John Deats Posted December 17, 2024 Posted December 17, 2024 I finally pulled the trigger and bought a 21646. A little rusty, but overall in pretty good shape. It doesn't run yet. The wiring kept crumbling all the way to the stator leads. I did get a reading on all wires, so that's a really good sign. I was going to save it for a spring project but could not wait. It's in pieces now, each being attended to one section at a time. Can't paint in the winter here, not equipped for it. I am going to preserve as much of the original paint as I can, then the painting begins in spring. I have my shopping list for the needed parts to make it as close to original as possible, so I will be taking full advantage of the wanted section of the forum. Well, here it is. This is it. 1 Quote
Russ Huber Posted December 17, 2024 Posted December 17, 2024 I am very confident she will be a good runner. The early models came with the long tag, the next is your model with rectangular tag, and to follow in EARLY 1917 they had the rectangular tag with carry handle. Your fan has the patented improved Parker blade with patent filed in Sept. 1925. Your original blade would have had a cast iron hub, but if this blade works for you, that is all that matters. 🙂 1 Quote
John Deats Posted December 17, 2024 Author Posted December 17, 2024 I do plan on looking for an original blade, but that will be last. Now I have to find the cage, button and struts. If the blade comes to surface before the others, I will go for it. I have been researching in the old forum and am going to use your photo's and articles for future reference. Quote
Russ Huber Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 #1. Long tag - #2. Rectangular tag (yours) - #3. Rectangular Tag with handle. 1 Quote
Russ Huber Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 18 minutes ago, John Deats said: Now I have to find the cage, button and struts. The guard badge is fastened on cast lead. Typically, the badge will be present on the guard. To make it factory you would need the correct guard, blade, struts, and the ball detent or ratchet case oscillator wheel. To obtain all of these missing items would cost you hundreds in the real world. Then there is the possibility there may be very generous members that will sell them cheap or donate them for Christmas. Or you can be patient and possibly find the parts cheap over time at flea markets or marketplace. Good luck! 1 Quote
Martin Carena-Santiago Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 Great find, I picked up a 21646 in 2010 in similar condition, took me about 4 years to finally find all the parts. A great fan and well worth completing, I love mine, even without the original ratcheting oscillator wheel! 😂 1 Quote
John Deats Posted December 18, 2024 Author Posted December 18, 2024 I know that it won't get done right away, and it may be costly. This is going to be another part of the hobby, the hunt. Quote
Michael Rathberger Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 I may have struts off a 24646 I think are the same. I posted in BST yonks ago and they didn't sell. I also have a brass cage I have no idea where it came from. It just was there. When you're ready hit me up. 1 Quote
John Deats Posted December 18, 2024 Author Posted December 18, 2024 Thanks Mike, very much appreciated and interested. Quote
Russ Huber Posted December 19, 2024 Posted December 19, 2024 On 12/17/2024 at 7:27 PM, Michael Rathberger said: I also have a brass cage I have no idea where it came from. It just was there. WoW, John! That Rathberger guy is magical. I should know, he has worked a few miracles for me. Just don't push your luck. 🙂 1 Quote
John Deats Posted December 28, 2024 Author Posted December 28, 2024 Well, my impatience has kicked in once more. I took the beauty apart, stripped some old paint, and used compound and polish on the others. Tomorrow calls for temps to be in the fifties. Might just be a paint day for some parts. The motor housing parts cleaned up really nice to where they almost look new. Motor and parts cleaned up well as well did the wiring. Even the screws only needed a good cleaning. So far it's coming along pretty well.Here are a few photo's of the progress on this piece of machinery. 3 Quote
Marc Sova Posted March 1 Posted March 1 On 12/17/2024 at 4:00 PM, John Deats said: I finally pulled the trigger and bought a 21646…. Do you by chance have written down the readings from the stato/headwire????? Quote
Marc Sova Posted March 1 Posted March 1 On 12/17/2024 at 6:39 PM, Martin Carena-Santiago said: Great find, I picked up a 21646 in 2010 in similar condition, took me about 4 years to finally find all the parts. A great fan and well worth completing, I love mine, even without the original ratcheting oscillator wheel! 😂 Martin…. Do you happen to have a record of the readings for the stater in your 21646??? Quote
John Deats Posted March 2 Author Posted March 2 Yes I do. Won't be home until the 22nd. Will send it to you when I get home. 1 Quote
Marc Sova Posted March 2 Posted March 2 2 hours ago, John Deats said: Yes I do. Won't be home until the 22nd. Will send it to you when I get home. Thank you. I had to do some surgery and solder a broken magnet wire and I think I was successful. The readings I’m getting are like 118, 102 and 16 or something like that so I think I’m good although I thought generally that these older motors have lower readings. Maybe I’m thinking of the larger motor Emmy’s . Quote
Martin Carena-Santiago Posted March 3 Posted March 3 On 3/1/2025 at 5:11 PM, Marc Sova said: Martin…. Do you happen to have a record of the readings for the stater in your 21646??? I wish I could help, it's been about 10 years since I finished mine up. I read your posts that you were getting in the 110's across both windings, I feel like that's right around the normal ballpark. 2 Quote
Russ Huber Posted March 3 Posted March 3 14 hours ago, Marc Sova said: The readings I’m getting are like 118, 102 and 16 or something like that so I think I’m good although I thought generally that these older motors have lower readings. You're good. Never panic. 119.7, 103.1, 17.2 on one I have. 2 Quote
Marc Sova Posted March 20 Posted March 20 6 minutes ago, John Deats said: Thanks John. Yeah I got her going. Had to solder a broken magnet wire. It worked! 1 Quote
John Deats Posted April 26 Author Posted April 26 Well, it's finally finished. Had a few good days a couple of weeks ago, so I decided to paint the remaining parts. Finally assembled and wired this machine. It runs like a fine tuned swiss watch, even better. Very quiet running fan. Thanks to everyone for your input and ideas, and to those who supplied me with the parts needed to bring this project to near period correctness, if that's a word. I chose to keep the modern oscillator wheel. Well, here it is, this is it. 5 Quote
Marc Sova Posted April 26 Posted April 26 On 12/17/2024 at 4:28 PM, Russ Huber said: I am very confident she will be a good runner. The early models came with the long tag, the next is your model with rectangular tag, and to follow in EARLY 1917 they had the rectangular tag with carry handle. Your fan has the patented improved Parker blade with patent filed in Sept. 1925. Your original blade would have had a cast iron hub, but if this blade works for you, that is all that matters. 🙂 Oh wow!!!! I didn’t realize they made a version with this tag and no handle! Quote
Marc Sova Posted April 26 Posted April 26 1 hour ago, John Deats said: Well, it's finally finished. Had a few good days a couple of weeks ago, so I decided to paint the remaining parts. Finally assembled and wired this machine. It runs like a fine tuned swiss watch, even better. Very quiet running fan. Thanks to everyone for your input and ideas, and to those who supplied me with the parts needed to bring this project to near period correctness, if that's a word. I chose to keep the modern oscillator wheel. Well, here it is, this is it. Nice job! What’d you use for paint? 1 Quote
John Deats Posted April 27 Author Posted April 27 I start by using etching primer, then lightly sand to fill in any minor imperfections. Next I use a black primer to start the color process. 5hen I use rustoleum appliance epoxy. I use one coat of filler primer, one coat of black primer, then six coats of appliance epoxy. When applying the epoxy paint, I wait between 3 to 5 minutes between coats. The appliance epoxy paint almost matches identical to the original paint. I learned from Patrick Ray to keep or save as much of the original paint as possible. Most all of my fans have a section with original paint. 1 Quote
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