Louis Luu Posted June 15, 2022 Share Posted June 15, 2022 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Huber Posted June 15, 2022 Share Posted June 15, 2022 Now you're talking turkey. 🙂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted June 15, 2022 Author Share Posted June 15, 2022 I'm going to draw the base with the pivot design as is. I just don't see how it would work with a motor sitting on top. I will get it printed and test it out. If it works, I will invest my time drawing the motor. The top bracket will need to be brass/bronze. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted June 15, 2022 Author Share Posted June 15, 2022 I just realize my assumption in this thing not working may be wrong. With the motor spinning and the top base sitting on a pin, this thing acts like a gyroscope to keep it perpendicular and balance...it actually may work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted June 15, 2022 Author Share Posted June 15, 2022 (edited) Also, note that the top base is off center from the long extension "arm"...this is to help with balance? Edited June 15, 2022 by Louis Luu 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted June 15, 2022 Author Share Posted June 15, 2022 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Huber Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 (edited) 2 hours ago, Louis Luu said: I just don't see how it would work with a motor sitting on top. You're overthinking it. The top section that rotates with the fan motor mounted is sleeved to fit over the rod mounted to the lower section (rod dished on top) like an Emerson rotor slides on to the hardened steel shaft. Notice the recessed area of the rod and the screw (K6) that is turned in to the recess to secure the rotating upper section on the pin. The sleeve fitted over the rod keeps the rotating upper section with fan mounted on it level and secure while it spins. The machined metal point integral with the rotating upper section seated on the DISHED top of the rod seen under K7 is supporting the load of the upper rotating section and fan motor. This is where the upper section rotates with minimal resistance due to the minimal load bearing metal contact between the upper section point resting on the DISHED area of the rod mounted the lower section. Edited June 16, 2022 by Russ Huber 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted June 16, 2022 Author Share Posted June 16, 2022 3 minutes ago, Russ Huber said: You're overthinking it. The top section that rotates with the fan motor mounted is sleeved to fit over the rod mounted to the lower section (rod dished on top) like an Emerson rotor slides on to the hardened steel shaft. Notice the recessed area of the rod and the screw (K6) that is turned in to the recess to secure the rotating upper section on the pin. The sleeve fitted over the rod keeps the rotating upper section with fan mounted on it level and secure while it spins. The machined metal point integral with the rotating upper section seated on the DISHED top of the rod seen under K7 is supporting the load of the upper rotating section and fan motor. This is where the upper section rotates with minimal resistance due to the minimal metal contact between the upper section point resting on the DISHED area of the rod mounted the lower section. Just want to make sure....as long as there is a sleeve that would elevate the rim to minimize contact of top and bottom...there is no need for the dip in the middle for the top? The dip on the top plate would not be useful for placing a fan...can I get rid of that dip for the top? I thought the dip had to do with lowering the center of gravity...which does not make sense once a motor is place on top....I could be wrong. Please educate me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Huber Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 When the fan is mounted on the top rotator section, you won't see the dip. The dip section brings the load bearing pin/sleeve lower to reduce the amount of sleeve length over the lower section rod without jeopardizing the top section rotator stability. The less metal against metal contact/friction....the more free it spins. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Huber Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted June 16, 2022 Author Share Posted June 16, 2022 12 minutes ago, Russ Huber said: This one is much better. First time I saw it, I was in awe at human tooling ability. To be able measure by mere touch due to years of practice is a feat is is seldom seen! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Huber Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 You could drill a centered threaded hole and thread in a hardened steel screw with the point on the end rather than machine a sleeve and internal point. You could machine a sleeve to fit over the lower rod as well that can be threaded on to the top rotator. Hill's patent plan appears to cast the top rotator and machine the integral sleeve. If you machine those components separate the more easily replaceable when worn, as I see it. I am not an engineer. The focus is MINUMAL metal to metal friction and balance for free effortless spin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted June 16, 2022 Author Share Posted June 16, 2022 7 minutes ago, Russ Huber said: You could drill a centered threaded hole and thread in a hardened steel screw with the point on the end rather than machine a sleeve and internal point. You could machine a sleeve to fit over the lower rod as well that can be threaded on to the top rotator. Hill's patent plan appears to cast the top rotator and machine the integral sleeve. If you machine those components separate the more easily replaceable when worn, as I see it. I am not an engineer. The focus is MINUMAL metal to metal friction and balance for free effortless spin. I had the same thought. I will most likely go this route. I will size it for my Porter Motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted June 16, 2022 Author Share Posted June 16, 2022 Here are all the essential parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted June 16, 2022 Author Share Posted June 16, 2022 The base. I need to add the brush holder and the pivot in the middle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted June 16, 2022 Author Share Posted June 16, 2022 Top plate for base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted June 17, 2022 Author Share Posted June 17, 2022 Will finish up tomorrow. Need to put on the brush, pivot, measure for commutator and round off the edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted June 17, 2022 Author Share Posted June 17, 2022 Bottom piece is done. The brush holder will be printed in plastic and removable for easy service. The bottom pivot is also removable and is recessed and attached through the bottom with a screw. This will also make servicing serviceable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted June 18, 2022 Author Share Posted June 18, 2022 Top piece for base. The top pivot will be threaded and replaceable. This will be used to adjust the height for the top vane section where the motor sits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted June 18, 2022 Author Share Posted June 18, 2022 (edited) The extension arm is out of proportion...I just compared it with some pictures. Fixed. Edited June 18, 2022 by Louis Luu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted November 23, 2022 Author Share Posted November 23, 2022 David Cherry suggest I put slots in the middle of the hub and have the brass blades soldered on. I will need to make press plates to form the blade. I got a motor that can be used for the rotor. It is a monopole just like the drawing. I will draw the frame around it. Maybe I will make the rotor from scratch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted November 24, 2022 Author Share Posted November 24, 2022 (edited) Took some suggestions from David Cherry. I changed it to a 10 inch blade (made sense since there will be no cage). Changed the pitch degree to 13 to run clockwise like the old DC motors. I also lessen the curvature/flatten the outer diameter to make it look more like the pizza blade. Also rounded the sharp corners. The center front portion of the hub is actually 20mm....the only reason it looks small is because the blade is 10 inches (154mm) across. Edited November 24, 2022 by Louis Luu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted November 24, 2022 Author Share Posted November 24, 2022 I also took the liberty to make the template for 3 blade, 4 blade and 5 blade for smaller size motors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted November 25, 2022 Author Share Posted November 25, 2022 Motor and rotor bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Luu Posted November 26, 2022 Author Share Posted November 26, 2022 Finalized motor. I decided to remove the winding core to save on cost and ease winding. Just need to draw up the rotor next. I need to source some bronze bearing and oiler. Once I get them, I will enlarge the hole for the rotor and the oiler. The original ones did not have an oiler in the picture? Otherwise, everything is all done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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