Dave McManaman Posted October 2, 2021 Share Posted October 2, 2021 I posted this on the AFCA FB page but with the new forum up and more user friendly, I thought it best to post here too. I'd sworn off 16" fans because of space issues, already having several, but this Robbins & Myers List 1159 came up for a song just an hours drive from me and off I went to take a look. Another old farmhouse fan found miles from anywhere. It has the standard R&M flag (it will be attached to the center of the cage but you can see it resting at the base) but is missing the motor tag, a strut to motor screw, and a shoulder screw to attach the oscillator arm to the disc. Otherwise, it looks complete and it tests out OK so far. Pretty dirty and I don't see much pinstriping on it as I think it may have had originally but I've been surprised by R&Ms in the past when I start cleaning just how much paint detail survives. So we'll see. It has the early model inverted grease cups both front and aft so I'm placing it around 1913. Any insight on this one, things to look out for etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Dunaway Posted October 2, 2021 Share Posted October 2, 2021 Don't understand the aerodynamics of blade anatomy but that 16" model if electrically intact sings a real soothing song running , far superior to the 12" model. Great find, underappreciated group of fans👍. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave McManaman Posted October 9, 2021 Author Share Posted October 9, 2021 Quick question to try and avoid making a dumb mistake. Does the post on this fan come off and, if so, how? There looks to be a place to get a wrench on it above the bearing sleeve up against the housing body but it's pretty narrow up there. Ideally, I could take it off and soak that assembly getting out all the old grease and better clean around the bottom of the case where it mounts as it's really got quite a buildup of residue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Robinson Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 Yes, you will need to grind down an open end wrench thin enough to fit in that narrow space. As I remember, I believe it takes a 5/8" end wrench. There is also a tiny set scew that you will have to loosen first. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Andersen Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 (edited) I have a set of these. Nothing fancy but works in stuff like this. Grip 7 pc Super Thin Wrench Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HZQW0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_GHYXVZ1Q3GEHGWWGH4A3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Also, here are the width of these wrenches so you can see if it might fit. 1-1/4” & 1-1/8" = 0.157"1-1/16" & 1” = 0.160”15/16” & 7/8” = 0.158”3/4” & 13/16” = 0.159”11/16" & 5/8” = 0.118”9/16” & 1/2” = 0.120”7/16" & 3/8” = 0.119" Also have this. I forget what size ranges. But it comes in handy. https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/hand-tools/wrenches/2401248?x429=true&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic-shopping&utm_campaign=organic-shopping Edited October 10, 2021 by Trevor Andersen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Kilnapp Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 I've removed these and honestly, it's not worth the effort. You can do a thorough job of cleaning the crud off the base of the case with a little effort, some clean rags and the right chemicals. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Kovar Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 6 hours ago, Trevor Andersen said: Super Thin Wrench Set Maybe a tappet wrench would be thin enough? It's been a long time since I've done any valve adjustments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave McManaman Posted October 10, 2021 Author Share Posted October 10, 2021 Thanks everyone for the suggestions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave McManaman Posted October 11, 2021 Author Share Posted October 11, 2021 Next order of business. I'm cleaning the hundred year old grease/tar/nicotine(?) from the inside and outside of this fan. Was amazed at how well the base and motor housing turned out. I'm now on to cleaning up the gear box. I was going to pull the gears as I've done with other fans but found the oscillator gear (vertical) is pinned so now I'm going to be content with scraping out what I can by hand and degreasing it with the gears in there. What is a good degreaser? I've used purple power before and have had some paint loss on weaker finishes. This R&M tank finish seems pretty hardy and has about 95% paint coverage so I've got no plans to strip/paint any of it. Thanks in advance for suggestions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Andersen Posted October 11, 2021 Share Posted October 11, 2021 6 minutes ago, Dave McManaman said: Next order of business. I'm cleaning the hundred year old grease/tar/nicotine(?) from the inside and outside of this fan. Was amazed at how well the base and motor housing turned out. I'm now on to cleaning up the gear box. I was going to pull the gears as I've done with other fans but found the oscillator gear (vertical) is pinned so now I'm going to be content with scraping out what I can by hand and degreasing it with the gears in there. What is a good degreaser? I've used purple power before and have had some paint loss on weaker finishes. This R&M tank finish seems pretty hardy and has about 95% paint coverage so I've got no plans to strip/paint any of it. Thanks in advance for suggestions! I use dish soap and water a lot of times. Kerosene also works well but if your paint is failing kerosene can cause it to take off some of the gloss. You can usually buff it back though. I've seen people use acetone and it seems to work but I haven't tried. I think its fine on really old paint jobs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave McManaman Posted October 11, 2021 Author Share Posted October 11, 2021 Thanks Trevor. I’ve been cleaning up the crud on the finish with acetone but just wiping with a cotton tshirt rather than emerging. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave McManaman Posted October 28, 2021 Author Share Posted October 28, 2021 Anybody know what kind of readings I should be getting off the three head wire combinations coming off the stator on a R&M List 1159? I'm to the point of varnishing the stator but don't want to get it installed and all the way down the road only to find out my numbers are out of whack. Thanks for any info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave McManaman Posted October 30, 2021 Author Share Posted October 30, 2021 (edited) After stabilizing the wires coming off the stator and connecting a new length of headwire, my readings for all three combinations are in the 22-23 ohm range which is consistent with what others report. Next up, the halo coil. But I’ve got another question - having to do with the grease cups. I’ve heard folks talk about using everything from Valvoline wheel bearing grease, to Vaseline, or even grease with some oil mixed in to thin it down a bit. What are those of you with these R&Ms using? Here’s a pic of the front and rear cups with little “swizzle” sticks. Edited October 30, 2021 by Dave McManaman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave McManaman Posted November 1, 2021 Author Share Posted November 1, 2021 Thanks Stan Adams and others for advice on the FB page regarding my question about what to use in the grease cups. I went with good old valvoline all purpose grease. Ran it a bit and it is coming along nice. Moving on to the halo speed coil. I believe it’s a nichrome wire wrapped asbestos for the halo. A little chipped on the edge but the nichrome seems undisturbed. Once I clean all the contacts, I’ll varnish it good to insulate it and reduce some of the chatter/hum and wire up the switch to the headwire and power cord. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave McManaman Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 (edited) All but done. Still need to source a motor tag and an original shoulder screw to the oscillator disc although the one I fabricated looks and works well. Runs nice on three distinct speeds, on high it’ll blow you over. On low, purrs low and slow. Here it is as it now sits. Edited November 16, 2021 by Dave McManaman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave McManaman Posted January 24, 2022 Author Share Posted January 24, 2022 Finally got the motor tag, from Chad's folks at AntiqueFanParts.com. All done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Stephens Posted January 24, 2022 Share Posted January 24, 2022 On 10/9/2021 at 12:06 PM, Dave McManaman said: Does the post on this fan come off and, if so, how? There looks to be a place to get a wrench on it above the bearing sleeve up against the housing body but it's pretty narrow up there. I got this one off of a damaged 1159 and found these photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lane Shirey Posted January 24, 2022 Share Posted January 24, 2022 Looks nice Dave! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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