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OK, here's a short video. I have the blade from my Verity's Junior on it and no cage. If it didn't have different watt readings between speeds, I couldn't tell the difference. So I used my Variac to adjust speed just for demonstration. It runs fine on standard voltage. Very smooth. This is the first C frame I've had in my shop. The gearbox is pure genius. For those who haven't seen them, there are only two gears, one inside the other, an eccentric mounted on the shaft with no fixed connection between the rotor shaft and gears. The center gear orbits inside the outer gear and processes one tooth per revolution dramatically reducing the rpm. A cross shaped piece connects the inner gear to the rotating arm with an oval cut out in the center. This oval serves also to control the motion of the eccentric. Just genius. The pin that connects the rotating arm to the C frame is actually a spring, which acts to prevent damage to the mechanism should it encounter an obstacle. It will just pop out of the groove. VID_20221125_141850758.mp4

Many fans and motors in the early 1900’s and maybe late 1800’s were designed to run on 104 volts. Running a 104 volt fan on modern 120 v will work, but stresses the motor. The increased voltage also increases the current. 104 -> 120 is a 15% increase. But, this also causes a 15% increase in current. Power = voltage x current. 1.15 x 1.15 = 1.32. So, the higher voltage causes the fan to use 32% greater power (and heat). Not good for a 115 year old rare fan. Sometimes, I simply plug the fan into the 120 v wall outlet, but only run the fan on Low. This uses the fan’s internal speed coil to drop the voltage down to around 108-112 v, depending on the fan. Relatively safe, but not optimum. Most collectors say to use a Variac. This is an autotransformer with a knob to set the output voltage. These are big, heavy, and can output voltage that is higher than the input, so accidentally turning the knob up can really stress or damage your fan. I have a small Variac, made by Superior Electric. It is designed for 115 v input. My house is 122 v. When you set the knob to 104 v, it actually outputs 111 v. Turned fully up, it outputs 143 v. So, to use this on a 104 v fan, you need to set it using a meter and ignore the dial. And, don’t ever turn the knob all the way up. I tested a KB Dial-a-Temp. $37. It can control the speed, but it is not regulated. With the fan off, it always puts out 120 volts. You can turn the fan on High and adjust it for 104 volts, but when you switch the fan to Low, the load is reduced, the voltage increases, and the fan speed dies not change. And, if the fan has a centrifugal start switch, the extra load during start causes the voltage to drop down into the 80’s, making starting unreliable. It’s a good way to slow down a 1920’s desk fan, but it cannot provide a steady 104 v. Next up is a UmiPower LX-500C. $63. It is designed to operate Japanese appliances in the US, so it outputs a regulated 100 v, close enough to 104 v to do the job. This works super well, with no issues, so that is what I’m going to use.

These little variac buggers are great if you can pick one up for peanuts. Compact and you can mount them in a decorative box.

Nice option. With electricity prices going up (it's 35 cents per KWH here) using less has manifold benefits. First of all, it's cheaper, but the fans usually run cooler, quieter with less vibration. In addition to that, your fans will last longer and need less maintenance. So, what's not to love? Cheers, Bill PS, I have battery operated fans as well, that I can charge with cheap solar chargers. We have routine power outages here, but I flatly refuse to live without a breeze readily available.

I could get one ohm reading from my 3-wire stator. It appears your stator is good. That is a major plus as that would be your most expensive repair. There are people here that can rewind your switch coil.

I am sorry, the reason I sold the fan for my purchase price was because the stator and coil had opens. So, giving you ohm readings is not possible, and the original wiring was no longer extending down and connected to the switch. I purchased the fan while traveling as is from a dealer. The risks we sometimes take. 🙂

I use a steering wheel puller, it works great for me.

BTW........the bearing holders on this example are factory cast brass.

Then it magically turns into 6 headwires.