Mike Morris Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 I found this BMY and despite its obvious problems brought it home. The price was low, and I didn't have a BMY, so why not take a chance. My questions are about blade and speed numbers. I heated the brass spider and have the wings pulled back forward. My question is about the pitch of the blades. I am measuring by placing a straight edge on the hub that faces the motor and measuring down to the "upper and lower" rivets that are farthest from hub. I have four different sets of measurements. Two are reasonably close the others are not. What is the correct pitch? I have an SMY waiting to be redone, are the blades the same pitch? I could just use it as a reference. Would I be better off trying to find a replacement blade? Next question is about the speed numbers. It looks like some one painted them over and re-applied them. The picture doesn't show it but there are very fine brush marks in the black paint immediately around the speed numbers. Could this have been a touch up at the factory? If it is, I may keep it that way, if not base will probably get repainted. Any and all input is appreciated. Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron May Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 I have a BMY that has the same speed number situation. What it tells me is the base was repainted, but they taped over the speed numbers to avoid having to replace them. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Stephens Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 (edited) I have found that a GE blade, when unbent, will have the leading edges of each wing touching evenly all along each of the leading edge when the blade is set on a flat surface. Edited February 22, 2022 by Steve Stephens 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Carmody Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 (edited) I have a BMY with the same thing on the numbers.Exact same pattern.All appears to be original paint. Three the same?I'm going out on a limb and say it's more than coincidence. Edited February 22, 2022 by Paul Carmody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Carmody Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 (edited) I polished mine so it harder to see.I had to pic in low light because of glare, but before it looked just like the top two. Edited February 22, 2022 by Paul Carmody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Kilnapp Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 Your numbers are original. I would agree that someone taped them off and did a re-spray. Should you decide to do a repaint, there are decals that are available that exactly duplicate the originals. As to the blade pitch, I would guess that the pitch of the blades is correct so all you need to do is pull the blade spiders forward. I would use a torch to heat the spider so that you can use a rubber mallet to tap each of the arms (that hold the blades) forward until (as Steve Stephens says) all the leading edges are touching a flat surface. Finally, I would rotate the blade on an axle and "eye" it to make sure that the pitches are more or less the same. You can also check for balance too. I'd be interested to know what you paid for that BMY if you could perhaps PM me. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lane Shirey Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 I believe the original decals were metallic water slide decals like were on the old singer sewing machines. That’s why they’re often seen as a silver or white color. They were originally gold, but the water slides were multi layer, with a silver metallic base, a gold tint layer and a clear protective layer. Solvents or especially ammonia (windex) dissolves the layers, leaving silver. never use windex to clean a singer sewing machine. It will remove all the color layers and you’ll wind up with only silver decals. I found that out the hard way. So therefore, I think the outline or haze that you see isn’t so much a tape line for a repaint, as it is the clear carrier film of the decal. I have several BMYs and R&Ms that I know have original paint, and you can see that outline. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Carmody Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 The lettering on mine are mostly gold.Bad pic.The 3 is worn to mostly silver as Lane said.I knew the halo was too consistent in shape on the three examples to be someone repainting.I'm going with Lane on this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Carmody Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 In the pic I sent above it can be seen the bakelite on the switch is missing.I used two layers of heat shrink on the bare metal.It came out so neat and clean I may leave it instead of fabricating a new one.So it's not as shocking as it looks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Kelly Posted February 25, 2022 Share Posted February 25, 2022 I have a BMY with the exact look over the speed numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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