JB Welded Screw Slots for GE AOU Gearbox?

[Jared DelOrfano]

Howdy folks.  I am currently restoring a GE AOU AK1.  The gearbox on this fan was pretty badly damaged.  I was able to JB weld it back together referencing this post from the old forum.

Where I am coming into a snag is re-making the two screw slots with JB weld.  In the linked post above, John Shummy commented on 10-17-17 that he: "dipped a set screw in oil and thread it in part way leaving the exposed screw out to to allow the JB Weld to flow around the screw and make a mold of the threads that hold down the top cover. No tapping was necessary." 

I guess I need a bit of clarification on this process, if anyone else has done it before.  Since JB Weld doesn't stick to oily surfaces... would I just dip the screw in oil then pour the JB weld around it?  Or actually thread an oiled screw into the weld?  What type of screw/threading would be best for this? (I would prefer not to throw the irreplaceable brass screws in there and mess them up).  Is there a better way to do this?

Any guidance or suggestions would be appreciated. TIA!

[John Landstrom]

Hey Jared,

The damaged top screw hole was exactly the same problem I (and others) had.

Did you get the set screw and large alignment screw out already?

I tried JB Weld with no success.   Maybe you will.  I tried wrapping the original screw in Teflon tape (single wrap) and pack the JBW around it.  The blob snapped off as I was removing the screw.  I also tried building up a blob, drilling and tapping it.   It shattered when I tried to slowly and carefully tap it.

I had to find a replacement gearbox, which I finally did and it also had a damaged “alignment screw side” top screw area.   I came up with a simple fix that seems to work well.

since the threads re deeper on that side I figured I’d kill 2 birds with one stone….or screw in this case.   I found some new/unused 8-36 brass round-head screws that were 2” long.   I just measured the total length of the original screw +the set screw and used a single screw to serve as both.  (See pic).   I have a bunch of the longer screws left if you’d like a couple to try.

A member here also suggested that maybe one could drill and tap down lower on the other side, even going through the bottom of the gearbox.   Never did try that, but if you did you could use a longer screw and shape it to your needs.   It should seal well enough to not leak/drip.   
 

 

[Jared DelOrfano]

As always, @John Landstrom--thanks for the info.  I did get the set screw and alignment screw out and still have both screws for the lid of the gearbox.  Your trick with the longer screw is smart!

I couldn't get my gearbox off the fan without shattering it and decided I would just try to salvage it.  I overpaid for this fan to begin with, so I was a bit wary to source another one.  Luckily, I was able to get the bottom back on so even if it doesn't end up oscillating once reassembled, at least the gearbox will be aesthetically solid.

Where did you get your 8-36 screws?  If they are at Ace Harware I'll run down there and grab a few for testing with the JB Weld.  Thanks again for your reply.

 

[John Landstrom]

Ha Ha…..got the screws somewhat by accident.  No one carries these old thread styles, especially in brass.  Not that I’ve found anyway.  
 

Happened to find someone with a lot of 50 long ones (easy to cut down to what you need) so I snapped them up.  They were listed in the marine/boating area.   
 

If you want a couple to try just message me your addy and I’ll send ‘em to ya.   It will definitely work on the alignment side (‘it’s what I had to do and works fine).  Good luck on the other side.  If successful please post the fix !  

Edited April 29, 2023 by John Landstrom

[Jared DelOrfano]

PM sent!