David A Cherry Posted April 29 Share Posted April 29 I tried reducing the blade pitch, and it seemed to help some. now I’m looking into air gap between the stater and the rotor. Has anyone increased the air gap between the stater and rotor to help with cooling … also, I was wondering if you cut some grooves in it equally spaced in the rotor would it act as a small air pump… i’m thinking the resistance in the wiring has increased overtime because of oxidation.. supposedly electrons travel on the outside of the wire.. I don’t want to rewind the stater.. fan is not worth the money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Huber Posted April 29 Share Posted April 29 (edited) 10 hours ago, David A Cherry said: I'm thinking the resistance in the wiring has increased overtime. I think I would lean towards the above quote. If it is an early late 20s model, I have one with an authentic brass blade that runs. I would have to test run it to see how warm it gets. If interested send me a message. Mine is the model #2. It was named the "Cincinnatus" Edited April 29 by Russ Huber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David A Cherry Posted April 30 Author Share Posted April 30 Thanks for replying. I was just curious if anyone has increased the gap between the rotor and the stater to help with overheating problem… a lot of experts on electric motors seem to say that it works.. also there’s mention of the rotor being not centrical with a stater from excessive bearing wear.. so the rotor is no longer in the center of the stater which causes some sort of magnetic flux thing that can also create heat.. I have since learned a lot more and have also come to the conclusion that my rotor is solid as opposed to having lightning air holes drilled through it as I have seen on other rotors.. not only does it lighten the rotor. It allows air to pass through so I may drill my rotor. I no longer have a Bridgeport and an indexing head so I will have to lay it out old-school with cord values, and a drill press.. I will keep everyone informed on my outcome if it does anything or not.. giving it a rewire is just not worth the effort, I think you’re right. The resistance is climbed over the years from oxidation supposedly the electrons travel on the outside of the wire so eventually all these fans are go to turn into little toasters.. i’m also wondering if I lower the voltage what would happen.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Huber Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 It is hard to imagine the ornate Luminaire came into being through them. Even the Luminaires themself have the crude construction shaded pole motors in them manufactured by Cincinnati Victor. They were designing and manufacturing automotive related components prior to introducing their first fan motor with breeze spreader in 27. Charles D. Ryder of Covington Kentucky was the engineer behind their automotive line and their first desk fan with breeze spreader line and Luminaire design. Charles D Ryder Covington - Google Patents I paid $100 for my brass blade Cincinnati Victor breeze spreader model. The dealer wouldn't budge. I just never saw one before with a brass blade. My intuitions were correct I found out when I bought it. It is one of their very first models. I did see one brass blade model on images taken at one of the Dunaway Harrison meets. I don't judge old fans worthy and not worthy of investment based on my opinion or their construction. They have their place in history. Another is the early Eskimo line of fans from Adrian, MI. They came up with a whole new approach to construct a universal fan motor. actually, quite unique. They are a challenge to work on tweaking them to run nice. They do run well when restored properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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