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Success removing Emerson motor tag rivets.Without damage.


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Posted (edited)

Someone the other day was asking ,attempting  to remove the tag.I was trying to find the thread and gave up.

So here’s what you do.A long sharp punch.Mine is actually a Utility Punch Scriber before I’m corrected.I found out on the first one is if you go straight on the center it will mushroom the stud and it’s stuck.I came in at an angle and hit the outer edge of the stud and it knocked into the hole.At that point I just hit it straight on and they popped right out.The buggered hole to top left was my first attempt ,the rest came out clean

Thought I would pass that on.

Oh and I did it in my lap just like the pics.Not too hard but solid taps.

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Edited by Paul Carmody
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  • Paul Carmody changed the title to Success removing Emerson motor tag rivets.Without damage.
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

You make it look so doable!! This is something I need to do since the Japan is not worth saving on most of my Emerson 29646 but have been reluctant to try.

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Posted

Grind/modify the tip...

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Posted

I'll second the automatic center punch trick. I also use it to drive out blade rivets after I remove the flare from the backside of the rivet. 

Posted

I'll grind/modify a
       Harbor Freight,...

but not my Starretts!

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Posted (edited)

I did another in less than a minute.Its the long punch that is the trick.The tape is just to keep from losing rivets.Also undamaged.The rivets we’re longer on this one so I lightly tapped them flush before punch.

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Edited by Paul Carmody
Posted (edited)

The first one.

 

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Edited by Paul Carmody
Posted
8 hours ago, Patrick Ray said:

I'll second the automatic center punch trick. I also use it to drive out blade rivets after I remove the flare from the backside of the rivet. 

I’ll “third” that!

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Posted (edited)

I actually started with the center punch and it will and did wedge the rivets in harder if it doesn’t hit straight on with the limited space in the rear.Thats when I used the long punch.Jims method grinding to a point would work better  as far as the center punch I’m sure.

Different strokes.

Edited by Paul Carmody
Posted

I use a long punch that a ground the tip to a fine point.

Posted

Been using an old double ended pick for a while now.  I use the small 90 degree end first then the straight section. Works well with a small hammer.  I’ve also use a long punch I had that I heated and bent the end slightly to make the job easier.  I use the appropriate one for the size of the motor casing.   
 

 

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