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Century ceiling fan


Dan Nguyen

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I started to rewind a friend's Century ceiling fan motor.

I hope someone has done this and shared the experience.

I will rewire it for 220 volts.

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

I'm having trouble and need your help with this Century ceiling fan. I have rewired all the coils to the correct manufacturer's design, but the problem is that it cannot self-start to start.
I'm thinking that the speed coil is an indispensable component in the starting process for this fan, is what I think correct? I hope someone here shares with me as much information about how it starts, as many pictures as possible, so I can figure out how the coils are connected.

Thank you!

 

 

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The smaller coils around single poles are pole shade windings. The shade windings cause the fan to start in one direction or the other.

I will find a diagram later on this afternoon that may help you. Basically, the shade windings are not powered, but rather connected start to start and finish to finish sequentially around the motor. A switch may be installed to cause the motor to start in the other direction.

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Hi Dan, maybe these will help you see. I may be incorrect on my initial assessment of your motor, but for now, I stand with it.

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Edited by Mark Olson
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Dan; that is a very interesting design! I commented on your post on Facebook, as well; however now I see more and better pictures here. It's interesting that the smaller windings are concentric to each pole of the main winding, and in alternating polarity. It would seem as if they are no more than "additional turns" in the same magnetic orientation to the main winding. Regardless of what sort of phase shift happens, it is hard to understand how this could create initial rotation at startup. If they are shorted and used as shading coils, that also is confusing since they aren't offset to one side or the other to create rotation.  Question from a very different angle - were there any ceiling fans which required manual starting and had no built-in self-starting capability?

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On 2/23/2024 at 7:51 AM, David Allen said:

...were there any ceiling fans which required manual starting and had no built-in self-starting capability?

Manual start,...
                   manual run.

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21 hours ago, Jim Kovar said:

Manual start,...
                   manual run.

And reversible!

This is hilarious!

On a less humorous note; I expect this was engineered for a time when involuntary / uncompensated manual labor was a thing; so to speak.

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21 hours ago, Mark Olson said:

Don't ask where the shaded pole is

"Shaded,"...     so I'd guess,
where the sun don't shine?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you all for your help, the information is very helpful to me!
I believe that, with your help, I will complete the motor rewinding for this Century ceiling fan.

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  • 1 month later...

Awesome post, a little off topic but I noticed the stator plates are separating, I assume from oxidation between them.  Does anyone have opinions on if it is practical to remove that oxidation by separating the layers?  Or is is just best to source another stator if there is oxidation like that?

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2 hours ago, Chris Jacobsen said:

Awesome post, a little off topic but I noticed the stator plates are separating, I assume from oxidation between them.  Does anyone have opinions on if it is practical to remove that oxidation by separating the layers?  Or is is just best to source another stator if there is oxidation like that?

One does not need to worry about the rust between laminations, as long as most of the iron is still there. The rust is an insulator and does not have any detrimental effects, in fact, it may be considered advantageous.

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1 minute ago, Mark Olson said:

One does not need to worry about the rust between laminations, as long as most of the iron is still there. The rust is an insulator and does not have any detrimental effects, in fact, it may be considered advantageous.

Thanks Mark,

Well I have an Emerson Trojan I think (36641) but it seems like the motor was left outside for some time, the rust has expanded considerably, rotor is locked and a number of the laminations are fanning out due to oxidation to the point where a couple actually touch the front grille.  I think it wise to re-wind it but before putting in that effort I need some confidence that the stator will actually be safe and reliable.  It will be a bear to restore.

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1 minute ago, Chris Jacobsen said:

Thanks Mark,

Well I have an Emerson Trojan I think (36641) but it seems like the motor was left outside for some time, the rust has expanded considerably, rotor is locked and a number of the laminations are fanning out due to oxidation to the point where a couple actually touch the front grille.  I think it wise to re-wind it but before putting in that effort I need some confidence that the stator will actually be safe and reliable.  It will be a bear to restore.

If the rust is so bad as to have expanded the stator to cause interference, then the best approach to saving the original would be to disassemble the stack, clean, and reassemble.

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13 minutes ago, Mark Olson said:

If the rust is so bad as to have expanded the stator to cause interference, then the best approach to saving the original would be to disassemble the stack, clean, and reassemble.

Ok, will check to see the feasibility of this, will likely be drilling out a bunch of snapped bolt heads.  Would there be any particular type of coating recommended if I were to grind the layers clean?  

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15 hours ago, Chris Jacobsen said:

Ok, will check to see the feasibility of this, will likely be drilling out a bunch of snapped bolt heads.  Would there be any particular type of coating recommended if I were to grind the layers clean?  

Don't grind, use a wire brush instead. Phosphoric acid forms a protective coating on the rusty iron. I use phosphoric acid and detergent in an ultrasonic cleaner, then rinse with water and bake dry.

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Thanks Mark, good call on the phosphoric acid.  Is it that the stuff from POR15 that supposedly leaves a zinc coating? 

Will try wire brushing, are the plates welded or glued together or just loose like in the speed coils?  I know newer stators are usually welded for good reason, this would be my first real stator restore as I have never encountered rust so severe and windings so degenerated.

Also, is it best to dip the completed stator and windings in some sort of lacquer to seal from future moisture?

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Chris, I do not want to further hijack this thread. Please start another one or feel free to P.M. me.

Thanks

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2 hours ago, Mark Olson said:

Chris, I do not want to further hijack this thread. Please start another one or feel free to P.M. me.

 

Got it Mark, will open up another thread once I get the stator excavated from its rusty nest.

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