Leaderboard

The shaft is pressed in. Tremendous amount of force to remove and likely could damage the casting. Additionally everything that is machined is relative to that shaft location and changing that would likely throw off that as well. Most folks simply remove the insulation paper and clean around the shaft and the outside of the oil ports with solvent. Using gun bore type cleaning tools and solvent you can adequately clean the ID of the shaft. Highly recommend not trying to press out that shaft! ...........Dan H.

None I’m aware of David.

Ryan Cmunt, Patrick Ray, Ray Hane, Les Dobbins, Dave Northam, Robin Cook and Mark Depker reconvene Thursday night for the Florida Fan Fest, which starts Saturday, February 24. Robin and Edwin welcomed early arrivals to their home with a wonderful dinner that Robin prepared of meat loaf, mashed potatoes, bread and a pumpkin roll. Meanwhile, Randy and Rene Halbert enjoyed dinner with Terry and Peggie Wright at a popular Sarasota restaurant.

Dave Northam, Robin Cook and Mark Depker

Dan; that is a very interesting design! I commented on your post on Facebook, as well; however now I see more and better pictures here. It's interesting that the smaller windings are concentric to each pole of the main winding, and in alternating polarity. It would seem as if they are no more than "additional turns" in the same magnetic orientation to the main winding. Regardless of what sort of phase shift happens, it is hard to understand how this could create initial rotation at startup. If they are shorted and used as shading coils, that also is confusing since they aren't offset to one side or the other to create rotation. Question from a very different angle - were there any ceiling fans which required manual starting and had no built-in self-starting capability?

They offered those 8" models with factory brass plating as well.

Hi Dan, maybe these will help you see. I may be incorrect on my initial assessment of your motor, but for now, I stand with it.

You can just use a one-sided razor to hopefully carefully lift up that insulator to save it. I use a pistol cleaning rod with handle and correct diameter brass bristle brush with cleaning solvent to ream out the bearing shaft crud. Soaking the housing in parts cleaner will break down that caked on crud (take the motor tag off before/if you soak it in parts cleaner). The black finish as you know is tough as nails and can hack the solvent soak. The painted letters on the back of the housing may be lost but can be redone.

I 2nd that emotion. Good way to knock out the back of the motor casting as well