Whirl-Aire 921394 newbie, need help!

[Keith Bower]

Trying to get this Whirl-Aire running again (not currently running).

How do I begin to disassemble? It doesn't look like I can get the cage off without pulling the blades as well.  Is that correct, or is there some trick?

[Lane Shirey]

Blade has to some off with the cage. 

[Keith Bower]

Finally got it apart.

Any advice on how to clean up the inside of the motor?

[Ken McClead]

It appears you have a burnt our motor.  See picture and zoom in on area circled in red.  I believe a rewind will be needed.

[Keith Bower]

32 minutes ago, Ken McClead said:

It appears you have a burnt our motor.  See picture and zoom in on area circled in red.  I believe a rewind will be needed.

Ah, thank you, saved me a bunch of time!  I'll take it to my local motor place and see what they say.

I believe the switch was tampered with before I got it. Does anyone have a schematic or wiring diagram for this type of motor & switch?  The motor leads are labeled T1, T2, T3, T11, T12 and the switch has 6 terminals.  I think it's a 2 speed split phase motor with start winding, but not sure how it's supposed to be connected.

[Tony Clayton]

Dont let them throw it away.

Not many are willing to do such old motors. There are people here that could do it.

[Keith Bower]

15 minutes ago, Tony Clayton said:

Dont let them throw it away.

Not many are willing to do such old motors. There are people here that could do it.

No, I won't let them do that.

It's very heavy, I figured it would cost a fortune to ship.  Although I guess I'd only need to ship the stator?

[Vic Valencheck]

 

I had the same problem with mine. The motor was fried! I had the motor rewound but it cost big bucks. It cost me more than the fan is worth but it runs great! Message me if you want the information of the company that did it. 

 

 

[Keith Bower]

20 hours ago, Vic Valencheck said:

 

I had the same problem with mine. The motor was fried! I had the motor rewound but it cost big bucks. It cost me more than the fan is worth but it runs great! Message me if you want the information of the company that did it. 

 

 

That's beautiful!  Mine will never look that good 😀 

Is yours a 2 speed?  I'm looking for a wiring diagram or schematic that shows how to wire it up since the switch on mine was partially disassembled.

This is as close as I've found (from this thread https://www.afcaforum.com/forum5/22242.html):

[Vic Valencheck]

45 minutes ago, Keith Bower said:

That's beautiful!  Mine will never look that good 😀 

Is yours a 2 speed?  I'm looking for a wiring diagram or schematic that shows how to wire it up since the switch on mine was partially disassembled.

This is as close as I've found (from this thread https://www.afcaforum.com/forum5/22242.html😞

Yes it is a two speed. I might have a wiring diagram but I'll have to hunt for it. 

[Keith Bower]

4 hours ago, Vic Valencheck said:

Yes it is a two speed. I might have a wiring diagram but I'll have to hunt for it. 

I'd be eternally grateful.

It looks like my switch is also bad, which probably contributed to the motor failure.  I think it's a Bryant from pictures of similar fans (don't have the cover), but I'm not even sure how to search for a replacement.

[Russ Huber]

1 hour ago, Keith Bower said:

I'd be eternally grateful.

It looks like my switch is also bad, which probably contributed to the motor failure.  I think it's a Bryant from pictures of similar fans (don't have the cover), but I'm not even sure how to search for a replacement.

Is the snap (spring) action still present? Could be a good cleaning and reinserting a new bead pull chain may get the switch back in action. 

Edited March 13, 2023 by Russ Huber

[Keith Bower]

11 hours ago, Russ Huber said:

Is the snap (spring) action still present? Could be a good cleaning and reinserting a new bead pull chain may get the switch back in action. 

Yes, it still snaps and spins.  However, one of the pins that connects the upper and lower set of contactors is loose or broken.  It causes the lower set of contactors to not completely clear the terminals in the 'off' position.  Since it's already broken, I'll disassemble and see if it can be fixed.

In any case, I still need to find a back or a complete replacement.

[Keith Bower]

Local motor shop says they don't usually rewind under 10HP and cost starts at $600.

Anyone have recommendations for someone that might be familiar with this type of motor rewind?

Thanks!

[Stan Adams]

Sean Wright had someone in his area who rewound his 24” GE at a reasonable cost.

[Vic Valencheck]

I did a lot of shopping around and ended up using Eurton Electric in CA. Unfortunately it cost me $600 in 2018. They did a great job but obviously it cost me more then the fan is worth. That's what it took to bring it back from the dead. HaHa Hope you can do better. Good luck

[Keith Bower]

21 hours ago, Vic Valencheck said:

I did a lot of shopping around and ended up using Eurton Electric in CA. Unfortunately it cost me $600 in 2018. They did a great job but obviously it cost me more then the fan is worth. That's what it took to bring it back from the dead. HaHa Hope you can do better. Good luck

Good to know, thanks!  It wasn't so much the cost as the fact that they really didn't want to do it as @Tony Clayton mentioned above.

[Keith Bower]

I'm hoping some of you fine people can help me sort out the schematic.  Below is what I know was connected (but maybe not correctly). 

The way I've drawn the motor internals must be wrong, because T1, T2, T11 and T12 were all connected to the rotary switch.  Since this is a two speed motor where the speeds aren't a multiple of two, it should have three separate windings: start, 1140 rpm, and 1725 rpm.  Or am I missing something?

That also means that T3 must be tied internally to one side of the start and both main windings?