Advice for Restoring Emerson 79648-AP-G

[Willy Shaffer]

Hello all! I am new when it comes to repairing/restoring fans, although I do have a background in electronics and amusement. I got this fan from a thrift and overall it is decent. It runs. It is a bit beat up on the guard, oscillating is fair, needs a cleaning for sure. I took the fan apart. What a bugger to get that front housing off! I needed to completely take everything apart just to clean and rewire. Most of my questions are on the fixup side of things. I am not looking for new look repair, but functional and clean with a bit of age showing. The fan blades are starting to lose the black paint. I need to strip it down to metal anyway, thinking I might keep it that way. Any concerns? The previous owner hacked off the cord and wired a modern in. I want to rewire but not sure where the original goes. One is tied into the iwre to the head - that looks correct. The other was tied to the frame of the speed switch. That seems wrong. Any photos of this model showing the correct place to wire it? The base was very rusty. I have cleaned the bottom plate but it appears to be flat metal with a cast iron "look" sprayed on. Some of it has worn away. Can this be resprayed or should I just focus on getting off the rust and protecting the metal? The housing looks all cast iron. I planned to derust the interior (not too bad) but what should be added to protect it? Can I treat it like a cast iron skillet and just oil it a bit? Sorry, lots of questions but just very excited to get this guy back up and running! Disassembly was methodical so now it comes to proper lubrication and metal care. I appreciate any advice!

[Mark Olson]

Most of your questions can be answered with "It's your fan, you can do it how you want."

I personally would clean and paint it. I am not sure just oiling it like a skillet would provide any lasting protection.

As far as the line and head wire connections, can you post the resistance readings of the motor leads?

You may also want to test the capacitor to verify that is in spec.

Edited April 10 by Mark Olson

[Stan Adams]

I would replace that capacitor whether it works or not. You can get a 1.5 UF ceiling fan capacitor & put it where the old sardine can cap is. Great fans made for government use. They are unique in their design as they had to follow government specs.

[John Landstrom]

I have a 79646-AP-G that I resto’d a year or so ago.   None of the pics you posted showed me enough to know if it possibly has a similar history.  I thought my fan was from the 40’s and was most likely moved around from office to office, but by the brass tag holes in the base I’m guessing was an inventory tag.   I only think that from one online video.  If I could find a bookmark for it I’d post it but I must have filed it in the twilight zone. It was in poor shape but it now looks good for today’s use.  It’s not a “period/original” correct resto.  My wife likes color.   
 

search my posts and you’ll find my questions nd the answers received.  
 

Here’s a pic of the tag I saw in that video, and reproduced.  I have yet to stamp it.  Didn’t have number stamps. 
Also a couple of the final product.

 

 

[Willy Shaffer]

I really like your paint job! Any tips on painting this? Is there a particular paint that adheres well to this metal? I haven't decided if I want to paint or leave it naked, for now I need to get the rust off and keep it off! Your photo helped me with the wire placement though, so awesome! I may consider changing the capacitor. I plan to take some readings later this week.

[John Landstrom]

Willy,

First off I would urge you to join the gang here with a membership.  Not that much and is well worth it.  
 

Thanks for the compliment.  
 

No real trick to it.  Strip/De-Rust it, prime and paint it.  Primer sticks to metal, paint sticks to primer.  
 

 I strip the rust by immersing the parts in rust remover.  I use Blaster Metal Rescue & rust remover: an eco-friendly product that is reusable.  The parts come out black (old rust) that I scrub off under running water.  If there is any of the original paint left I use the Orange paint remover.   When done with all that I wire wheel the parts and prime with either standard or filler primer paint.   Then sand with 800 and (if needed) prime it again.  Final primer coat is lightly sanded with 800-1000 wet dry or the flexible sanding pads.  

I use Rust-Oleum pop cans for both primer and paint.   This one is painted with Gloss Almond.   
 

Just an FYI, both the blade and cage were prepped in the same fashion, then painted with Rusto’s chrome paint.  It’s a very serviceable approach to avoid spending major bucks on chrome plating.  
 

It’s up to you what paint and color you prefer.  I think on my next one I’ll try a custom color from the local paint shop that will put automotive paint in pop cans for me.   I kinda like some of the new car colors that are being used today.  I’ve told myself 100 times “it’s just paint….dont like it?  Strip it and start over”.  
 

If you want to strip it and leave it clear coat it.  Gloss/satin/matte.  You choose.   
 

There are no set rules.  Some prefer “all original” and others like to update the color pallets for a more modern look.  
 

As for the wiring - it appears that your fan has an added part that’s wired to the speed control.  Mine didn’t have that part so the wiring diagram I found on this site worked for me.  Not sure what that square metal thingy-ma-bob is.  I’m electrically challenged when it comes to this type of wiring.  (But I could rewire your house for ya !)  

if you haven’t yet found the post, there is a ‘bent over’ cotter pin that holds the worm gear onto the shaft.  Once removed you can slide off the worm gear and remove the rotor.  The staters on these cast models comes out fairly easily.   If you need help just search the site.  
 

Good luck and impress your friends with the final results.  Summer’s almost here and it’ll come in useful.