Ben Coleman Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 I am a new member and working on my first restoration. I was giving a Westinghouse Model 12-WL-3. The fan ran had some issue on start up but located these problems during disassembly. The fan had an additional problem with oscillation, which appears to be a gearing problem, not sure on this, once the fan is disassembled and cleaned will research this issue further. My big problem at this point is the removal of the stator from the fan motor housing. The stator needs to be cleaned and I wish to replace the original wiring, it has become bridle and cracked. How do you separate the stator from the fan motor housing? I am not sure how to proceed with the stator removal because it is so tight and don't wish to damage the winding. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Atkinson Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 Extracting a stator from stamped steel Westinghouse motor shells are known to be tough because of the tight fit. People have made jigs to help them extract and reinstall. Search for threads on the subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Coleman Posted April 9 Author Share Posted April 9 Thank you and I will search for a jig to help with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Landstrom Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 (edited) I’ve used long machine screws (with the same thread count) threaded them through the stator and gently tapped each with a small hammer to slowly work the stator out. I used long ones so they threaded through the stator so as to prevent damaging the threaded holes. I just had to have them long enough to thread through and have enough sticking out to allow for the stator to be freed. I’ve also threaded the long ones through until I had about an inch or little more to tap on, then backed them out as needed to continue to work the stator out without having a 7-8” screw (or threaded rods) to tap on. This method helped prevent me from bending the screw. I did learn the hard way not to tap hard (at all) on the screws. It seems like it isn’t working at first but the tapping will break any rusted areas free eventually. I’ve tried the “PVC PIPE” method with poor results. The threaded rods/machine screws gave me good results. Edited April 9 by John Landstrom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lane Shirey Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 David Hoatson, AFCA member makes and sells tools to remove the stamped steel stators. He's active here and on the AFCA FB page. They are tough to remove by other means since they were pressed in to the housing. Do not try to use the PVC pipe method, as you're likely to bend the housing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Landstrom Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 7 hours ago, Lane Shirey said: David Hoatson, AFCA member makes and sells tools to remove the stamped steel stators. He's active here and on the AFCA FB page. They are tough to remove by other means since they were pressed in to the housing. Do not try to use the PVC pipe method, as you're likely to bend the housing. Ditto on the PVC method. Been there, done that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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