Restoring a GE AH

[Chris Jacobsen]

Just picked up a budget GE type AH.  Complete less wooden blades.  The motor is pretty much seized as is the nose.  

1. Does the nose unscrew counter clockwise?  Before forcing, would lime to know.

2. Switch is crunched, can anyone ID the remains?  It did not exactly match the original GE switch pictured in previous posts no unsure if it is even GE.  Going to rebuild this and need to source a donor porcelain base.

 

Got a lot of work cut out for me now, did not finish the CF14s or Century yet so this will have to sit in queue for a while.

[Levi Mevis]

I believe the nose unscrews clockwise, I think its weird that every antique ceiling fan I've seen pictures of online (or mine) were painted other colors on top of the original colors.

[Chris Jacobsen]

12 hours ago, Levi Mevis said:

I believe the nose unscrews clockwise, I think its weird that every antique ceiling fan I've seen pictures of online (or mine) were painted other colors on top of the original colors.

Thanks Levi, will try unscrewing clockwise.  The only other fans that went clockwise (so far) that I have worked on have been Hunters.  

As for paint I agree, usually there are layers of historic paint.  This one is unusual as it seems untouched.  This and an Emerson roundnose have veen exceptions as they appear original finish.  Worst fan so far were the CF14s, they have about 5 coats, reminds me of a jawbreaker.

[Jack Minor]

5 hours ago, Chris Jacobsen said:

Thanks Levi, will try unscrewing clockwise.  The only other fans that went clockwise (so far) that I have worked on have been Hunters.  

As for paint I agree, usually there are layers of historic paint.  This one is unusual as it seems untouched.  This and an Emerson roundnose have veen exceptions as they appear original finish.  Worst fan so far were the CF14s, they have about 5 coats, reminds me of a jawbreaker.

There is a slotted setscrew within the switch housing. Loosen that first prior to unscrewing. The GE’s have left hand threads just like Hunter’s do. If it still won’t budge, throw a strap-wrench on it and give it the best “righty-loosey” UMPH you can give it. You should be able to break it loose! 

[Chris Jacobsen]

4 hours ago, Jack Minor said:

There is a slotted setscrew within the switch housing. Loosen that first prior to unscrewing. The GE’s have left hand threads just like Hunter’s do. If it still won’t budge, throw a strap-wrench on it and give it the best “righty-loosey” UMPH you can give it. You should be able to break it loose! 

Thanks for the heads up on the set screw and confirming rotation direction, will see if I can crank it free on Monday time allowing.  

[Chris Jacobsen]

Was not able to get it free, the nose is pretty much fused to the threads.  Probably need to resort to more drastic force I guess.  Was thinking of pushing phosphoric acid into the set screw hole to possibly reduce the rust.  Any thoughts short of slicing the nose in half?

[Dave Hoatson]

Remove the four plugs in the oil cup that are designed to add lights to. Stick a screwdriver through one hole and out the opposite one. This gives you a handle. 
 

Place the fan in a vise, cushioned by a sheet of rubber from an inner tube. Position it so the screwdriver rests inside the vise jaws to lock it from rotating. 
 

Grab the body of the fan and turn it. 

[Chris Jacobsen]

1 hour ago, Dave Hoatson said:

Remove the four plugs in the oil cup that are designed to add lights to. Stick a screwdriver through one hole and out the opposite one. This gives you a handle. 
 

Place the fan in a vise, cushioned by a sheet of rubber from an inner tube. Position it so the screwdriver rests inside the vise jaws to lock it from rotating. 
 

Grab the body of the fan and turn it. 

Hi Dave, that is a good plan will give it a shot.  I almost snapped a screwdriver cranking from the hole.  If that does not work I plan to buy another strap wrench and see if I can get a good grip on that. 

[Chris Jacobsen]

Finally got a strap wrench and creaked the nose free.  Surprisingly clean inside, bearing has very little wear BUT is rusty which means no thanks, getting a new one.  The bearing is definitely larger diameter than Hunter or Emerson so the search for a new one is on.  I really do not care for free floating bearings, at most having a top race will be good as the lower race might collect dirt.

[Tom Dreesen]

On 7/15/2023 at 2:54 AM, Levi Mevis said:

I believe the nose unscrews clockwise, I think its weird that every antique ceiling fan I've seen pictures of online (or mine) were painted other colors on top of the original colors.

I have restored CFs that had at least 10 coats of house paint on them.  Whenever the room was painted, they painted the fan also.

[Paul Michael]

On 7/21/2023 at 9:47 PM, Chris Jacobsen said:

Hi Dave, that is a good plan will give it a shot.  I almost snapped a screwdriver cranking from the hole.  If that does not work I plan to buy another strap wrench and see if I can get a good grip on that. 

I'll note - this technique is usually ok, but if it's really stuck, you likely WILL deform the internal threads. Just use two lengths of threaded rod, or wrap the shaft with a few turns of electric tape.

Better, use 4 threaded lengths, and rig/build a jig to apply force to ll four at once. (-; Less chance of ending the 'tools.'

(Use a hole saw on a 2x4, then dado two slots in an 'X' across the hole, or find something around that already fits, etc. You get the idea if you work on anything at all.)

Edited August 19, 2023 by Paul Michael

[Chris Jacobsen]

25 minutes ago, Paul Michael said:

I'll note - this technique is usually ok, but if it's really stuck, you likely WILL deform the internal threads. Just use two lengths of threaded rod, or wrap the shaft with a few turns of electric tape.

Better, use 4 threaded lengths, and rig/build a jig to apply force to ll four at once. (-; Less chance of ending the 'tools.'

(Use a hole saw on a 2x4, then dado two slots in an 'X' across the hole, or find something around that already fits, etc. You get the idea if you work on anything at all.)

Thanks Paul for the suggestions, I like the idea of using the motor as the handle, much more surface area to grab onto.  I ended up just getting one more strap wrench, sat on the motor and cranked with both hands, that was just enough to budge the nose and for the oil to work into the threads.  I was really afraid of messing up the lamp port threads and another Husky strap wrench was only $12.  Very good tips though and I appreciate your explanation.

[Chris Jacobsen]

4 hours ago, Tom Dreesen said:

I have restored CFs that had at least 10 coats of house paint on them.  Whenever the room was painted, they painted the fan also.

I hear you there, I have a couplf Emerson Fern Leaf fans that have about 5 coats of various paints on them from oil to latex.  I woild guess they may have been used in a store.  Funny how one coat was olive green. Guess it was a popular color, gives a peaceful feeling maybe.

[Paul Michael]

10 minutes ago, Chris Jacobsen said:

Thanks Paul for the suggestions, I like the idea of using the motor as the handle, much more surface area to grab onto.  I ended up just getting one more strap wrench, sat on the motor and cranked with both hands, that was just enough to budge the nose and for the oil to work into the threads.  I was really afraid of messing up the lamp port threads and another Husky strap wrench was only $12.  Very good tips though and I appreciate your explanation.

The best solution is always what works for you, where you are, and with what you've got handy! (Slow and steady.) 👍🏼

[Dave Hoatson]

Note that GE’s have a secret setscrew in the side of the oil cup that must be removed before the cup is unscrewed. 

[Chris Jacobsen]

5 hours ago, Dave Hoatson said:

Note that GE’s have a secret setscrew in the side of the oil cup that must be removed before the cup is unscrewed. 

Thanks Dave, I got it out before causing damage.  I used a strap wrench to crank the nose off, it was securely rusted...

[Paul Michael]

37 minutes ago, Chris Jacobsen said:

Thanks Dave, I got it out before causing damage.  I used a strap wrench to crank the nose off, it was securely rusted...

It was 'National Ceiling Fan Day' yesterday, or the day before... I forget. But there were no CFs on my agenda though.

About a month ago I did spend a couple days getting an early Century apart. Instead of oil, it's cup 'runneth over' with water and rust, for the last half-century or so, so it  seems. Shaft was rusted to the sleeve, even the rotor was rusted to the outer casting! FUN!!!

[Chris Jacobsen]

10 hours ago, Paul Michael said:

It was 'National Ceiling Fan Day' yesterday, or the day before... I forget. But there were no CFs on my agenda though.

About a month ago I did spend a couple days getting an early Century apart. Instead of oil, it's cup 'runneth over' with water and rust, for the last half-century or so, so it  seems. Shaft was rusted to the sleeve, even the rotor was rusted to the outer casting! FUN!!!

Ooh that is brutal...  the shaft is almost a foot long, how the heck did you get that free?

[Geoff Dunaway]

On 8/19/2023 at 7:13 AM, Tom Dreesen said:

I have restored CFs that had at least 10 coats of house paint on them.  Whenever the room was painted, they painted the fan also.

My Grandmother in Texarkana never missed the fan when she painted a room to freshen it up. 1938 snubnosed Emersons had 4-5 coats of housepaint but still ran.

[Evan Atkinson]

Suggestion: next time you go cranking on a rusted switch housing, liberally dose the threaded switch housing boss and center shaft threads with penetrant like Kroil and let it sit a day or so. Come back and apply heat. Use a torch, get it good and hot. Heat is your friend to separate rusted parts from each other. It has made every job both easier and actually possible (important 😂). Glad you got the switch housing off.