Jump to content

R&M shaft and removal….HELP!


Malcolm MacGregor

Recommended Posts

I have this Rm 2410. I have tried for 2 days to do something that should be simple, remove the head assembly from the base. I can’t get it. I have soaked parts in Blaster penetrant for 24 hours and today I drilled a lead plug out of the pivot piece and now I can see the end of the shaft. Everything turns easily and this makes me think I am missing something here. 
Any ideas out there?  See photos 

2DE12434-E997-42BF-BC14-5E2A2881F56E.jpeg

595CFB1F-2C69-471B-B40C-ED7F1D71D2F1.jpeg

0E6EBBFB-FDE5-4BD8-8C81-CB30876175FE.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a 2610 stuck like that and had to tap It out with a flat straight punch from the bottom.Turn it upside down and and let it soak a few days in penetrating oil.Every brand you have.Also try to run penetrant top of neck.May be more important than bottom.It would help to heat it which may be difficult if your saving the paint.I used some hard licks and as it turned out was very lucky to not have damaged it.I wouldn’t use that kind of force again.There is ball bearings in there and I slightly damaged the race.My first R+M.Was able to roll it back and fourth and it freed up.There was rust,corrosion around the bearings and bottom of inside. Use a smaller diameter punch because you only want force in the center of rod to prevent damage to outer bearing race.

Edited by Paul Carmody
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was thinking that condensation gets in and there’s no where to go as it is a tight fit.Most fans or at least the ones I have there’s a hole in the bottom of neck pivot.It may be there to prevent moisture, condensation  building up.These wonderful Westinghouse’s  have a very nice and precision  vent hole in the bottom.I have just began to mess with R+Ms and so far am impressed with their precision.

Edited by Paul Carmody
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remove all the miscellaneous little screws around where the motor shaft slides into the knuckle and down into the fan base.  The motor has to be removed to get the big thick bolt out after removing a couple of washers, one of which is slightly cone shaped.  The large bolt where the wing screw goes on has a spline that engages a groove in the knuckle, and the motor shaft slides into the hole in the center of the knuckle.  You have to concentrate on getting the motor off the base, and that's a strictly mechanical issue. My stupid camera picked tonight to quit, but I'll try to get some pics tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On this 2610 only one screw holds the head and shaft on.Here’s a view of the ball bearings.The roller sleeve is very close tolerance so any corrosion will seize it to the neck pivot. 

239A7196-CFF2-45A2-8408-D28AF3F4CAF3.jpeg

8B7CA96F-2D40-4ED8-B513-1E0B6C015BF4.jpeg

B7F72698-F6AC-4AA7-A1E4-AE46C6A79B3B.jpeg

Edited by Paul Carmody
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, there was a soldier plug on the base of the pivot that I drilled out. The other stuff on the head assembly is just cosmetic dirt and not damage. Later today I am hoping to work at it again. It soaked all night in a cleaning solvent. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have given up on removal of the motor head. If I try anymore I will damage it. So, as it turns out, I have a RM 2404 stump and it nearly identical to the 2410. Even the oscillator linkage fits correctly so I’m going to use the stump and leave the original 2410 alone. Thanks for the help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...