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GE 8" Gun Blued All Brass Disassembled


Russ Huber

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2 hours ago, Steve Rockwell said:

        Thanks for opening that up and photographing... answers several questions.

I'm curious as to your questions? Please share.

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Pulling the stators on these is interesting to say the least. They don't just slide out I assure you. I drilled the front two stator screw holes of the front housing slightly wider with a 11/64" drill bit and drove the stator out with a same diameter drift punch. The vice jaws supported the housing lips as I drove it out. The risk factor is the brass stator screw holders that get damaged/break off and need to be replaced. Not a major issue.

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Edited by Russ Huber
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Great pictorial and very much appreciated sharing it all. I’ve had to slightly drill the holes on Westinghouse fans three times and it worked like a charm each time. Had a stator froze in a steel housing Century recently which I couldn’t get out. Did the same and actually ended up with the drift punch pushing in and slightly collapsing the two corresponding holes in the stator. Ugh! Will have to try and tap them out a bit. So my lesson learned not to be overly aggressive even with the method you described.

Edited by Dave McManaman
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9 minutes ago, Dave McManaman said:

Great pictorial and very much appreciated sharing it all. I’ve had to slightly drill the holes on Westinghouse fans three tinier and worked like a charm each time. Had a stator froze in a steel housing Century recently which I couldn’t get out. Did the same and actually ended up with the drift punch pushing in and slightly collapsing the two corresponding holes in the stator. Will have to try and tap them out a bit. So my lesson learned not to be overly aggressive even with the method you described.

The Westinghouse drawn steel STATIONARY models are the best set up for driving the stators out with a drift punch. Why? Because all you need to do is drill two opposing stator bolt holes slightly wider than the original hole, place the housing lip on the bench vice jaws, and slowly drive the stator out. The struts will cover the drilled/widened housing holes when all is done. 

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11 hours ago, Russ Huber said:

I'm curious as to your questions? Please share.

     I've been dull-witted while considering this thread and its counterpart, https://new.afcaforum.com/index.php?/topic/3214-1910-ge-brassie/#comment-22312. I had concluded there should be a plate held by the (3) screws in both motor caps which would enable the bearing and housing to be rotated in 1/3 revolutions, leaving the oil cups suspended below, and that securing such a threaded plate was the screws' function (the front screws would have to also attach the struts.) Your photo depicted it much as I imagined its appearance might be and confirmed speculation. Pics from elsewhere almost universally have the fan blade blocking view of the front cap... Beyond that, I really like the disassembled-parts photos you take, and it seems to me that every fan in the Gallery should have one taken when it's apart... About a half-hour ago I realized I had the answers all along... dull, dull, dull.....

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Edited by Steve Rockwell
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I bought it from a dealer at a shop traveling years back.  I am no big fanatic of these, but this one caught my interest cosmetically, and I went the distance the dealer inflicted on me for a fan with no cord for a test run. The Westy 8" all brass is more restoration friendly as opposed to working on one of these. The stator doesn't just slide out, and the bearing holders with screws removed don't just slide out. and both are snugged into a stamped metal housing that can distort creating alignment issues using force. GE working for you.

Edited by Russ Huber
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Clever, Bobby. I didn't have one handy.  The drift punch method would be just fine with the exception of damaging/breaking off those threaded brass extensions at the blade side of the stator.  I was not worried about it as the stator is no good.

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Thank you for sharing the photographs! I just bought an example of the same model with the head wires cut off from the speed coil so I am trying to figure out how to put them back together and make the fan run again. I have quite a few questions that I hope you can help answer: Do you know what the Ohm readings of the stator are supposed to be? (Mine has the followings: yellow-green: 57.6; yellow-red: 100.2; green-red: 55.8). Did you take photos of how the wiring looks like. Also, how did you test if the speed coil is functional?  Thank you.

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I have the model where the headwire goes through the stem & one of the leads was broken. That thing was a nightmare I would just as soon not deal with again.

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1 hour ago, Liem Nguyen said:

Thank you for sharing the photographs! I just bought an example of the same model with the head wires cut off from the speed coil so I am trying to figure out how to put them back together and make the fan run again. I have quite a few questions that I hope you can help answer: Do you know what the Ohm readings of the stator are supposed to be? (Mine has the followings: yellow-green: 57.6; yellow-red: 100.2; green-red: 55.8). Did you take photos of how the wiring looks like. Also, how did you test if the speed coil is functional?  Thank you.

 

I am sorry, the reason I sold the fan for my purchase price was because the stator and coil had opens.  So, giving you ohm readings is not possible, and the original wiring was no longer extending down and connected to the switch. I purchased the fan while traveling as is from a dealer. The risks we sometimes take. 🙂

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2 hours ago, Russ Huber said:

I am sorry, the reason I sold the fan for my purchase price was because the stator and coil had opens.  So, giving you ohm readings is not possible, and the original wiring was no longer extending down and connected to the switch. I purchased the fan while traveling as is from a dealer. The risks we sometimes take. 🙂

I took the same risks when buying my fan from eBay. The stator of my fan does not seem to have opens fortunately, but the speed coil does not look that great. I'd probably try wiring with different combinations once I have the coil working. Thanks again for sharing the photos of the disassembled fan which has helped me to better understand how the fan was made.

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12 hours ago, Liem Nguyen said:

I took the same risks when buying my fan from eBay. The stator of my fan does not seem to have opens fortunately, but the speed coil does not look that great. I'd probably try wiring with different combinations once I have the coil working. Thanks again for sharing the photos of the disassembled fan which has helped me to better understand how the fan was made.

I could get one ohm reading from my 3-wire stator. It appears your stator is good. That is a major plus as that would be your most expensive repair. There are people here that can rewind your switch coil.

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5 hours ago, Russ Huber said:

I could get one ohm reading from my 3-wire stator. It appears your stator is good. That is a major plus as that would be your most expensive repair. There are people here that can rewind your switch coil.

That's a great news! Thank you so much. Hopefully I can make the fan run again soon..

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7 hours ago, Russ Huber said:

I could get one ohm reading from my 3-wire stator. It appears your stator is good. That is a major plus as that would be your most expensive repair. There are people here that can rewind your switch coil.

The flying lead tap is missing but readings from the switch coil seems Ok. 

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