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241853b Westinghouse restoration.


Paul Carmody

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I bought this little 1917 or so Westinghouse ,cord was broke at base.Running condition unknown?I opened the bottom up to attach a temporary cord for testing and I looked in and thought the coil was gone.If you have not seen one of these ,it’s a very interesting speed coil.It’s about 1/2”thick and wires run on the outside and completely hidden under thick varnish except where it hooks to contacts.The speeds work perfect with very noticeable difference in speed.I don’t know what the paper is?Maybe a service tag from many years ago.All wires that were still there completely original and deteriorating.I cleaned nothing in photos.The whole inside of fan ,base ,motor is near spotless clean?Although the outside was covered in grime.More on this fan as it progresses.

 

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Edited by Paul Carmody
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A few more pics of inside.I cleaned nothing.Not even wiped with rag.The only oil is clean from when I shot oil into the bearings before testing that worked into case.Not a spec of rust anywhere except what’s seen in base cover.

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Edited by Paul Carmody
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  • 3 weeks later...

Since no one commented on the speed coil I will give an uneducated assessment.It is Nichrome and it doesn’t wrap around the outside but is sandwiched inside the the porcelain or what ever material it is to reduce heat in such a small space.The reason for this conclusion is heat readings across the coil surface.Cleaned up and ready to go.There was a deep grove on the handle where it rubbed the case now repaired too.Also what appeared to be rust in base polished up nicely.I believe it is zinc plating.More on that later.I have no clue what the numbers were but I put them back.

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I should show before.This fan had shipping damage that I had described a while back.Badge destroyed,blade bent,threaded rod through motor broke.Not that the packing was terrible but must have been thrown down with great force.It was purchased running condition unknown because the cord was broke off in base.The bearing was also knocked out of alignment and made a horrible noise.At first I was going to toss it in the pile because I thought it was not worth the effort.As I cleaned it up other than the damage it was in remarkable condition for 106 years old.My first thought was to balance the blade,put a cord on it if all checked out and be done with it.It got out of hand again!

These are from seller before damage.

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I purchased rod from Ace and threaded it.6/32.Then heat treated to make it stiff like the original. They also have all thread that would work.Just a choice.By chance I had a badge in my stash.Someone had polished all the zinc off as well as most of some of the small letters.It had a crease that I was able to repair.The one on the right was the original.You can’t tell in photo, but it still had a lot of zinc left and damage was beyond repair.Broke rod at bottom.

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Here’s the base.It has not been painted.No rust anywhere on this fan.That is some sort of heat insulating tape material on the left.It appears to be metallic.I don’t know what the red dabs are,maybe glue.There is also what looks like a T in chalk.Look closely at the line and head wire.They are new but different.I have something good to say on that at the appropriate time.

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Edited by Paul Carmody
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The felt material is cleaned and is in excellent condition.See drive gear or doohickey sticking out the back.As a reference.Do not over pack it with grease or the fan will lock up.Light coat only!! You know how I know that?I felt all the grease I had to find the one with less resistance.I choose the ugly black Valvoline synthetic's blend bearing grease over full synthetic.Too sticky.Red and tacky.Too tacky.The least resistance the better it seems.I may be off base here but I believe it was designed to run on petroleum jelly, which liquifies with heat or friction.May explain the felt,the oscillator cup,and the oil carrier groves in the down shaft.Only filled to top of felt.Pure speculation.ANY THOUGHTS ON THAT?

 

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As most know I have a soft spot for Westinghouse. This is gonna be a georgeous fan Paul. 

I patiently await the unveiling after a nights rest.

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Westinghouse states in 1921 electrical trade desk fans are painted all black. Nickel plate 10" appears to be 1917-20. The new transformer switch sans coil appears to have been implemented in 19 for 12" & 16" models. 

 

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Edited by Russ Huber
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On 1/6/2023 at 3:18 PM, Tony Clayton said:

As most know I have a soft spot for Westinghouse. This is gonna be a georgeous fan Paul. 

I patiently await the unveiling after a nights rest.

Tony it’s all but done.All left is to put the cage and bottom oscillator plate on.We had visitors today that stayed late.Here it is 5.30AM   with another all night run.Should be pics later today.

Russ thanks a lot for the printouts! .And the rest of the information as well! I have 12”,16” Westinghouse’s that all have three head wires.This particular fan only has two?The green wire in my pics is for added earth ground.

These are solid well made little units that’s for sure.The motor is all cast ,probably some sort of pot metal but it’s solid as a rock.It does not have the Westinghouse neck wobble.All tight and true.Another thing is the rotor tolerance end play was 1/32 and had no shims at all.During oscillation the rotor would pull back and click so a 1/64 Teflon washer was added to the rear.The click is gone.It’s a runner and puts out a lot of wind for a little guy.

Later!

 

 

Edited by Paul Carmody
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So as it turned out I had more than I thought left.I had to straighten the struts out.Rubber mallet on wood ,the soft jaw pliers that fit perfect in the strut channel to grip in the appropriate spot to regain factory bends without damaging factory paint.Russ Huber you have not idea how many tips I have gotten from your post.The soft jaw pliers,+a number of other things.And I now know what a Spudger tool is,that I now have.Nuts,screws needing cleaning and trued.

Notice the struts have a green tint, as well as the rest of the fan.For all purposes when ask someone would say,and the ADs say Westinghouse’s are black.They are not.At least these and into the 20s fans.

I found that a small rubber mallet is good for bending the tabs in the back of badge.Stand and hold cage against belly for support.Use fingers to hold badge and pull tight against cage.Take mallet and tap tab on each side to hold, then go round and round tapping  in and slightly down.It will slowly  pull the badge in tight.Then go around tapping the tabs flat using fingers as support.Light taps and many of them.I know most here have put badges on many times, but if you haven’t.

I lost my good light so pics of finished fan later today.

 

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Said once learn from my mistakes.Well ! I was twisting on the cage to get a twist out when it was mounted and after who knows how much time was spent getting the bearing centered,the front case moved.So who knows how much time was spent to get realigned.  

I found first while rear nuts are loose,twist ,pull around case with motor running no blade until it gets the quietest and snug one nut to hold.Keep grip and go around and snug the rest.If it makes noise on a nut , go to the next.Tighten, if it makes noise adjust back some,go to the next,once snug let go of the case and just adjust nuts.This will go on awhile by tightening and loosening nuts.It’s like tuning and old cars carb or distributor by ear.Remember those?You have to listen and feel closely for changes in sound and vibration as you tweak each nut. When you put the blade on the nuts will probably need to be tweaked again.When you go from high to low probably again.If one thinks that just bolting on the case will work.It won’t !   WESTINGHOUSE !!!

So mistake 2.If the blade is on wear gloves and be very careful.I did have the cage on.I have spent plenty time looking for lost screws and hardware that was dropped or misplaced, but this is the first time I lost almost half a fingernail ! The good thing I didn’t knock the blade out alignment and balance after hours of getting it that way.

The picture will be removed tomorrow.Too graphic! It sheared it right off and sent it flying.I hope it’s not in the coffee mate.
 

 

 

Edited by Paul Carmody
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Before I forget, one more thing to watch.This contact should have double stack nuts.One to hold screw in place and the Nichrome.Another to hold the main wire.It did not.So when the nut was loosened,the screw got loose and during the process the loop on the Nichrome broke and it’s tiny so I almost didn’t see it.I had to solder it to the brass washer with magnification, then put the nut on.If you run across  this make sure the bottom nut is secure and another added before you proceed.

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I want to start by saying that I have no particular brand loyalty.I try to stay with brass for the most part.That’s about my only criteria.My first we’re Emerson’s and I love them each and every one.I take shots at Westinghouse’s as they can be exasperating to say the least.That’s why I only have 9 of them.

The paint on this fan is all original except the back case and oscillator.The center of motor forward and elsewhere is all original.Compounded and waxed.It must have been pushed into something because it had a lot of small scratches and some paint loss in the back only.It just didn’t match the rest of the fan and I couldn't leave it that way.I used Spay Max trim paint as a primer because it will stick to anything.The paint I custom blended to match the rest of the fan and air brushed.It has a green tint that doesn’t show in the pics.I repaired the switch handle.The speed coil by the factory was installed crooked and it cut groves on the top on one end,bottom of the other.Issue addressed.

There is no chips scratches on the base.Even on the bottom ring.There is no visible chips anywhere on the fan .Just dust particles and reflection.
 

The original blue on the big ring.The thumb knob on the top had no bluing and the rear cap.I used brass black on them then polished the edges to replicate wear.Same with the rear motor nuts.Next time I will blue them.I just had the other handy.Base screws heat blued.Wing nut original finish.All cleared.

 

 

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Edited by Paul Carmody
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As you look at this fan and the condition it’s in,I was not able to work some ripples out of one blade .Maybe with brass but the coating is too fragile.There are some spots with the brass undercoat showing but it’s not that noticeable.It’s straight and true and in balance now.Not for me but the fan.If you happen to have a blade laying around contact me.I sure would be interested in purchasing it!! A fan In near perfect condition for over a hundred years and someone’s carelessness,just like that it’s imperfect.

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Edited by Paul Carmody
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The cherry on top is this Tony Clayton wire.It looks ,feels just like the original with an aged charcoal color.Looks like it was there all along.The line wire from a reliable source while similar doesn’t look original or feel original. Tony’s wire is very soft and pliable ,very easy to work in tight spaces.You can shape it where you want going to the head and it stays.Amazing work Tony!

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Edited by Paul Carmody
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My sons wife wanted a fan way back and I gave them my first restore,an Emerson Northwind. My son snagged it for his gaming room.

They came over today and guess what! The oil wick came today and soon as I install.Bye Bye Westy!It may take a couple of weeks though.

I still want to replace blade at some point so I can sleep.

Edited by Paul Carmody
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On 1/8/2023 at 4:40 AM, Paul Carmody said:

Before I forget, one more thing to watch.This contact should have double stack nuts.One to hold screw in place and the Nichrome.Another to hold the main wire.It did not.So when the nut was loosened,the screw got loose and during the process the loop on the Nichrome broke and it’s tiny so I almost didn’t see it.I had to solder it to the brass washer with magnification, then put the nut on.If you run across  this make sure the bottom nut is secure and another added before you proceed.

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Insulated nichrome. Forgot about mentioning this.20230109_120314.thumb.jpg.d233f1209c3398b8c28729fe0d22b04b.jpg

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Hey Russ.I have been totally involved in the fan.I just focus on the task and shut out everything else.I sat back now that it’s done and actually read your post.All reference to Zinc has been removed.I always appreciate your contribution.

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