Daemen Cook Posted February 8 Posted February 8 Recently bought this fan in working order and slightly cosmetic damage. Cleaned out all the old grease in the oscillating gearbox and filled the oil port. It ran fine with no noises, but it spins down quick even after servicing. Low speed has a 17 second spin down, med has an 18 second spin down, and hi has a 20 second spin down. I use Zoomspout oil and Red N' Tacky for the grease. I only ask this question because most people that have fans nearly identical to these have a much better spin down than mine does. The blade has very little back and fourth play and everything else seems to work fine without issue. My first thought was bad bearings, but correct me if I'm wrong. I've also heard that these fans only have one bearing. This is the first Emerson I've owned, and am new to fans. Any help is much appreciated Quote
Patrick Ray Posted February 8 Posted February 8 You can feel if there's a bad bearing by holding the motor and moving the blade up and down to feel for play. Not saying it doesn't happen, but the bearing is very robust and usually doesn't wear down. It's one big bearing in there. Basically the entire middle of the rotor is the bearing and rides on a metal tube in the motor housing. The tube holds a good amount of oil and keeps that rotor well lubricated. I'd pull the rotor and make sure the oil holes in the shaft/tube are clear and able to supply oil to the rotor. There's 4 holes. 2 on the top, front and back. 2 on the bottom, front and back. Clean the surfaces before reinstalling the rotor to make sure there's no junk. I apply some oil to the shaft before sliding the rotor back. Quote
Michael Rathberger Posted February 8 Posted February 8 Is the oscillator engaged? I would think that would make it slow faster. Quote
Daemen Cook Posted February 8 Author Posted February 8 9 minutes ago, Patrick Ray said: You can feel if there's a bad bearing by holding the motor and moving the blade up and down to feel for play. Not saying it doesn't happen, but the bearing is very robust and usually doesn't wear down. It's one big bearing in there. Basically the entire middle of the rotor is the bearing and rides on a metal tube in the motor housing. The tube holds a good amount of oil and keeps that rotor well lubricated. I'd pull the rotor and make sure the oil holes in the shaft/tube are clear and able to supply oil to the rotor. There's 4 holes. 2 on the top, front and back. 2 on the bottom, front and back. Clean the surfaces before reinstalling the rotor to make sure there's no junk. I apply some oil to the shaft before sliding the rotor back. I'll be sure to check this out. Thank you much Quote
Daemen Cook Posted February 8 Author Posted February 8 9 minutes ago, Michael Rathberger said: Is the oscillator engaged? I would think that would make it slow faster. The oscillator was not engaged when I was testing for these numbers Quote
Mark Olson Posted February 8 Posted February 8 (edited) The Emerson single bearing is tapered. The back of the shaft is very slightly larger diameter than the front of the shaft, and the rotor is exactly similar. The end result of this is the ability to set the bearing clearance by adding or subtracting fiber washers from the back of the rotor. Of course, the end clearance must also be considered. If too much shim is removed from the back the rotor can bind. Some Emersons have too much clearance with all the washers out of the back, but it is rare to find one with that much bearing wear. Also, make sure the oil holes and grooves on the bearing shaft are clean and open. Edited February 8 by Mark Olson 1 Quote
Daemen Cook Posted February 9 Author Posted February 9 Update: the blade is extremely stuck. I've had a generous amount of penetrating oil ran down the hub in an attempt to soften the leather washer for over 12 hours and it's still stuck. Any tips on getting the blade unfroze from the threads? Quote
Patrick Ray Posted February 9 Posted February 9 For whatever reason, I've found these later Emersons to be more stuck than earlier ones. Just my luck or type of oil used from the factory? 🤷 Who knows. But you can try a heat gun to try and soften the gunk keeping the hub on. Caution! Hub will be hot! Use a pair of good gloves to spin that hub off. Remember: it's reverse threaded! Quote
Lane Shirey Posted February 16 Posted February 16 On 2/9/2025 at 2:49 PM, Daemen Cook said: Update: the blade is extremely stuck. I've had a generous amount of penetrating oil ran down the hub in an attempt to soften the leather washer for over 12 hours and it's still stuck. Any tips on getting the blade unfroze from the threads? Yes, heat gun will loosen it. Don’t apply too much torque on the wings or you can loosen the rivets. If it’s really stuck, wrap the hub with duct tape and use a vice grip for leverage. Quote
Marc Sova Posted March 22 Posted March 22 On 2/8/2025 at 3:11 PM, Mark Olson said: The Emerson single bearing is tapered. The back of the shaft is very slightly larger diameter than the front of the shaft, and the rotor is exactly similar. The end result of this is the ability to set the bearing clearance by adding or subtracting fiber washers from the back of the rotor. Of course, the end clearance must also be considered. If too much shim is removed from the back the rotor can bind. Some Emersons have too much clearance with all the washers out of the back, but it is rare to find one with that much bearing wear. Also, make sure the oil holes and grooves on the bearing shaft are clean and open. Such good information Mark. You’d mentioned it on my post the other day about rotor/ststor clearance and I’d never known about this. Quote
Marc Sova Posted March 22 Posted March 22 On 2/9/2025 at 3:10 PM, Patrick Ray said: For whatever reason, I've found these later Emersons to be more stuck than earlier ones. Just my luck or type of oil used from the factory? 🤷 Who knows. But you can try a heat gun to try and soften the gunk keeping the hub on. Caution! Hub will be hot! Use a pair of good gloves to spin that hub off. Remember: it's reverse threaded! Worst one I ever had was this AN. I’m not sure what the hell someone put in it for oil lol. Maybe spray lithium grease??? Lol. I finally got it cleaned up and running. Quote
Daemen Cook Posted June 17 Author Posted June 17 On 3/22/2025 at 6:54 PM, Marc Sova said: Worst one I ever had was this AN. I’m not sure what the hell someone put in it for oil lol. Maybe spray lithium grease??? Lol. I finally got it cleaned up and running. What did you do to get the blade off? I put heat to mine and it fixed the spin-down but I'd still like to get it apart one day and get all the components cleaned up. I even tried duct tape and a pair of vice grips on the hub and it tore through the tape and scratched my paint. Thankfully, the paint already isn't the greatest on the thing so I'm not too upset about it. I think mine was someone's garage fan, because there was some sort of dry and hardened brown substance on one of the blades and there's this black stuff all over every single blade and it looks to have splattered all over the fan (as seen in the picture below), so I don't think it was very well taken care of. Quote
Marc Sova Posted June 18 Posted June 18 How are you locking the rotor? For really hard to remove you have to use a grade 8 hardened bolt threaded into the upper left gearbox bolt hole. DONT use a regular bolt. If it bends or breaks off you’re screwed. You can also try to get some penetrant where the base of the hub seats against the old leather washer. Don’t spray it in there….speay some in a cup and use a small brush to apply a few drops at a time. You don’t want the penetrating getting all over the stator windings etc. Quote
Daemen Cook Posted June 18 Author Posted June 18 16 hours ago, Marc Sova said: How are you locking the rotor? For really hard to remove you have to use a grade 8 hardened bolt threaded into the upper left gearbox bolt hole. DONT use a regular bolt. If it bends or breaks off you’re screwed. You can also try to get some penetrant where the base of the hub seats against the old leather washer. Don’t spray it in there….speay some in a cup and use a small brush to apply a few drops at a time. You don’t want the penetrating getting all over the stator windings etc. I'll try that next time I go to take it apart. Thanks for the tips Quote
Paul Carmody Posted June 21 Posted June 21 (edited) I didn't see it come up .Are you turning the blade clockwise to loosen? Edited June 21 by Paul Carmody Quote
Daemen Cook Posted June 21 Author Posted June 21 5 hours ago, Paul Carmody said: I didn't see it come up .Are you turning the blade clockwise to loosen? Yes, I've been attempting to the blade clockwise in the times where I have tried to remove the blade Quote
Steve Sherwood Posted June 21 Posted June 21 Some times the blades are hard to get off. lock the rotor with a hardened 1/4 20 bolt 4 inches long. Use the top right hole of the oscillator to lock it down. Any of the other holes will damage the motor windings. Quote
Marc Sova Posted June 21 Posted June 21 (edited) On 6/21/2025 at 2:42 PM, Steve Sherwood said: Some times the blades are hard to get off. lock the rotor with a hardened 1/4 20 bolt 4 inches long. Use the top left hole of the oscillator to lock it down. Any of the other holes will damage the motor windings. I think you mean upper left hole Steve Edited June 23 by Marc Sova Quote
Daemen Cook Posted June 23 Author Posted June 23 On 6/21/2025 at 3:42 PM, Steve Sherwood said: Some times the blades are hard to get off. lock the rotor with a hardened 1/4 20 bolt 4 inches long. Use the top right hole of the oscillator to lock it down. Any of the other holes will damage the motor windings. Alright, noted. I appreciate all the help Quote
Marc Sova Posted June 23 Posted June 23 8 hours ago, Daemen Cook said: Alright, noted. I appreciate all the help Sent you a message here. Quote
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