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Workshop fan Jack Frost


Joseph Aguzin

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Has anyone seen this fan before? I’m use to redoing GE and Emerson cast iron. This is my first newer style. Do these have a model number? I got the blade off and started polishing it. But that’s where I’m at so far. Next I’m taking out the stator and testing the windings. If the windings are good, does anyone take out the windings, remove the old friction tape, and retape and re fish paper?

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Edited by Joseph Aguzin
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They say the young start out being democrats but given enough time will die republican.. Same goes with fan restorers .. You may start out all excited wanting to do everything right ,,But given enough time you will come to the rationalization that if it ain’t broke don’t fix it..  

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I agree with everything you say Chris.. now that I have said that.. My point was there’s a risk factor, Old wiring is very brittle and sometimes you have to decide is it worth the  risk of trashing the motor.. that’s what I meant by, If  an ain’t broke don’t fix it part.. on three different occasions I was completely done with putting everything back together with a full restoration I had checked it out throughout the process and everything was a go.. finally it’s done and I plug it in for its maiden run, only to realize that it’s running backwards or not running at all.. hours later, realizing that something must’ve broke deep inside just the frustration.. maybe I need to get out of this business.. I do understand the enjoyment of bringing these old fans back to life.. I guess once you fall off a horse a few times you’re a little skittish getting back on one.. some of these fans are worth thousands of dollars.. 

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On 11/18/2022 at 8:40 PM, David A Cherry said:

They say the young start out being democrats but given enough time will die republican.. Same goes with fan restorers .. You may start out all excited wanting to do everything right ,,But given enough time you will come to the rationalization that if it ain’t broke don’t fix it..  

I'm totally with you there! Experience is the best teacher as to what repairs are worth the risks versus the possible benefits. Any time you disturb an old winding, there is a risk of creating broken wires or turn-to-turn shorts. If this happens, the motor will need to be rewound. If the winding is good, unless it's a very valuable motor you want to rewind anyway - try to disturb the winding as little as possible.

One pitfall is to remove a stator from a steel housing motor and accidentally separate the laminations. That can often crack the slot liners, and cause the winding wire to touch the stator laminations, causing a ground fault and turn-to-turn shorts. 

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I’m trying to be slow and gentle. I’ve gotten to some of the solder joints. The switch is separate from the speed coil. The old insulation wire is toast, falling apart. Here are pics I don’t know if it’s a 2 wire or 3 wire to the switch, maybe someone knows better. I would think it’s 3 wire. Attached is my diagram. Should it be pic 2 or 3?

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Edited by Joseph Aguzin
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10 hours ago, Joseph Aguzin said:

I’m trying to be slow and gentle. I’ve gotten to some of the solder joints. The switch is separate from the speed coil. The old insulation wire is toast, falling apart. Here are pics I don’t know if it’s a 2 wire or 3 wire to the switch, maybe someone knows better. I would think it’s 3 wire. Attached is my diagram. Should it be pic 2 or 3?

Joseph, that looks like good progress so far. Assuming the actual winding magnet wire isn't damaged, you can re-insulate the stator lead wires. This is less invasive than trying to remove it down to the solder joints at the stator.  Simply remove all the old insulation from the lead wires (except for maybe the last 1/4"). Then replace it with one or two layers of heat shrink sleeve. That will restore flexibility and provide new insulation. 

As for the diagram, something is missing. The power cord should have two cores. One of them should go directly (and only) to the stator, for the neutral / Common connection.

The live side of the cord should go to the switch Common input terminal.  Then, the two remaining switch terminals are the outputs for the High and Low speeds. High switch output will go directly to the stator; while Low will go through the choke and then join with high to the stator. 

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Made some notes on your diagram. Hope this helps! 

You'll need to remove all wires from the switch, and use a meter to figure out which terminals have which functions. The diagram of how the switch should work is at the top. The red lines show the connection made by the switch in each of the positions. 

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David, your diagram is very helpful and educational to an unsure novice like myself. You were correct, I took the switch out and it’s just as you say.

Thank you

now I need to figure out the ohms. My wires 2-3 seem odd and low at 1.8. Maybe I need to clean them better.

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  • 3 weeks later...

My question today is about this odd oil sponge, what is it? What is it made of? Where can I get a new one? I’ve been working slowly, I have everything apart and didn’t break anything yet! I cleaned everything.

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These are old and hardened. Someone told me, they are made of wool and don’t clean them. Just soak them in WD40 then after a few days, soak them in oil for a few days. So I’m onto the WD40 stage.

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