John Landstrom Posted February 13, 2023 Share Posted February 13, 2023 (edited) Wondering if anyone has advice on how to remove the motor tag from an Emerson motor without damaging the tag. In this case it’s a 1942 wall mount naval fan. Tag is silver in color (steel?) with similar drive screws. Anyone with experience doing this please provide some helpful advice I have a new tag I’d like to use but don’t want to damage the original. Looking to install the new one and need to know what size drive screws to use. Will be looking for brass ones, but if anyone has some correct size ones they’d like to part with I’d gladly negotiate with ya ! oh, disregard the red lettered question. Old photo. Edited February 13, 2023 by John Landstrom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Ray Posted February 13, 2023 Share Posted February 13, 2023 Hey John. Check out this thread. You'll find a couple methods. https://new.afcaforum.com/index.php?/topic/3485-emerson-motor-tag-removal/#comment-24355 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Landstrom Posted February 13, 2023 Author Share Posted February 13, 2023 (edited) Thanks Patrick, Unfortunately I can’t get the stater out of the cast iron casing. I’ve tried all the methods mentioned here and on the old site. The protrusions inside the motor case, that are where the rod holes are, extend over the edge of the stater holding it in place. I’m assuming it was installed from the rear, sliding in until it rested against these “stops”. Can’t figure out if the back comes off the motor or not on this model. Although it appeared to have a seam, even when I removed the battleship gray paint it’s not apparent and sliding a utility knife blade around it didn’t reveal a seam. So, I’m stuck with trying to effect the removal with everything in place. **By the “rods” I’m mean the threaded rods that go through the stater threading into the rear motor cover and extend out the front through the front cover to allow for nuts to hold the front cover in place Edited February 13, 2023 by John Landstrom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Behrend Posted February 13, 2023 Share Posted February 13, 2023 (edited) Did you try the pipe method? Edited February 13, 2023 by Mark Behrend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Landstrom Posted February 13, 2023 Author Share Posted February 13, 2023 Mark, Definitely did, a couple of times, but due to those protrusions the stater didn’t budge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lane Shirey Posted February 14, 2023 Share Posted February 14, 2023 What protrusions? Looks like a normal Emmy stator and housing.. Have you tried to dribble a small amount of penetrating oil where the stator makes contact with the housing? What about warming the housing with a heat gun? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Hilton Posted February 14, 2023 Share Posted February 14, 2023 I'm not 100% sure about this but given the thickness of this casting your tag rivets might not be exposed on the inside anyway. Later model Emerson's started using the knurled steel pins to hold tags in place. They were driven in to blind (not through) holes in the casting. These are much trickier to remove because you do not have access on the other side of the casting. I take a file and flatten the heads, then center punch, then drill a 3/32 hole in to the head, then use an 'easy out' to essentially grab a hold of the rivet and twist it out. I use this technique only for when the tag rivets are not exposed on inside like on DC's for example. Dan H. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Rockwell Posted February 14, 2023 Share Posted February 14, 2023 Restoring machinery in the 90's, I learned of a method to deal with rivet pins such as Dan just mentioned... I had sufficient luck using primitive technique that I never gave this a try, but..... : Whether using a hacksaw blade, file(s), small thin Dremel-type grinding disk or combination of the above, notch the pin's head with a slot, sized for a decent screwdriver; a brief counter-clockwise twist with good inward pressure will relieve the tension and provide a gap between tag and the pin's head, since the threads twist like a screw, and then it's a matter of employing your tool of choice to complete the job. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Landstrom Posted February 15, 2023 Author Share Posted February 15, 2023 Lane: The 3 “protrusions” around the inside edge of the motor casting that surround the rod holes. Nope haven’t used oil. I didn’t want to contaminate the stater with oil , and no - haven’t tried using a heat gun. I was holding the pipe and even with the heavy PVC pipe I was afraid of cracking/breaking the rear motor housing. Dan: I have the drill bit but not the easy out. It’s a 1942 navy fan. Without knowing for sure I’m hesitant to start a procedure that may not work. Steve: The rivets/drive screw heads are only slightly larger than 1/16”. Don’t think the saws/cutting wheels I have are small enough to allow for a screw driver. If they were 1/4” I wouldn’t hesitate to try. Originally I intended to replace the original worn motor tag so I had a replacement made. I had intended to use the original on the stand I’m planning to make for presentation purposes. As of today, I’ve decided to leave the original as is and paint around it. I’ll use the new tag on the base of the stand. The intent is to have a wall mount fan on a tabletop stand. Thinking now about using either a hardwood that I’m familiar with and have all the tools, or having a local machine shop make something out of aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lane Shirey Posted February 15, 2023 Share Posted February 15, 2023 (edited) Nearly all later Emerson housings have those internal ribs. They never interfere with the stator coming out. Im not saying to flood the stator with oil, but rather carefully place a few drops by each rib and let it work. If you get it on the windings, Lectra Clean will remove it. it should come out with the pipe method, and Emerson castings are pretty tough. You could also try using a screwdriver to pry upward in that gap around the stator against the laminate stack. I’ve done that with success in the past. Alternate sides and slowly walk out the stator. Once you break it loose, you might be able to use the pipe. Just be careful not to jam it crooked in the housing. Walk it out a little on each side. Back and forth changing sides after each slight movement. Edited February 15, 2023 by Lane Shirey 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Landstrom Posted February 15, 2023 Author Share Posted February 15, 2023 Just lost my replies to all in the black hole of the the interweb. So, rather than spending an hour composing again I’d just like to thank all who replied with their advice and methods. I'm just going to follow along my current plan and leave well enough alone. The fan runs fine. I’ll be posting more pics of the progress and final outcome. In that I’m not going for a pure original look/finish I’ll be curious to see what the comments may be. I’m well on my way to painting the fan and designing a desktop stand for this wall mount fan. We’ll see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.