Emerson Motor Tag Removal

[Russ Huber]

A member sent me a message asking advice on an Emerson motor tag removal. I did a pictorial step by step procedure of tools I use and method. You can go about it in the way that works for you. The original brass escutcheon pins once bent straight typically snap off as they were peened at the elbow bend at the factory. Don't get under the tag with a flat head screwdriver wrenching away to pull up the rivets or you will bend the $hit out of the tag. If after the extensions of the rivets are snapped off the rivet is stubborn to pull up, use a dremel with grinding disc to zap the excess rivet protruding and then try again. It should pull up easy. I ordered my 16-gauge 1/2" brass Decorative Finishing nails/escutcheon pins from McMaster bulk.  McMaster-Carr   to reinstall the tag.

[Russ Huber]

If your tag gets bent, or was bent, I use a jeweler's anvil and rubber/plastic hammer to get er back in alignment. 🙂 Just put some thin, soft cloth between the tag and the anvil.

Edited January 1, 2023 by Russ Huber

[Patrick Ray]

Russ, similar to your method... But after I nip off the folded over portion of the pin, I use a spring loaded automatic center punch to drive the pin out. No prying of the tag. No possibility of damaging paint or the tag. 😃 

 

[Russ Huber]

If anyone else has something to add, have at it. Those who don't know can pick their path. 🙂

[Bobby Gaines]

I use the automatic center punch method, it works well for me. You have to be very careful on the all brass fan if the punch slips (like mine did) then you have a dimple to repair 

[Malcolm MacGregor]

I have this 90 degree ice pick tool. It’s a steel pick. I use a similar method as Patrick uses.  I remove the bent portion, and then tap from the inside with this tool. It will push the remaining nail up enough to make removal possible and it’s safe on the tag!

Hoping this helps👍

[Mark Stillman]

I push the rivets out from the inside.  Almost always reuse them as well.  I flatten out the section that passes through the casting.  Then drive it back in with a small hammer from the outside(holding with small needle nose pliers).  I have never had one come loose.

[Patrick Ray]

3 minutes ago, Mark Stillman said:

I push the rivets out from the inside.  Almost always reuse them as well.  I flatten out the section that passes through the casting.  Then drive it back in with a small hammer from the outside(holding with small needle nose pliers).  I have never had one come loose.

Most of mine are reusable as well. I the same method as you Mark. But I also dip the rivet into a lil super glue just for added hold. 

[Russ Huber]

The McMaster brass 16 gauge-1/2" escutcheon pins are $4.20 + shipping for 200. For you real frugal folks, if you can think of something else that you could use from McMaster in the same order you get more bang for your buck on the shipping. I gotta give Mcmaster a pat on the back, you no more than place the order and that package will be at your door within 2 days. 🙂 

FWIW....as questionable as my method may look, with that wide spade angled sharp razor tool I got at a flea market carefully inserted under the tag, I don't have to pry the tag up. It just comes up. The width and angled razor blade is the key for lifting force.  And if it doesn't want to come up, I just give the remaining protruding rivet on the inside of the housing a quick zap with a dremel grinding wheel, so it is flush with the housing. after that the tag just lifts up. I have had to flatten messed tags someone before me messed with. 

There is nothing wrong with using the punch to drive the rivet out. I have done that as well on big motor housings in the past. Whatever trips your trigger. 🙂

Edited January 2, 2023 by Russ Huber