John Nyman Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 So this thing is just being a pain, I rigged the oiler spring, drove out the domed osc pin and ground it flat to fit when mounted properly, left the arm bent for now as it turns well enuf, re-seated the osc disk pin and top star pin and now looking at the rotor I'm concerned about a couple things and would like some advice. If you look at the front of the rotor there is about 5/8" worth of steel and fiber washers...2 thick steel ones are split badly but the stack does seem to center the rotor inside the stator, however would someone look at the picture and tell me if they think it's centered? I'd like to replace the split washers with something though. Now, I have never seen a rotor shimmed this thick before and was wondering if there is any logic to replacing the stack NOT with the paper thin fiber stuff that I have on hand...it would take a bunch...but with something thicker, or does it matter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lane Shirey Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 First of all, get rid of the steel lock washers and replace with fiber washers. When centering it, keep in mind that the wind from the blades, pushes the rotor toward the back of the fan in operation, so push it tightly backwards when making your comparison. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Nyman Posted July 12 Author Share Posted July 12 Yes, I'm amazed that someone used those washers, but I was curious if there is a downside to using 20 thin fiber washers vs something thicker but most importantly, I was concerned if the rotor looked centered in the picture as I've never really had a rotor so shimmed and whoever got into this did some wierd stuff....so I'm interested if you guys think it looks centered in the pics. Right now the play is about 1/4 inch so not terrible... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lane Shirey Posted July 12 Share Posted July 12 You have to use a flashlight and peek through the vent holes on the one side then compare it to the other side. Nearly impossible to tell just by looking on one side. I don’t think I’ve ever needed 20 fiber washers on any Loophandle fan. Usually like 3 washers on each side, sometimes 4 and 2, depending on centering. Are you sure it’s the right rotor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Lawson Posted July 13 Share Posted July 13 With those lock washers in there, who knows what other hot-rodding might have been done to it! I agree with Lane - usually two to four fiber washers will do it. I've never seen one with 20 or anywhere close to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Nyman Posted July 13 Author Share Posted July 13 Well, thanks Lane...I'm now thinking that the rotor is wrong. I was able to center it inside the stator as you suggested with only minimum front spacers but that caused more issues, when re-assembled the rotor locked so I loosened the four screws and wiggled the rear cover until the rotor would free up. Then I ran it and of course it ground metal on metal until I found the right "english" as I tightened the screws a little at a time kinda randomly but even then it was clunking a bit...plus I then needed the remaining 1/2 inch (litterally) of spacers for the rear of the rotor where it meets the back bushing...do these pics of the rear bushing look right? Any way...any further thoughts on this would be very welcome. James: yeah, someone really played some strange games with this one...It may take only 4 washers for the front but it's easily 20 for the rear and there is still 1/4 of play 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Nyman Posted July 16 Author Share Posted July 16 Ok, so NOW I think this is the original rotor again because someone ground forward the blade set-screw slot on the shaft, added shims to push the rotor back into the gears...I presume to allow a true 3/8" part of the shaft to ride in the front bushing and avoid the front end slop. .375 inches = 3/8", my caliper shows the front shaft generally measures .375 but the shaft has a portion reading .373 but I can't get a good read on the ID of the bushing as it's mounted recessed in the nose...does anyone know how to get the front bushing out? And does anybody know what it's ID should be? When I shim the rotor towards the rear it runs fairly well...noisy but not clunking about....I have a 220V parts fan with a similar looking front bushing....any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Kowalke Posted July 16 Share Posted July 16 Unscrew that outer metal ring with a slot in it. It has normal RH threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Landstrom Posted July 16 Share Posted July 16 52 minutes ago, Edward Kowalke said: Unscrew that outer metal ring with a slot in it. It has normal RH threads. I agree. Personally, I’d remove the threaded ring using a very small screwdriver to drive it slowly counterclockwise. The ring two slots (opposite each other) and a slightly larger one that is actually where the split is in the ring. I normally just utilize the two smaller slots and an 1/8” screwdriver, along with a small hammer, to slowly work the ring free. Remove the threaded ring, the cupped ring, and the brass bearing. Clean the parts and mounting area. I’d clean both front and rear this way. When reassembling use oil. Only tighten the threaded ring just enough to allow the bearing to be free to move but not loose. I’ve had my rotors bind up because I’ve over tightened the split ring. I’m also thinking you may need to look for a correct rotor. It shouldn’t need but 1-4 fiber washers on either end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Nyman Posted July 17 Author Share Posted July 17 I am guessing this is the right rotor, but that the front bushing is worn as is the rotor shaft where it rides inside the bushing. It's been heavily spaced towards the rear to avoid the worn rotor shaft region...picture the blade being mounted at the very tip of the rotor and not inside the cut-out slot. This drove the back of the rotor shaft into the gearbox quite a way but not too far...I guess? Anyway, this agressive rearward spacing put the rotor far out of the center of the stator, but at least it runs so-so in this fashion. However, I hope that a "new" front bushing will allow me to re-shim everything in a "normal-ish" fashion...so that is why I was asking if anyone knew what the inside diameter of the front bushing should be so I can measure before installation. Thanks John and Edward, I was wondering how that booger was going to come out, I appreciate your comments both! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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