Newbie Emerson 29646 Restoration Questions

[Keith Wheaton]

Hi all, happy to have found this (and the old forum) as a resource. I picked up a running fan recently and tore it down for restoration; at the moment it's in pieces and I'm in the process of cleaning off grease/grime/dirt before stripping and paint. I have a handful of questions about best practices and hopefully someone can help with a situation I've created for myself.

How can I clean the windings and best-preserve them? I'm not interested in trying to strip or re-wind since everything appears to be in order. I just want to clean things up and preserve the mechanism.

How can I clean and preserve the transformer and speed selector in the base? Same philosophy as above - everything is working so I don't want to tear it down any further than I have to.

The badge/emblem on the fan cage doesn't appear recessed/stamped like the number plate on the body (it's the "Built To Last" version with the pyramid). Is there a way to refresh and make the brass bright without disturbing the artwork (I don't think Rich's Gun-Kote method will work here)?

Now, for the situation I created... The variable oscillator knob was covered in grease and grime so I started using lacquer thinner to clean it up. I had read somewhere that the paint is very weak but I didn't realize just how delicate it is and now the part is completely stripped. As mentioned above, I intend to repaint the fan so this didn't hurt my feelings too much but, now that I've cleaned things enough to make sense of what's what, I know see that the knurled "cap" is crimped on. I don't think I'm likely to have success removing it for disassembly so my guess is that I'll have to paint it as a whole piece. Does anyone have a suggestion or method for cleaning up, painting, and re-lubricating this piece?

Thank you in advance!

[Thomas Newcity]

Keith,

The 29646 is good fan to start with.  My suggestions are only my opinion and there are many others that may join in assisting you.  Good common sense is the best tool in the book of restorations.  

I clean the stator windings by first blowing them out with compressed air.  Next I spray with mineral spirits, wipe dry and let it air dry overnight.   Coating with winding sealer is a personal choice, but if you do, tape off the inside core surfaces.

On the speed control coil, same as above, but no sealer coating.  If the coil is coming apart and needs repair, I recommend it be rebuilt.  

That particular badge is difficult to just clean up and polish without getting into the black background.  My regular approach is to remove and completely restore, which is an awful lot of work.  Perhaps someone else will weigh in with some good ideas.  

The variable oscillator control is not to be opened to clean.  After degreasing it, soak in lacquer thinner a day or two with occasional agitation to clean the inner workings.  After painting with the other parts, lubricate with a few drops of teflon in the lower opening.

 

 

Let me know if you need a head wire hookup diagram.  Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[Steve Sherwood]

I agree with Tom, he is an expert on these.

[Keith Wheaton]

Thank you for the replies, gents! Not knowing anything about preserving motors (and hoping I don't stir up passionate opinions), why would or wouldn't I want to seal the windings?

Thankfully, the speed control coil is in excellent shape - just dirty. The only thing I might consider replacing on this part would be the contacts as they have been flattened a bit (or maybe that's just how they're supposed to be?).

As for the badge, I'm not afraid to put in the work to completely restore, as I'm hoping the rest of the fan will be pristine and like new. Do you have a post somewhere documenting the process?

Thank you for the information on the oscillator control knob; it's a relief to know that's essentially what I've already done. Do I need to mask off the inner workings through the little window when I paint this part or just "let 'er rip"?

A few other questions... Is there a good source for replacement brass screws? I see McMaster Carr has a variety but I'd rather not order in bulk. Thankfully, everything came apart very nicely aside from the oscillator arm retaining screw - it got a little buggered up while I struggled with it.

Is there a good source for the felt/nylon/fibrous wear washers? Most of mine came out fine but a few were victims of scrubbing and disassembly. I did a good job of taking pictures as things came apart but I want to be sure things go back together right. Is there a diagram somewhere that shows their locations and count/thickness?

What kind of screw is needed to connect the oscillator arm to the oscillator control knob? It looks like it should be some sort of shouldered affair but, since mine is missing, I'm guessing.

[Keith Wheaton]

Hi again; just giving this thread a bump as I would like to start reassembling soon. I have some questions I'm not able to find good answers for...

• How can one restore the "Built to Last" pyramid badge on the fan cage (see attached)?
• Where can I get replacement brass screws in small numbers?
• What are the red felt/nylon/fibrous washers that are found on the rotating assemblies? Are they fiber sealing washers like these https://www.amazon.com/Fibre-Sealing-Washer-Assortment-600pc/dp/B01M332VF2 ?
• Is there a diagram of some sort describing location and count/thickness?
• What kind of screw is needed to connect the oscillator arm to the oscillator control knob?

[Lane Shirey]

• See my replies in red below
•  
• How can one restore the "Built to Last" pyramid badge on the fan cage (see attached)?generally with Simichrome, being careful not to remove too much paint. There are other methods you may find by searching past posts. 
• Where can I get replacement brass screws in small numbers? Darryl Hudson, or larger qtys from McMaster Carr
• What are the red felt/nylon/fibrous washers that are found on the rotating assemblies? Are they fiber sealing washers like these https://www.amazon.com/Fibre-Sealing-Washer-Assortment-600pc/dp/B01M332VF2 ? they are fiber washers also available from McMaster. You can find assortment kits that might have what you need at Home Depot, Harbor Freight and the like
• Is there a diagram of some sort describing location and count/thickness? No. It’s trial and error.  the purpose is to center the rotor in the laminate stack of the stator when the rotor is pushed to the rear of the motor. Leave about 1/16-1/8 play when you push and pull the rotor shaft. 
• What kind of screw is needed to connect the oscillator arm to the oscillator control knob? it’s a shoulder screw. Darryl Hudson has them too.  He has a website but can be contacted here on the forum. He’s a super talented machinist located  in Aiken, SC 

 

[Keith Wheaton]

Thank you so much for the replies, Lane!

I also intended to ask a few other questions but couldn't edit the post to add them...

• Why would (or wouldn't) I want to seal the windings?
  • What is the best product to use for this?
• What is the recommended grease for the oscillator gearbox?
• Is there a way to remove the oil filler from the rear case (to make paint easier)?

[Lane Shirey]

• Why would (or wouldn't) I want to seal the windings? there’s really not a need to varnish the stator winding unless it’s been damaged in some way, if it buzzes due to loose windings, or if the coils  seem loose.   Most take the “can’t hurt” approach. I feel it fortifies the 100 year old insulation.  You’ll want electrical insulating varnish.  McMaster Carr has it. They don’t show the brand but they carry the Spray-on brand. Glyptal is another brand. Just make sure to tape off the inner and outer surfaces of the metal stator laminate stack (where the rotor fits, and the outer, that touches the housing) 
  • What is the best product to use for this? see above
• What is the recommended grease for the oscillator gearbox? you can use synthetic grease, but most use Lucas Red &Tacky or just a regular normal temp wheel bearing grease (not the stuff for disc brakes) I think my can is Valvolene. 
• Is there a way to remove the oil filler from the rear case (to make paint easier)?  I forget if they unscrew or are pressed in on that model. I work around them.  If it’s just a tube, then they’re pressed in. If you see a hex nut part at the bottom, then they’re threaded in.  
   
•  

Edited December 2, 2022 by Lane Shirey

[Thomas Newcity]

2 hours ago, Lane Shirey said:

• Why would (or wouldn't) I want to seal the windings? there’s really not a need to varnish the stator winding unless it’s been damaged in some way, if it buzzes due to loose windings, or if the coils  seem loose.   Most take the “can’t hurt” approach. I feel it fortifies the 100 year old insulation.  You’ll want electrical insulating varnish.  McMaster Carr has it. They don’t show the brand but they carry the Spray-on brand. Glyptal is another brand. Just make sure to tape off the inner and outer surfaces of the metal stator laminate stack (where the rotor fits, and the outer, that touches the housing) 
  • What is the best product to use for this? see above
• What is the recommended grease for the oscillator gearbox? you can use synthetic grease, but most use Lucas Red &Tacky or just a regular normal temp wheel bearing grease (not the stuff for disc brakes) I think my can is Valvolene. 
• Is there a way to remove the oil filler from the rear case (to make paint easier)?  I forget if they unscrew or are pressed in on that model. I work around them.  If it’s just a tube, then they’re pressed in. If you see a hex nut part at the bottom, then they’re threaded in.  
   
•  

Good job Lane.  The oil hole cover on that model will be a press-fit.  Removing without damaging it is the trick.  Prying it out with flush cutting diagonal cutting pliers is my way.  

[Keith Wheaton]

Thank you again, Lane and Thomas! I think this gets me over the hump of things I needed to get the restoration off high-center. I really appreciate the information!

[Paul Carmody]

I would add Ace Hardware for brass screws and hardware to Lanes comprehensive list.

[Steven P Dempsey]

Document as you go - - - many small parts, washers, etc -my first was a 29646, I had no clue, but years of messing with Emersons I learned!!

[Lane Shirey]

Just take lots of pictures of disassembly and mark your wiring before you take it apart. We all started restoring fans with one fan and knew nothing. You’ll get there.  Best success with it! It’ll be a good running fan when you’re finished! 

[Keith Wheaton]

Thank you, all! I've got simichrome on order for the badge and I've taken a MILLION pictures as this thing has come apart. I think my only issue at this point will be finding the right combination of sealing washers to put it all back together.

Regarding the grease in the oscillator gearbox - there was a lot in that case. Is that recommended practice with modern greases as well?

[Thomas Newcity]

2 hours ago, Keith Wheaton said:

Thank you, all! I've got simichrome on order for the badge and I've taken a MILLION pictures as this thing has come apart. I think my only issue at this point will be finding the right combination of sealing washers to put it all back together.

Regarding the grease in the oscillator gearbox - there was a lot in that case. Is that recommended practice with modern greases as well?

There are different schools of thought on how to grease the gears.  I use a high tac grease such as Lucas Red and Tacky and load the teeth of the gears.  Grease should also be applied to shafts that enter a socket or pass through a bearing surface.  I do not load the gear case, as that is just excess grease that will never touch the gears.  As always JMHO.  

Will put together a shopping list of the shims and washers that you will need and post it here.  

Sent you a PM of an Emerson 29646 parts break down and head wire hook up.  Please let me know if you got it.  Good luck.  

[Keith Wheaton]

1 hour ago, Thomas Newcity said:

There are different schools of thought on how to grease the gears.  I use a high tac grease such as Lucas Red and Tacky and load the teeth of the gears.  Grease should also be applied to shafts that enter a socket or pass through a bearing surface.  I do not load the gear case, as that is just excess grease that will never touch the gears.  As always JMHO.  

Will put together a shopping list of the shims and washers that you will need and post it here.  

Sent you a PM of an Emerson 29646 parts break down and head wire hook up.  Please let me know if you got it.  Good luck.  

I agree with loading the gearbox - in mine there were neat little grooves where the gears lived and everything else was untouched. I received the parts list and head wire hookup guide, thank you so very much for that!

[Thomas Newcity]

This list should get you going.  Let me know if I missed anything.  I get all my washers and shims from McMaster in the hundred packs, and I am not sure where you are going to get them piecemeal in small quantities.  As was posted earlier, Darryl Hudson may have them.  

1. Shim 1/2ID x 3/4OD x ~.030" thick Red

    Rotor                              4 each

    Motor Base                  2 each

2. Shim 1/4ID x 3/8OD X ~.015" thick Gray

    Oscillator Arm            2 each

3.  Shim 5/16ID X 9/16OD X ~.030" thick Red

     Spur Gear on shaft     2 each

4.  Shim 5/16ID x 7/16OD x ~.030" thick Red

     Spur Gear shaft between adjuster and bottom of gear case.    1 each

5.  Shim 3/16ID x 3/8OD x ~.030" thick Red

     Gear housing gears and oscillator drive shaft.   4 each

6.  Rotor/Hub Leather washer.           1 each

NOTE:  The number of shims used for the rotor and the motor base require some alignment, and I'll will be glad to help you when you get there.  
 

 

[Keith Wheaton]

13 hours ago, Thomas Newcity said:

This list should get you going.  Let me know if I missed anything.  I get all my washers and shims from McMaster in the hundred packs, and I am not sure where you are going to get them piecemeal in small quantities.  As was posted earlier, Darryl Hudson may have them.  

1. Shim 1/2ID x 3/4OD x ~.030" thick Red

    Rotor                              4 each

    Motor Base                  2 each

2. Shim 1/4ID x 3/8OD X ~.015" thick Gray

    Oscillator Arm            2 each

3.  Shim 5/16ID X 9/16OD X ~.030" thick Red

     Spur Gear on shaft     2 each

4.  Shim 5/16ID x 7/16OD x ~.030" thick Red

     Spur Gear shaft between adjuster and bottom of gear case.    1 each

5.  Shim 3/16ID x 3/8OD x ~.030" thick Red

     Gear housing gears and oscillator drive shaft.   4 each

6.  Rotor/Hub Leather washer.           1 each

NOTE:  The number of shims used for the rotor and the motor base require some alignment, and I'll will be glad to help you when you get there.  
 

 

This is some amazing information that will be immeasurably helpful. Thank you so much!

[Lane Shirey]

Keith I can probably send you most not all of the washers you need to get going. My email is mangodaytona@outlook.com. Please send me your mailing address and they’ll be on their way. 

 

cheers,

Lane

Edited December 6, 2022 by Lane Shirey

[Robert Kennedy]

On 12/2/2022 at 4:52 PM, Paul Carmody said:

I would add Ace Hardware for brass screws and hardware to Lanes comprehensive list.

Yep....that's where I've been getting mine

[Russ Huber]

When you get hardcore into restoration, McMaster Carr fiber washers in bulk. 🙂

[Keith Wheaton]

On 12/6/2022 at 9:46 AM, Lane Shirey said:

Keith I can probably send you most not all of the washers you need to get going. My email is mangodaytona@outlook.com. Please send me your mailing address and they’ll be on their way. 

 

cheers,

Lane

Thanks for the contact, Lane but Thomas beat you to it and is sending over a care package. I really appreciate the generosity!

 

19 hours ago, Robert Kennedy said:

Yep....that's where I've been getting mine

The issue I had here is the one screw I needed is an odd size my store doesn't carry. It's the retainer that fastens the oscillator link to the adjusting collar - it didn't feel right in any of the thread checkers and there wasn't anything on the shelf or in the trays that matched it either. I have an email with Darryl Hudson out - he asked for clarifications of what I'm looking for; just waiting on a response.

19 hours ago, Russ Huber said:

When you get hardcore into restoration, McMaster Carr fiber washers in bulk. 🙂

That's quite the collection!

[Russ Huber]

22 minutes ago, Keith Wheaton said:

Thanks for the contact, Lane but Thomas beat you to it and is sending over a care package. I really appreciate the generosity!

 

The issue I had here is the one screw I needed is an odd size my store doesn't carry. It's the retainer that fastens the oscillator link to the adjusting collar - it didn't feel right in any of the thread checkers and there wasn't anything on the shelf or in the trays that matched it either. I have an email with Darryl Hudson out - he asked for clarifications of what I'm looking for; just waiting on a response.

That's quite the collection!

The primary fan motor shaft sizes. It is a collection anyone can have. 🙂

[Keith Wheaton]

Massive shoutout to @Thomas Newcity - his care package arrived in the mail and was BEYOND generous with its contents. Thank you so very much for the head start!!

[Thomas Newcity]

26 minutes ago, Keith Wheaton said:

Massive shoutout to @Thomas Newcity - his care package arrived in the mail and was BEYOND generous with its contents. Thank you so very much for the head start!!

My pleasure.  Please keep us posted on your progress and don't hesitate to ask questions.  Hope to see you at a fan meet someday.