Russ Huber Posted December 15, 2022 Share Posted December 15, 2022 Dr. Newcity In charge at the Advanced Emerson Fan Motor Research Facility of F. S. Arkansas. (A. E. F. M. R. F. Inc.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Huber Posted December 15, 2022 Share Posted December 15, 2022 On 12/5/2022 at 6:57 PM, Thomas Newcity said: This list should get you going. Let me know if I missed anything. I get all my washers and shims from McMaster in the hundred packs, and I am not sure where you are going to get them piecemeal in small quantities. As was posted earlier, Darryl Hudson may have them. 1. Shim 1/2ID x 3/4OD x ~.030" thick Red Rotor 4 each Motor Base 2 each 2. Shim 1/4ID x 3/8OD X ~.015" thick Gray Oscillator Arm 2 each 3. Shim 5/16ID X 9/16OD X ~.030" thick Red Spur Gear on shaft 2 each 4. Shim 5/16ID x 7/16OD x ~.030" thick Red Spur Gear shaft between adjuster and bottom of gear case. 1 each 5. Shim 3/16ID x 3/8OD x ~.030" thick Red Gear housing gears and oscillator drive shaft. 4 each 6. Rotor/Hub Leather washer. 1 each NOTE: The number of shims used for the rotor and the motor base require some alignment, and I'll will be glad to help you when you get there. I never could keep those numbers straight. 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sherwood Posted December 16, 2022 Share Posted December 16, 2022 Tom Newcity gave a seminar last year on basic repairs of Emerson fans at our national convention. I want to thank him again for doing that. He an asset to our club and a good man, who is always will to help anyone in need of fan repairs. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Huber Posted December 17, 2022 Share Posted December 17, 2022 (edited) 5 hours ago, Steve Sherwood said: Tom Newcity gave a seminar last year on basic repairs of Emerson fans at our national convention. I want to thank him again for doing that. He an asset to our club and a good man, who is always will to help anyone in need of fan repairs. I tried to walk in his shoes for part of a day and buckled under the pressure. How does he do it? 🤨🙂 Edited December 17, 2022 by Russ Huber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Wheaton Posted December 20, 2022 Author Share Posted December 20, 2022 I've been working wit simichrome and a small mountain of q tips. I think I'm about ready to stick a fork in the badge and call it done unless anyone has a suggestion for cleaning up the black paint. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lane Shirey Posted December 21, 2022 Share Posted December 21, 2022 (edited) The badge looks great. I often clean the badge after polishing with solvent and give it a coat of Nikolas Lacquer. If you decide to, have a hair dryer or other heat source ready to apply to the badge as lacquer often blushes. The heat will remove the blush. The lacquer will deepen the color and renew the painted areas. I have a 90w incandescent flood light in my paint booth that puts off a mild amount of heat. I usually just hold up small lacquered parts up to it and it’s enough heat to prevent blushing. Edited December 21, 2022 by Lane Shirey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Rockwell Posted December 21, 2022 Share Posted December 21, 2022 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Wheaton Posted September 22, 2023 Author Share Posted September 22, 2023 Hi everyone. I thought I'd just return to this since I've been doing some work on things here and there. The project isn't dead, I've just had to keep it on the back burner. Figured I'd share the results of the name plate now that I'm happy with it's state. Hope to upload some other pictures once I make some progress with the assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reid Sexton Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 I recently picked up a 29646 for a whooping $25! I've never done anything like this and welcoming the challenge to do it correctly. Happy I found this forum, it has been a great source of info. This thread has been particularly helpful. Everything considered the fan is in fairly good shape. So far I have spent most of my time disassembling and CLEANING. There is A LOT of caked on crud. The oscillating gear box was full of brownish muck. I took a TON of pictures to help with reassembly. I was going to order new wire from Sundial Wire. Any specific wire and plug I should get? would like to keep the fan Keith were you able to finish your fan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lane Shirey Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 2 minutes ago, Reid Sexton said: I recently picked up a 29646 for a whooping $25! I've never done anything like this and welcoming the challenge to do it correctly. Happy I found this forum, it has been a great source of info. This thread has been particularly helpful. Everything considered the fan is in fairly good shape. So far I have spent most of my time disassembling and CLEANING. There is A LOT of caked on crud. The oscillating gear box was full of brownish muck. I took a TON of pictures to help with reassembly. I was going to order new wire from Sundial Wire. Any specific wire and plug I should get? would like to keep the fan Keith were you able to finish your fan? Order headwire from Tony Clayton. Power cords are ok from Sundial, but not flexible enough for headwires. He’s an AFCA member. Many of us use his wire. It’s far better than anything else available. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Gaspard Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 I need information on speed switch testing a model 29646? I inherited the fan from my brother 3 weeks ago when he passed. I want to restore it to a running display piece and the paint is too far gone to keep, so I'll strip and repaint in original black, if this can be done? I need to know what length power cord in 18g cloth covered wire and if a 1930 model came with twisted wire or 2 wires clad in cloth like the head wire is/was my head wire is deteriorated/dry rotten and crumbling. In the past 2 weeks I've been searching for restoration tips and videos but I've only removed the blades and cage, speed switch and modern plastic power cord. I also removed the oscillator knob and soaked it to remove grease grime and paint. I'm missing the shoulder bolt for the arm attachment to the knob but have a bolt with correct threads and length, which I located before disassembly began. I need to test the speed switch, stator, & rotor when the head wire (24 inches) arrives. My head wire is so bad, that it was broken thru all 3 wires in 2 places with the outer cloth holding it from falling off. With that, I'm not sure I'll be able to see which wires go where on switch to stator?? I haven't opened the motor head/case to remove the rotor or stator but I have 3 wires hanging out of the back of the case that have only tan paper wrapped around then and the cloth has crumbled away. Sorry for the long description, but I live outside of New Orleans and winter has ended! This being an outside project, I'm really needing to move with this since it took 4 days to join/register here? Thanks in advance for any info you can provide! I have to get this correct in everyway possible or I shouldn't start? I've never done a vintage fan, as I actually collect vintage guitars and I'm a watch maker that collects 30s & 40s Ingersoll character watches and clocks (DISNEY). I do have a good eye for details and no problems with complicated assemblies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Ray Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 (edited) Emerson fans are great and robust fans to work on. Ignore trying to figure out what head wire used to connect to where. Cut that old wire off and solder on the new wire. Follow the diagram below (top pic is for your 29xxx fan) to find out where to connect it to the switch assembly. Edited March 8 by Patrick Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Gaspard Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 I'm just don't know what I'll find hanging off the stator when I remove it from the head case? I can see where the 3 wires are connected to the speed switch but the wires sticking out of the head case (that holds the motor) are about 2 inches long and all only have tan paper over the copper with no striped cloth covers to tell which is which? Are you thinking that if I open the head case remove the rotor and the stator carefully, that I find the wires are covered and marked inside the case going to the stator? I've only seen videos of stators removed from the case and I didn't notice how to tell which wire is high,med,or low but those images had the head wire attached in full length to the speed switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Gaspard Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 I also don't see any edit button to correct misspelled posts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Ray Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 21 minutes ago, James Gaspard said: I'm just don't know what I'll find hanging off the stator when I remove it from the head case? I can see where the 3 wires are connected to the speed switch but the wires sticking out of the head case (that holds the motor) are about 2 inches long and all only have tan paper over the copper with no striped cloth covers to tell which is which? Are you thinking that if I open the head case remove the rotor and the stator carefully, that I find the wires are covered and marked inside the case going to the stator? I've only seen videos of stators removed from the case and I didn't notice how to tell which wire is high,med,or low but those images had the head wire attached in full length to the speed switch. Go ahead and remove the stator. Solder new head wire to the stator. Check the difference in ohms between the 3 pairs of wires that you just connected. Following the diagram, connect the wires to the speed switch. No need to worry about which factory wire went where. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Newcity Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Gaspard Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 I was really hoping it would be this simple. I've never worked on any electrical devices any more complicated than basic house current. I think this is going to work out fine since you guys have shown me how to sensibly look at hooking this up? I was so baffled when I saw the head wire was severed and I couldn't just replace one wire at a time. Now I "think" I understand the schematic diagrams you've shown! I will move forward step by step and I'll keep you posted. This restoration is SO important to me, so THANK YOU! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Newcity Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 5 hours ago, James Gaspard said: I was really hoping it would be this simple. I've never worked on any electrical devices any more complicated than basic house current. I think this is going to work out fine since you guys have shown me how to sensibly look at hooking this up? I was so baffled when I saw the head wire was severed and I couldn't just replace one wire at a time. Now I "think" I understand the schematic diagrams you've shown! I will move forward step by step and I'll keep you posted. This restoration is SO important to me, so THANK YOU! When doing a restoration, take pictures, make notes, and ask lots of questions. The first phase of a restoration should always be to have a working and complete fan. You don't want to be disassembling a refinished fan to find out why it doesn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Gaspard Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 Very true, so as soon as the head wire arrives, I'll hook up the speed switch to the stator and attempt running it thru all 3 speeds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Gaspard Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 If when I've removed the stator and dust it off with a soft paint brush, does the cloth tape need to be removed to clean the windings and revarnish the windings? I've read to dust and clean with "CRC ELECTRONICS CLEANER" before spraying electrical varnish on the windings, but I'm thinking the cloth tape must be removed to clean and varnish the windings? I can't make out the details of how to reapply the black cloth tape? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Gaspard Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 I'm also thinking a day of drying between CRC cleaner and the varnish application, saw a guy say he puts stator on a heat blanket over night before varnishing and tape of the inside and outer edges of the stator where it meets the rotor and the inside of the head case. All the restored stators and speed switch coils look like they have been retaped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Olson Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 (edited) Hi James, I personally would not remove any firmly attached tape and would not spray any cleaner on the windings. Try not to put the horse before the cart. First, establish the fact that the fan will run properly. If it doesn't, then address that problem. If the fan does run properly, then worry about cleaning and varnishing windings. Spraying electrical cleaner on otherwise good windings is not, in my opinion, a good idea. To dry cleaner or varnish on windings I use a variac and an ammeter to trickle a current through the windings while measuring the temperature with an infrared thermometer. Edit: To any moderators who may be concerned, could James' posts be put in their own thread? Maybe combine with his other thread? It would eliminate some ambiguity and possibly some confusion (or is it just me?) thank you. Edited March 8 by Mark Olson Try to move post? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Gaspard Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 Good advice Mark Olson, I do have a General Radio Variac. I've been hoping to find something to use it on! Should I have started a thread instead of derailing this one, I just saw the moderator had the same model fan and jumped in. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Gaspard Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 I just started another thread since I'm derailing this thread? I'm at the beginning and really will need to ask EVERYTHING, so sorry this didn't come to me before but I will try to keep this restoration over there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Gaspard Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 On 10/22/2022 at 1:51 PM, Thomas Newcity said: Keith, The 29646 is good fan to start with. My suggestions are only my opinion and there are many others that may join in assisting you. Good common sense is the best tool in the book of restorations. I clean the stator windings by first blowing them out with compressed air. Next I spray with mineral spirits, wipe dry and let it air dry overnight. Coating with winding sealer is a personal choice, but if you do, tape off the inside core surfaces. On the speed control coil, same as above, but no sealer coating. If the coil is coming apart and needs repair, I recommend it be rebuilt. That particular badge is difficult to just clean up and polish without getting into the black background. My regular approach is to remove and completely restore, which is an awful lot of work. Perhaps someone else will weigh in with some good ideas. The variable oscillator control is not to be opened to clean. After degreasing it, soak in lacquer thinner a day or two with occasional agitation to clean the inner workings. After painting with the other parts, lubricate with a few drops of teflon in the lower opening. Let me know if you need a head wire hookup diagram. Good luck and keep us posted. If I remove the stator and "paint" brush it off, the windings are covered with cloth tape. If I spray the stator with mineral spirits, won't the tape begin falling apart/off? I haven't remove my rotor and stator yet as I haven't check to see if the speed switch and motor work. My fan was missing its head wire, so it had no connection from speed switch to motor when I got it. I now have a new head wire to make connections but I don't know which wires on the stator are high, med., & low? If I connect the head wires to the 3 stator wire, how can I determine which wire to connect to each of the s speed switch wires? I'm not sure how to check resistance of the 3 stator wires with a multi meter (digital)? I nwwd to understand how this is done to verify if this motor and switch are working? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.