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GE Collar Gear CAD


Louis Luu
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Amazing work Louis,

The nose cone looks great! The gears look like they need some smoothing. I have a vibratory tumbler and some plastic pyramid cutting media and walnut shell media... I think you will need something a little more aggressive to cut with. 

Did you order gears from Shapeways in brass or just stainless? 

What are the press plates for badges you speak of?

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5 minutes ago, Fred Summers said:

Amazing work Louis,

The nose cone looks great! The gears look like they need some smoothing. I have a vibratory tumbler and some plastic pyramid cutting media and walnut shell media... I think you will need something a little more aggressive to cut with. 

Did you order gears from Shapeways in brass or just stainless? 

What are the press plates for badges you speak of?

I only ordered stainless steel...more durable and much tougher than brass.  I will look into a tumbler and abrasive media.  Press plate is something I have been toying around with for making badges the old fashion way.  That is another skill I want to learn how to do.  The gears look rougher than actual due to the magnification.  Abrasive media and a tumbler will take care of it.

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31 minutes ago, David Yurko said:

Parts look great,   Looking forward to getting my hands on them when they are ready

Projected time is before Christmas.  I still need to make final adjustments by comparing the original to the new printed parts.

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Cone finalized.  I tried to make it as original as possible with the exception of adding a bushing and enlarging the oil port hole from 2 mm to 3 mm.  Hopefully, this will alleviate the clogging of grease.  (The reason it looks a tad bit different from the previous post....I did not want to pay for printing excess materials...beta testing).

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For those incline to have an actual oiler, here you go (Oil hole is removed since there is not need for it in this design).  Me, I prefer the original.  (The reason it looks a tad bit different from the previous post....I did not want to pay for printing excess materials...beta testing).  Daniel O'Toole is correct...why mess with a design that is good enough other than to allow bronze bushing.

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On 10/22/2022 at 6:48 PM, Louis Luu said:

Cone finalized.  I tried to make it as original as possible with the exception of adding a bushing and enlarging the oil port hole from 2 mm to 3 mm.  Hopefully, this will alleviate the clogging of grease. 

For those incline to have an actual oiler, here you go (Oil hole is removed since there is not need for it in this design).  Me, I prefer the original. 

So there are two versions of the cone - 

a) with a grease port above to recirculate grease from the gears in the nose cone to the motor shaft, and

b) with an oil wick below to lubricate the motor shaft.

I have a few questions:

1) I've heard of the pot-metal zinc cast gears prematurely wearing out and/or cracking. I haven't heard of any issues with the nose cone casting itself (aside from grease clogging the small port). Can you tell me what you are hoping to solve? If just a larger grease hole, couldn't you just drill it out larger?

2) Will there be choices of material, or only stainless?

3) Also, why do you prefer the original grease port hole to an actual oiler? 

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On 9/25/2022 at 5:29 PM, Louis Luu said:

I've talked to Daniel O'Toole.  He tells me the whole front housing is self lubricating.  The grease gets up there and lubricates the shaft.  It makes sense.  I will remove the oiler and leave the hole for bushing.  This way, it leaves the look of the front housing.  All I'm doing is updating with modern materials.  I will rework the front cone without the oiler.

Thank you Daniel!

On 9/25/2022 at 5:38 PM, Louis Luu said:

I'll trust the original design.  The people who designed the housing must have known what they were doing.  I don't think they would have forgotten to add an oiler if it needed one.  I'll go ahead and keep the design and just update the material.  I think Daniel is onto something.  No way would they forget to add an oiler if it needed one.  

Ah, I just re-read this thread and found your previous opinion posted to explain why you prefer no oiler. 

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11 hours ago, Fred Summers said:

So there are two versions of the cone - 

a) with a grease port above to recirculate grease from the gears in the nose cone to the motor shaft, and

b) with an oil wick below to lubricate the motor shaft.

I have a few questions:

1) I've heard of the pot-metal zinc cast gears prematurely wearing out and/or cracking. I haven't heard of any issues with the nose cone casting itself (aside from grease clogging the small port). Can you tell me what you are hoping to solve? If just a larger grease hole, couldn't you just drill it out larger?

2) Will there be choices of material, or only stainless?

3) Also, why do you prefer the original grease port hole to an actual oiler? 

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The nose cone is made of pot metal.  There are plenty out there with cracks on them and chips along the outer perimeter.  That is the first issue I have with the nose cone.  The secondary problem, there is no room for a bronze bushing.  The new nose cone will take care of this issue.  The old gears can also be used but I am also making new gears.  Most of the older gears are worm.  The two bottom bevel gears are made of pot metal.  The new bevel gear will be much stronger since it is made of stainless steel.  I am currently shopping for a tumbler and abrasive media. 

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11 hours ago, Louis Luu said:

I am currently shopping for a tumbler and abrasive media. 

This is the one I bought, I'm happy with it. It holds about 5 lbs of media, you can fit all your parts in there and not too expensive. 

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Quick-N-EZ-Vibratory-Separator/dp/B07YXCFMB2

The 320 grit media I use is this, I run it overnight on all my old rusted metal (and brass) and it has a nice cutting action, but I'm not sure if it would take down the stainless steel the way you want...

https://www.amazon.com/Tumbling-Vibratory-Vibrating-Rotating-Tumblers/dp/B07CV7B9NZ

There is a 220 grit media that might work better for you needs...

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Tumbling-Vibratory-Vibrating-Rotating/dp/B08N3H3ZQX

Personally, I would probably start with the following... 

https://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-Triangular-Deburring-Edge-Rounding-Stainless/dp/B07FB1H15C

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One comment I would make about the grease port... yes the front assembly where the motor shaft rides in the pot-metal cast nose cone seems to be lubed by grease on the OEM design. The grease that is on the worm gear of the motor shaft is forced into the grease port as the shaft turns because the worm gear butts up against the port. If you make the space around the motor shaft accept a sintered bronze bushing, would it not move the grease port further out (away from the motor shaft)? If so, and the worm gear does NOT overlap the port, as its rubbing on the bushing, and so I doubt that any grease will be forced into the port. In this case having an oil wick would be very useful. The other option I could see is drilling a grease port through the bushing (if it is thick enough) so that the hole maintains its location as with the OEM design. 

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2 hours ago, Fred Summers said:

One comment I would make about the grease port... yes the front assembly where the motor shaft rides in the pot-metal cast nose cone seems to be lubed by grease on the OEM design. The grease that is on the worm gear of the motor shaft is forced into the grease port as the shaft turns because the worm gear butts up against the port. If you make the space around the motor shaft accept a sintered bronze bushing, would it not move the grease port further out (away from the motor shaft)? If so, and the worm gear does NOT overlap the port, as its rubbing on the bushing, and so I doubt that any grease will be forced into the port. In this case having an oil wick would be very useful. The other option I could see is drilling a grease port through the bushing (if it is thick enough) so that the hole maintains its location as with the OEM design. 

The grease port hole is to allow grease to flow back into the gearbox.  I kept the location the same.  Only thing I did was to enlarge the opening from 2mm to 3mm.

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2 hours ago, Fred Summers said:

This is the one I bought, I'm happy with it. It holds about 5 lbs of media, you can fit all your parts in there and not too expensive. 

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Quick-N-EZ-Vibratory-Separator/dp/B07YXCFMB2

The 320 grit media I use is this, I run it overnight on all my old rusted metal (and brass) and it has a nice cutting action, but I'm not sure if it would take down the stainless steel the way you want...

https://www.amazon.com/Tumbling-Vibratory-Vibrating-Rotating-Tumblers/dp/B07CV7B9NZ

There is a 220 grit media that might work better for you needs...

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Tumbling-Vibratory-Vibrating-Rotating/dp/B08N3H3ZQX

Personally, I would probably start with the following... 

https://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-Triangular-Deburring-Edge-Rounding-Stainless/dp/B07FB1H15C

Silicon carbide will cut steel.  I like the tumbler with the clear lid.  Thank you.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
7 hours ago, Fred Summers said:

Why can't I edit my posts on this forum?

Anyway, did you get the tumbler yet to smooth the gears?

Not yet,  been busy with work.  I'm still waiting for the shipping from Shapeways.

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7 hours ago, Fred Summers said:

Why can't I edit my posts on this forum?

Anyway, did you get the tumbler yet to smooth the gears?

Them three dots on the side on the right top hand corner of every box...if you click, you can hit edit and save/submit.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The gears are much better...thicker teeth "more meat" on them and I'm more comfortable with the alignment.  I will order another set in steel for me to test before the cone and the gears.  The curvature is spot on...much better than the first ones.  The old gears can also fit into the new cone housing.

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