James Gaspard Posted April 29 Author Share Posted April 29 On 3/11/2024 at 8:21 PM, Stan Adams said: James, Jay Bernard over in Thibodaux can help you of you need him Hi Stan Adams, Could you put me in touch with Jay Bernard in Thibodaux? I can't seem to find him here since I'm not a member? As a guest I have no ability to contact or access profiles of members? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Roadt Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 3 hours ago, James Gaspard said: I'm sorry, I picked your post on 4/12 with the black fan with brass blades and cage to quote thinking the post was yours? I love that fan! The peerless hat polisher/fan is mine . Trevor Andersen restored the motor tag and did an amazing job considering what poor condition it was in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Gaspard Posted April 30 Author Share Posted April 30 I agree! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm MacGregor Posted May 4 Share Posted May 4 I have used the products that David Kilnapp recommends. I don’t claim to have best methods and skills. However his method is straight forward and efficient. I find the use of a heat gun on low near the badge blown over the clear coat helps. I’m in Florida where humidity can interfere with clear coats. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Wendel Posted May 4 Share Posted May 4 Be sure to mask over the stampings (volts, type, cycles, etc) so to not get paint down in the numbers. That will also save you on paint removal effort on those big flat areas. I suggest wooden popcicle sticks as a primary tool for scraping paint off the raised areas without scratching the underlying brass. You can buy a bag of them at the hardware store. Plastic collar stiffeners from a mens dress shirt also work well (you can get a bag of those too). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lane Shirey Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 4 hours ago, Doug Wendel said: Be sure to mask over the stampings (volts, type, cycles, etc) so to not get paint down in the numbers. That will also save you on paint removal effort on those big flat areas. I suggest wooden popcicle sticks as a primary tool for scraping paint off the raised areas without scratching the underlying brass. You can buy a bag of them at the hardware store. Plastic collar stiffeners from a mens dress shirt also work well (you can get a bag of those too). And bamboo sandwich picks. Get them at a restaurant supply store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Sova Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 On 5/4/2024 at 3:55 PM, Doug Wendel said: Be sure to mask over the stampings (volts, type, cycles, etc) so to not get paint down in the numbers. That will also save you on paint removal effort on those big flat areas. I suggest wooden popcicle sticks as a primary tool for scraping paint off the raised areas without scratching the underlying brass. You can buy a bag of them at the hardware store. Plastic collar stiffeners from a mens dress shirt also work well (you can get a bag of those too). Don’t you want paint down inside the letters? Or….i guess they wouldn’t have had paint in there originally….and any dark we see on a nice but unrestored fan is just dirt and grime from the decades? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Cornish Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 Chris Campbell, great tutorial. I've had success using a similar method but laid the sandpaper on a very flat surface and moved the badge it to remove the paint in the high areas of lettering. It seems like you are using small bits of sandpaper for really fine lettering, how are you holding them? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Campbell Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 (edited) 16 minutes ago, Andy Cornish said: Chris Campbell, great tutorial. I've had success using a similar method but laid the sandpaper on a very flat surface and moved the badge it to remove the paint in the high areas of lettering. It seems like you are using small bits of sandpaper for really fine lettering, how are you holding them? Thanks I take small pieces of sandpaper and fold in half 2-3 times. Creates a stiff point that can work off paint. When point looses the grit refold paper for new clean point. I never pick or scrape paint off. This is just paper but an example: Edited May 10 by Chris Campbell 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Cornish Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 Ingenious, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Sova Posted Tuesday at 02:20 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 02:20 PM On 3/17/2024 at 9:28 AM, Chris Campbell said: I do initially clean with toilet bowl cleaner and again before clearing. Purpose of initially cleaning is to knock off any film over past 100 years that could allow paint from adhering in places. Paint that lifts when wet sanding is no fun. Hot water and toilet bowl cleaner used again once finished to strip off any polish and grit on painted fields before clearing. I never use anything aerosol. Purpose of airbrush is to have full control of fluid flow and anything aerosol never compares. Start by cleaning as above with toilet bowl cleaner. Sometimes scrubbed with toothbrush if crusty. Rinse with hot water for clean surface. Airbrush base color or flat enamel. Enamel is harder vs acrylic or mystery paints found in aerosols. Remove paint from high brass areas with small pieces of 1000 grit sand paper wet sanded with soap water. Soapy water allows sand paper to glide easily. Any areas of paint removed unintentionally are spot touched up with airbrush. This could be as small as 1/8” area vs starting over again. Once high areas knocked down with 1000 grit then use 1500 and 2000 to remove sanding marks. After that a non solvent based polish and cotton tshirt. The tag or badge will have grit and polish residue. To clean use toilet bowl cleaner / hot water again. Then clear. When I use lacquer will do a light dusting then additional dustings with airbrush until satisfied. This will lock the surface and prevent wrinkling of paint or bleeding when using light coats. If using urethane generally just one heavy coat. Airbrushes provide control vs anything you will ever find in a can. The idea is to have the thinnest layers of paint that are solid enough to block brass surface and thin enough to easily be removed where needed. Easily touched up when needed. Airbrushes will give you adjustable 1/8” through 1” paint pattern radius. This badge is white primer, white base, pearl layer and then urethane. 4 layers of painted material. It is perfect and took multiple attempts. I also use an airbrush opened up to 1” pattern to lacquer brass blades. Low air pressure does not kick dust into wet lacquer and avoids orange peel both of which work against mirrored brass. Amazing work Chris again. So what’s the process for reinstalling that motor tag with rivets? I have a DC Emerson, where the field coils are sort of mounted to the inside of the motor so I don’t even know if I can get to the backside of the rivets. For that matter even on a fan where you can remove the stater how is it done? Do you sort of get a little tool on the inside to hold the back of the rivet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Campbell Posted Tuesday at 05:09 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 05:09 PM (edited) 2 hours ago, Marc Sova said: Amazing work Chris again. So what’s the process for reinstalling that motor tag with rivets? I have a DC Emerson, where the field coils are sort of mounted to the inside of the motor so I don’t even know if I can get to the backside of the rivets. For that matter even on a fan where you can remove the stater how is it done? Do you sort of get a little tool on the inside to hold the back of the rivet? The DC’s have a cast shoe that is either part of the housing as with ball motors or attaches with two screws such as with the 9” and the 10” prohibiting access to the bottom rivet for pushing out. I used a razorblade to slide under motor tag and lifted tag pushing up rivets maybe 1/32-1/16…. Just enough to get a pair of pliers to rivet head and pull outwards. Some people have drilled down into rivet head but I have no experience with that approach. Edited Tuesday at 05:15 PM by Chris Campbell 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Gaspard Posted Tuesday at 06:54 PM Author Share Posted Tuesday at 06:54 PM On 3/11/2024 at 8:21 PM, Stan Adams said: James, Jay Bernard over in Thibodaux can help you of you need him I just can't get any response after both emailing and phone calling with contact info left on both? I don't want to "push" so I've been waiting for two to three weeks just in case they're out of town? Please forward my concerns if you here from them (Jay & his wife) so that I can know where to stop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Sova Posted Tuesday at 07:57 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 07:57 PM 2 hours ago, Chris Campbell said: The DC’s have a cast shoe that is either part of the housing as with ball motors or attaches with two screws such as with the 9” and the 10” prohibiting access to the bottom rivet for pushing out. I used a razorblade to slide under motor tag and lifted tag pushing up rivets maybe 1/32-1/16…. Just enough to get a pair of pliers to rivet head and pull outwards. Some people have drilled down into rivet head but I have no experience with that approach. Hmmmm. Interesting. And then reinstallation????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Campbell Posted Tuesday at 08:14 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 08:14 PM 16 minutes ago, Marc Sova said: Hmmmm. Interesting. And then reinstallation????? New rivets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Sova Posted Wednesday at 01:12 AM Share Posted Wednesday at 01:12 AM 4 hours ago, Chris Campbell said: New rivets Of course….but how do you support the backside of the rivet in the interior of the motor housing though. Cause I assume one is hammering from the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Campbell Posted Wednesday at 02:27 AM Share Posted Wednesday at 02:27 AM (edited) 1 hour ago, Marc Sova said: Of course….but how do you support the backside of the rivet in the interior of the motor housing though. Cause I assume one is hammering from the top. In my case the holes for rivets did not fully extend through the housing so they do not bend over like you find with AC. I measured the depth, trimmed length of rivet, slightly bent stem of rivet and tapped it in. The bend in rivet stem plus being soft brass was enough for it to bind and compress in the hole and stay snug. Edited Wednesday at 02:42 AM by Chris Campbell 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Huber Posted Wednesday at 03:00 AM Share Posted Wednesday at 03:00 AM These no. 18 blades attached to a wood chiseling tool works slick to slip under a tag to lift the rivets high enough to grab and extract. I have a vintage Dexter wood handle tool sporting the no. 18 blade (.025 thick and 1/2" wide). The tool comes in handy for other fan related restoration needs. I bought the Dexter wood handle tool at a flea market, I don't think they make them anymore, I can't find one image of another like it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Huber Posted Wednesday at 05:14 AM Share Posted Wednesday at 05:14 AM Some rivets are most stubborn to remove using this method. Once the stator and rotor are removed, you have access from the inside to angle a drift punch to drive those stubborn puppies out enough to grab. 🙂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Huber Posted Wednesday at 05:33 AM Share Posted Wednesday at 05:33 AM Psssssssssst..........In the event I bend the corners or edges of the tag with stubborn rivets trying to get it off, never panic. I have a one hand carry Jeweler's anvil and a rubber/plastic option hammer to tap it back in shape. 🙂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Sova Posted Wednesday at 11:08 AM Share Posted Wednesday at 11:08 AM Thanks Russ and Chris. Russ, if I saw that wooden handled tool at a flea market without a blade inserted I don’t think I would have a clue what it was for lol. Although i want to know about this for most of my fans, I’m mostly asking about my 75046, which, doesn’t really have a stator that comes out. The field coils are sort of mounted directly to the motor housing apparently? So…access to the bacK of the rivets is problematic (just not gonna attempt to remove those coils). In the event that I do a total repaint, Keri g the tag in place is not an options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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