard of different construction. -
James Voss started following GE interchangeable parts?
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Are the parts from a GE 1925 AK and 1930-31 AE interchangeable with one another? haven't torn completely into them yet but i can see one has a brass oscillator gear and the other is not.. but mainly right now i plugged in the AE and the coil was smoking terribly, so i am just wondering if this and possibly other motor parts are completely identical internally?.... i'd rather not mix parts but if they are exactly the same i could get one going for now and address the bad coil later. i reckon i could also take them both apart and look for myself but thought maybe i could just ask and possibly learn something that isn't easily seen by someone with limited experience such as myself
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Who Can Identify the Fan Motor Used in the Patent Image?
Russ Huber replied to Russ Huber's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
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I'm thinking I need to get another hub and spider for this 29646 fan blade assy.? I did tighten the crush ring on hub to the spider with a socket wrench and 2 lbs hammer but my crush ring has chipped off pieces that are GONE. This is why I think electric welding that connection is the only way to secure what is there? I can't seem to post a photo here on the site, and would like to forward photos of my damaged hub to some ones phone of email for advice/guidance? Please let me know what I should do?
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I also want to add that as a guest here, I have no ability to edit my posts? When I press the ... on top right, only the word "SHARE" drops down?
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Members have informed me about members in New Orleans area, but none have joined in? I've had folks that are 60 miles from my home offer help but I'm thinking after all these weeks possibly I'm the only guest/member actually in this area? It's not that I need to shake hands or visit their home but local contacts for repairs is what I'm needing? I'm not getting any favorable hope on welding the crush ring on hub to spider?? As I'm driving around showing the blade assy. to strangers, they look like I'm asking them to weld the landing gear on the shuttle? I'm "dead in the water"!