Russ Huber Posted June 18, 2024 Posted June 18, 2024 Basket weave wind shaded pole motor. When I broke it down, I went "what to hell?" 🙂 Quote
Russ Huber Posted June 18, 2024 Author Posted June 18, 2024 Two of the motor starting shades. 1 Quote
Russ Huber Posted June 18, 2024 Author Posted June 18, 2024 Switch with arrowed head cord connections. This fan assembled is a beast. It is heavy. 2 Quote
Russ Huber Posted June 18, 2024 Author Posted June 18, 2024 This fan I would not recommend to a rookie to start learning restoration.  What is strange is obviously not a lot of members own or have dug into one. If you have, please feel free to post your restoration. 🙂 1 Quote
Mark Olson Posted March 4 Posted March 4 That is a very unusual motor design. A "head scratcher", to be sure. Quote
Russ Huber Posted March 4 Author Posted March 4 Even more interesting is removing the die cast pot metal pivot on these models. I get an "E" for effort, but it is not coming out, and I have to work around it painting it. The risk is to high damaging it. Quote
Russ Huber Posted March 4 Author Posted March 4 (edited) I am amazed the fan aside from having to reproduce the pot metal gearbox cover is intact and fully functional. The motor is cast iron and a beast. The entire gearbox and pivot are die cast alloy. Edited March 4 by Russ Huber Quote
Seth Anderson Posted March 4 Posted March 4 FYI, if you end up needing a pivot neck I've got these made up in aluminum. I since learned they fit a lot more than just the 10" fans. The one I copied was from a 10"Â 2 Quote
Russ Huber Posted March 5 Author Posted March 5 4 hours ago, Seth Anderson said: FYI, if you end up needing a pivot neck I've got these made up in aluminum. I since learned they fit a lot more than just the 10" fans. The one I copied was from a 10" Seth's Pivot installed in a Dayton Type 367 for future restoration. 1 Quote
Russ Huber Posted March 5 Author Posted March 5 (edited) 6 hours ago, Russ Huber said: Even more interesting is removing the die cast pot metal pivot on these models. I get an "E" for effort, but it is not coming out, and I have to work around it painting it. The risk is to high damaging it. I appreciate Mark resurrecting this post. I made a second daring attempt to remove the pivot this time with a drift punch and got it out. As you can see the plug has a slotted end inside which gave me the impression it was threaded in. I inserted a drift punch wide enough to clear the threaded hole and gave it a couple hard whacks and out she came. Seth's pivot could be made to work on this earlier Dayton type 67 12" model, but as you can see it is a different animal. I am thrilled it came apart intact. Edited March 5 by Russ Huber 4 Quote
Seth Anderson Posted March 5 Posted March 5 @Russ Huber Looks like it may need a different style center locking cylinder. Anything else? If it's a needed part, a different version could be made quite easily. Quote
Russ Huber Posted March 5 Author Posted March 5 (edited) 19 minutes ago, Seth Anderson said: @Russ Huber Looks like it may need a different style center locking cylinder. Anything else? If it's a needed part, a different version could be made quite easily. Thanks, Seth. Actually, the original center locking cylinder is intact, as are all the components related to the pivot. What I failed to do in trying to remove the pivot locking cylinder from the base in my first attempt was to try driving it out forcefully with a drift punch. Thankfully that worked without regret. In past I posted asking how to get the pivot out. There obviously are so few of these models that survived a fractured pivot or gearbox nobody came forward. I called David Cherry, and he came forward on the post as he restored a 6-wing model like it, and he could not recall how he got the pivot free. Edited March 5 by Russ Huber Quote
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