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Anybody know if this fans front bearing is the same type as other small GE fans? Like this
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Westinghouse Vane Mechanical Variants
Jeff Rusnak replied to Nicholas Denney's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
Interesting variations on the Vane trip levers Nick.The more typical helical spring trip levers seem to be the most common.Ive never seen the knurled double helical spring setup, maybe the most uncommon type ? Then there’s the earlier phosphor bronze serpentine spring trip lever.Those seem to always be broke off and difficult to replace, thus the first picture where someone has ingeniously made a solid spring steel trip lever to replace a broken phosphor bronze serpentine trip lever.Ive been lucky enough to have a bronze trip lever for my 6 blade Federal vane graciously re popped to complete the fan.the Westinghouse Vanes are interesting fans and chatting with you at the meet about differences and tips on keeping them operating and oscillating was interesting and I’ve found the double helical spring trip levers to be very temperamental needing to be precisely adjusted compared to the phosphorus bronze serpentine trip levers.Ive got 3 vanes,the 2 double helical run ok be are temperamental, but the phosphorus bronze runs flawlessly never hesitating to oscillate.Adjustments are critical as are the blade RPMs. -
I LOVE THAT STUFF!!! Just takes a while to dry, but I love the way it lays out and the depth of gloss and the blackness. I've used both the rattle cans (really handy for painting cages) as well as buying the cans and spraying it through HVLP gun.
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What color is the oscillating fan?
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These are the photos I have!
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It is a Benjamin Moore product. Check with them for availability.
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It's pretty good. The high performance Gloss Black that comes in the silver can is basically the same thing with a larger nozzle and higher output per spray.
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Oil Buffing - The Frugal Expert's Hack
Trevor Andersen replied to Nicholas Denney's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
Yeah kerosene won't do anything generally even to the worst quality paint or japan. It just bonds to the grime and grease like the old oil does and let's it be wiped off. I use Krud Kutter and dawn dish soap only if I'm not using kerosene to clean paint. -
Oil Buffing - The Frugal Expert's Hack
Marc Sova replied to Nicholas Denney's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
I like the meguiars hot rims wheel cleaner for stubborn old grime on japan. Kind of caustic so you have to be very quick and careful on paint. I use my share of solvents but any time I can use something not so smelly I do. -
Oil Buffing - The Frugal Expert's Hack
Trevor Andersen replied to Nicholas Denney's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
Kerosene works good as well if you don't have old motor oil or a source. More flammable, but I always save food jars and dispose of rags in those with water. -
I saw this 'new' paint show up after a store remodel. Seems like it'll be good stuff.... any feedback yet?
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Pleasure as always to see you. So happy you were able to make it! Love to hear how happy everyone was and how smooth everything went. See you next month!!!
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Anyone know where to get this brand appliance epoxy? Can’t seems to find it in a google search. Maybe it’s not sold in the USA? Saw it posted on a fb group and the poster seems to have gone dark. I’m familiar with the brand having used some of their interior bonding primers and what not. But not seen this product before. The almond color seems to be a real good match for ivory fans AND more importantly it comes im gloss. Rustoleum appliance epoxy only seems to come in satin in Almond and Biscuit etc. Only black seems to come in gloss.
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Oil Buffing - The Frugal Expert's Hack
Marc Sova replied to Nicholas Denney's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
Yeah I generally don’t use it on paint certainly not on very old paint…sometimes on Emerson 77’s. And yeah…as the brown that comes off the rag is indicative of Japan/asphaltum being removed with the polish….its such a minimal amount I don’t think it’s not detrimental at all. At least not on the Japan on most Emerson’s. Maybe on some other brands where the Japan wasn’t quite as good. -
Hey, Larry! Hope this helps! your friend, Me 🤣🤣
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Or maybe I have that backwards and it’s the later ones that run slower and have more pitch lol.
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Oil Buffing - The Frugal Expert's Hack
Nicholas Denney replied to Nicholas Denney's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
As stated, I see the oil as advantageous in that it will leave paint alone. The rag will stay clean once the japan/paint is clean. All of the metal/wheel cleaners I know of will wear down paint while cleaning up heavy soils. The fact that it's free/cheap and universally available is an aside. -
Hey all, so something I’ve noticed is that some of the earlier AQI quiet blades I’ve had with earlier serial numbers, they seem to run slower on the first position of the 3 speed then later ones? Also they seemed to have more pronounced blade pitch and also run a little quieter. Is this something you have all noticed for the collectors of these types?
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Oil Buffing - The Frugal Expert's Hack
Marc Sova replied to Nicholas Denney's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
Well, I suppose it comports with the idea that like dissolves like. But for me a $10 jar of blue magic wheel polish will do several dozen fans and no need to wax afterwards. -
If you suspect the trumpet base was painted, you could’ve started polishing it to see if it was. Like I like to use blue magic wheel polish, and a light colored microfiber. If you see it coming off sort of blue black it’s paint. if brown, as you obviously know, it’s Japan. You can use acetone to clean up Japan. It doesn’t really remove it per se like it does paint, but if you worked it long enough with acetone, you would probably take it all the way down to bear metal. Because that brown that’s coming off on your rag with acetone, just like it does using a polish like blue magic, is essentially the Japan coming off
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Sure it’s not AK? Post a pic of the motor tag. There should be a tiny number by the lower right rivet. Add 20 to that and that is the year of manufacture. You need to always post pix if you’re trying to date
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Yes the 2.5 should be fine.
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God info on the head-wire. I have frequently wished there was a more flexible product on the market I did not know it actually existed! On the start capacitor subject: was unable to find a 2.7 mfd so ordered a 2.5 and a 3.0 so hope one of those will be close enough to kick the old APG Emerson to life without the high current draw or heat. Stand by as I will report results when these arrive.
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Looking for some washers and felt washer for a couple Emersons
Russ Huber replied to Ed Martin's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
Gotta love McMaster. You can snug rotor/armature end play on nearly ALL popular shaft sizes WITHIN 0 to 1/16".
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Looking for some washers and felt washer for a couple Emersons
Trevor Andersen replied to Ed Martin's topic in Pre-1950 (Antique)
Here's a list of common Emerson washers and the SKU from McMaster Carr. I think they come in pouches of like 25+ each.
