Alan Chereson Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 Hello, I need help with a Fan. This site has been helpful already with suggestions for a capacitor, grease, etc. I hope you can help. GE Fan 78x236, 16" Pedestal Vortalex 1. Wiring. I want to make sure I get this right > From the power cord, does the black wire tie directly into the switch? > From the Stator coil, does the Black wire also go to the switch? > I want to re wire with a 3 wire solution, where does the ground go for the new power cable, I assume I can screw into the base 2. There are two housings in the pictures attached that look like they should have bearings. Should they? When I took the fan apart, there were no signs of bearing pieces/fractures, etc. Just looks like a bearing housing. 3. The wires going into the Stator Assembly that are really worn out. Look like the could be touching. > If I can not rewire successfully, is there a place may to get parts, a replacement assembly > Is there a way to disassemble the stamp housing and re solder new wires ? < any suggestion, pics attached 4. Lastly. Any place to order manuals for these old fans Any help is appreciated Alan Chereson Davisburg MI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Olson Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 (edited) Answers: 1: Yes, power cord to switch Yes, motor black to switch (the other terminal) Green ground to the frame of the fan 2: The bearings are the bronze pieces you see in the housings 3: Heat shrink tubing slipped over the wires (and heat shrinked) should be sufficient 4: I don't know of any, but you may get lucky if Google is your friend Edited March 8 by Mark Olson typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm MacGregor Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 Alan, I restored this exact fan last May. I love this fan. I always draw my circuits out so that most people can understand the circuit. So I hope you find my drawing helpful and useful. one additional note, I replace the 3.0uf capacitor with a 2.5uf 450v. I did this to slow the speed down. It runs great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Chereson Posted March 15 Author Share Posted March 15 guys , great This is great help. Putting it back together tomorrow. One other question As the power cord runs up the main shaft, when you extend you need say ~4-4.5' foot of cord, but when you havce it lowered, the cord only needs to be ~2' long. How is this handled, where does the extra cord go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Chereson Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 Please, I need some more help. I clean up and put the fan back together. The electrical still seems to be my issue. When I turn the fan on I get a buzz or hum noise in any of the three fan positions and the rotor is not turning. what are possible causes? I fear I have a wire crossed. In the picture above there is a green/white/black. From my picture above I had a black, red and what could have been green/white. My black should be OK and go to the upper and lower switch (speed coli and switch). I have the red going to the Cap, and green/white to power white. Does this sound right? what can cause the hum? I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Rockwell Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 Bravo Malcolm MacGregor... (and Mark Olson as well) --- you nailed it with that diagram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Lindsey Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 Take a picture from the side and post it please. The front motor cover has to be flush with the back cover. If not the rotor is crooked and locks up when you turn it on causing a buzzing sound Post picture from the side please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Olson Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 You should identify your motor wires as to which windings they correspond to. Do you have access to an ohm meter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Chereson Posted April 16 Author Share Posted April 16 On 3/21/2024 at 9:11 AM, Anthony Lindsey said: Take a picture from the side and post it please. The front motor cover has to be flush with the back cover. If not the rotor is crooked and locks up when you turn it on causing a buzzing sound Post picture from the side please Finally had time to get back in the garage. Thanks for the hint, I will try that tommorrow and take some more pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Chereson Posted April 16 Author Share Posted April 16 On 3/21/2024 at 9:36 AM, Mark Olson said: You should identify your motor wires as to which windings they correspond to. Do you have access to an ohm meter? Yes I do. I did that today based on the values Malcom posted above. the #'s were exactly the same, but close. So, although I am not sure, I think I have the wires identified correctly. I will take some better pictures tomorrow night and post again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Chereson Posted April 16 Author Share Posted April 16 If there is anyone in MI, that wants to earn a few extra $, I am willing to bring the Fan over and get some help!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lane Shirey Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 (edited) Does the rotor spins freely when you spin it by hand? If not, these have self centering bearings that can get cocked sideways and put pressure on the rotor shaft. As you’re tightening the screws that hold the motor halves together, tighten them a little, then tap sharply all around the rotor shaft stub with a screwdriver handle. Verify that the shaft spins freely, then tighten the screws a little more, and repeat until they’re tight. The tapping will center the bearings. When the motor screws are tight, the rotor shaft should spin freely, if not you’ll have to take it back apart and start again. And what has already been mentioned about the motor housings being fully seated into each other. If they’re not fully seated, the same jamming will occur Edited April 16 by Lane Shirey 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lane Shirey Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 (edited) Secondly, did you test/ replace the capacitor? I’d replace it just to be sure. The old ones are filled with oil containing PCBs, so when they leak, they make a hazardous mess. Thirdly, the fan did not originally have a ground, so any green wire you find in the fan, doesn’t attach to ground. Edited April 16 by Lane Shirey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Chereson Posted April 18 Author Share Posted April 18 On 3/9/2024 at 11:41 AM, Malcolm MacGregor said: Alan, I restored this exact fan last May. I love this fan. I always draw my circuits out so that most people can understand the circuit. So I hope you find my drawing helpful and useful. one additional note, I replace the 3.0uf capacitor with a 2.5uf 450v. I did this to slow the speed down. It runs great. BTW the way, looks like you did a great job restoring, looks like new! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Chereson Posted April 18 Author Share Posted April 18 On 4/16/2024 at 7:46 AM, Lane Shirey said: Secondly, did you test/ replace the capacitor? I’d replace it just to be sure. The old ones are filled with oil containing PCBs, so when they leak, they make a hazardous mess. Thirdly, the fan did not originally have a ground, so any green wire you find in the fan, doesn’t attach to ground. Yep replaced the cap. The shaft spins but there is resistance. I plan to work on this again tonight and will send some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm MacGregor Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 Alan, if you don’t have a volt/ohm meter, you’re not going to make any progress. You can’t troubleshoot your issue. Also the point about the motor not spinning freely needs fixing. I just tried spinning my blade and is free of resistance and spins freely. The front and rear motor screws do affect this motor spinning free. One other comment about extending the fan up/down and the power cord. The shaft had a spring coil inside that protected the power cord. Mine was partly damaged so I wrapped the power cord in friction tape, not electrical tape. And that upper shaft is brass plated and will polish up nicely.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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