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R&M List 11530 - Restoration


Dave McManaman

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I recently picked up this R&M List 11530, 12” BB/BC “Gearback”. It was in unknown running condition. Cosmetically it should be fine. A little paint loss here and there (mostly around the base) and the bottom pan is very rusty. But the Japan should clean up nice. Missing two motor housing screws and, of course, the shoulder screw from the bottom of the oscillator wheel. No problem if I have to fabricate one till an original surfaces. So I’m starting on the electrical and mechanical review. Pulled the stator. Looks ok, the taps are a bit fragile and beat up but I get readings. That’s where I have my first question. Readings are: A-B 113, B-C 111, A-C 26. Thoughts?

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The oscillator linkage should have factory sleeved shoulders in the connecting holes on each end of the link. If not, you just get the correct diameter metal tubing and cut the shoulder sleeves yourself.  If memory serves me right the threading on the oscillator wheel to connect the linkage is 8-32.  This is how I cheated the missing shoulder screw. I liked the look of it better than the original. 🙂

You can match up the missing motor screws with brass slotted round heads at ACE.  Never panic. 

 

 

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Edited by Russ Huber
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3 hours ago, Russ Huber said:

… just get the correct diameter metal tubing and cut the shoulder sleeves yourself.  If memory serves me right the threading on the oscillator wheel to connect the linkage is 8-32.  This is how I cheated the missing shoulder screw. I liked the look of it better than the original. 🙂

You can match up the missing motor screws with brass slotted round heads at ACE.  Never panic. 

 

Thanks Russ. Actually, I stole your technique for the bottom shoulder screw on my List 1159 a couple years back and it worked great! You had a nice post on the old site. Here’s a picture of how it turned out:

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Thank! And Ace is the place for slotted brass. I try to keep an assortment of sizes on hand. 

I went back and looked at my notes from the 1159 and the stator readings were 36, 36, and 22  so significantly different. But the 1159 also has a halo on the switch coil  So there are other differences

 

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13 minutes ago, Dave McManaman said:

Thanks Russ. Actually, I stole your technique for the bottom shoulder screw on my List 1159 a couple years back and it worked great! You had a nice post on the old site. Here’s a picture of how it turned out:

IMG_5595.thumb.jpeg.e61f72012b18546f1f5b317630037f61.jpeg

Thank! And Ace is the place for slotted brass. I try to keep an assortment of sizes on hand. 

I went back and looked at my notes from the 1159 and the stator readings were 36, 36, and 22  so significantly different. But the 1159 also has a halo on the switch coil  So there are other differences

 

Sometimes it is hard to keep track of whose ideas we're initially "borrowing" from. 🙂

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Thanks for the refresher. I forgot it was Mr Newcity’s scetch etc that you’d shared. That knurled knob makes for a great look and it works better for my worn fingers!

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11 hours ago, Dave McManaman said:

Ohm readings on the stator: A-B 113, B-C 111, A-C 26. Thoughts?

What exactly are you looking for, Dave? If the ohm readings are good or bad? FWIW....I had a 1404 stator a few months back with similar ohm readings. My two higher ohm readings were close like yours, only higher. 

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On 12/4/2023 at 10:36 AM, Russ Huber said:

What exactly are you looking for, Dave? If the ohm readings are good or bad? FWIW....I had a 1404 stator a few months back with similar ohm readings. My two higher ohm readings were close like yours, only higher. 

Thanks Russ. I was surprised they were that low. I’ve got a 16” 11590. Quite a bit higher. I figured I’d get an idea if there was something wrong before going to far with the rest of it. 

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