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Help with first fan, Emerson 24666


Ben Smith

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I'm new to the fan world.  I've been wanting to own a vintage fan for use during the summer in our kitchen.  I picked up an Emerson 24666, complete, but a mess.  I started to take it apart to take a look at the motor.  Came apart pretty nicely.  The stator came out OK. 

Are there recommendations on how to remove the rotor?  The rotor is stiff when turning by hand, but I'm not sure if it should spin free.

Does any of this look like it can be cleaned and reinstalled and actually run?  Before you answer, the shaft that drives the oscillation is quite rusty where it runs through the rotor, which is making me worry.

Any info on how to proceed would be great.

Kindest,

Ben.

 

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I have absolutely no doubt this fan can run quickly with very little effort. From the photos here, I don’t see any major damage. It looks great and you have a really nice starter fan!! 
 

There are lots of how to videos out there but this one is usually my go to to show noobies. Very informative and this one in particular is nearly identical to yours other than you have a bigger motor and 6 blades. 

Cheers!!

 

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@Ben Smith I love my Emerson 6 wing fans! Robust design and fairly easy to work on. It will be the perfect fan for running in your kitchen as this is Emerson's "residential model". 

The oscillator shaft can just be wire wheeled clean. As long as the tip and gear is in good shape, you'll be good to go. I've had a couple sticky rotors. They should spin freely. Probably just gunked up oil. You've already got the brass rotor retaining nut off. So just twist it and pull straight out. If it's really gunked up, lay the motor on it's back and get some penetrating oil down between the rotor and oil tube. That should help break up the sludge. 

After getting the rotor off, clean the tube inside and out. There are 4 oil ports on this tube that allow oil to get between the tube and rotor for lubrication (2 on top, 2 on bottom, front and back).  Make sure these are clean. 

With a multimeter, check the ohms of the stator between the 3 wires. These 3 values (based on the various combinations) will tell you if the stator is in good condition. It will also tell you what wire gets hooked up where on the switch. Some clear electrical insulating varnish is recommended for the stator before you reinstall. 

Fellow member Tony Clayton makes beautiful replacement wire for these fans. Very flexible, very accurate. He can also do custom wire as well. Reach out to him. Seth Anderson makes good replacement cord grommets. I would suggest new red fiber washers be used throughout. Amazon has multi packs. Sometimes the replacements are metric; a little shave with a razor blade will give you an appropriate inner diameter. 

Lots of great members here with a wealth of knowledge to help you with your rebuild. Welcome to the group! Keep us updated with your progress!

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Not a problem. This is a great community. It's helped me grow from not knowing anything about fans to becoming a pretty decent restorer in a few years. 

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You have a great fan there.  The xx666 fans are a dream to use every day, and the 24666 is a personal favorite of mine.  Mine is a bit older with a smaller base and a brass cage.

Just take it slow and ask questions here.  I agree with everything Patrick stated above.

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Your never to old to learn a new trick!  That E29646 video is packed with good ideas. I didn’t know the trick on heating screw heads and using a brass bush and a dremmel tool to plate the screw head. I ordered the brass brush tool and can’t wait to try it out!!

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It is usually that one number is high and the other two are much lower. The lower two usually add up close to or around the bigger number. Your numbers sound slightly weird but they could still be fine.

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20 hours ago, Ben Smith said:

I measured the ohms on the stator last night, 140, 130, 18.  What values should they be?

Ohms look close to right. Typically you get a value in the teens for the low number. Mid hundreds sound good. The difference between the two higher values should equal (roughly) the low value.

Example: 140-130=10

I'm sure if you measure them again, your meter will settle out on more accurate numbers. 

These values also help determine where the 3 wires connect to the switch assembly (choke). John McComas drew up this diagram, and it's widely used on many of our Emersons. 

Screenshot_20220110-211902.thumb.png.6a7dde4710118f6f6655efc8f5b3a965.png

Edited by Patrick Ray
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14 minutes ago, Ben Smith said:

Patrick, this will help a bunch!  Thanks!

 

Not a problem Ben! Just wanna see your Emmy up and running again!

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It runs but sounds kinda slow and the speed controller may toast as I could not hear a pitch change with the different speeds.  I ordered a laser style tach to check.  What rpm should it run?  Also, the ohms on the controller are 6.5, 5.5, 3.8 (low to high speeds).    

 

 

 

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Many of these fans show little to no difference in speeds due to modern line voltages being, in many instances, above 120v.

That 10+ volts higher matters. Use a variac set for 110v, then measure fan speed. Still little difference, a custom wound coil

might be a solution, or use the variac for speed control.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Body is getting powder coated.  Still need to spray insulate/varnish the stator.  Now gathering more parts.  I've reached out for the wiring and grommets, but need a size for hollow brass rivets for reattaching the blades post polishing.  I've used the search function, but didn't get a lot.  Thanks!

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Here's what I use for rivets (from Jay-Cee Rivet) along with a #26 drill bit. I also anneal the rivets before setting them. Helps keep them from splitting and makes them easier to set. I just use a little butane torch to get them cherry red then quench them.180092080_Screenshot_20220505-1813252.thumb.png.050c4042c30d1b936ae4bed7dc055355.png

The dies and die holder I got from Hanson Rivet and Supply.  

Screenshot_20220403-205122.thumb.png.bb5ee6b19567915e6aaf3e3c02d2f46f.png

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12 hours ago, Patrick Ray said:

Not a problem Ben!

Patrick,

Is that a semi-tubular rivet you are recommending for that cast hub?   I am having a hard time understanding that Jaycee catalog page.  Thanks.

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The part number with the red arrow is a semi tubular that I use for the stamped hubs. The other part number is a semi tubular that I'm going to try with the cast hubs. I know, not original. But I don't want to risk busting a cast hub with a solid rivet. I know more experienced guys use solids, but as I am new to riveting cast, I want to play it safe. 

Side note, the last digit in the part number is the letter O not the number 0. That may make it easier to find the rivet on their site. 

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On 4/11/2022 at 10:49 PM, Ben Guegain said:

...no shortage of experts and old farts willing to help.

"Old farts," you say?

Would you please post a list
of names for that category?

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