Nathan Stockhoff Posted January 13 Posted January 13 I’m having trouble taking this shaft out, does anyone have any experience with this brand? I have more pictures if needed. Quote
Anthony Lindsey Posted January 13 Posted January 13 (edited) you have to peel back and straighten the flat metal pin next to the housing that is on the gear and drive it out of the hole. Then remove the gear. Then you can get it out. Edited January 13 by Anthony Lindsey Quote
Nathan Stockhoff Posted January 13 Author Posted January 13 Thank you, are you referring to pin in the below picture Quote
Chris Wimberly Posted January 13 Posted January 13 Watch this video at the 8:00 minute mark.... https://youtu.be/nyEAlxOvrhk?si=FYK3aLc5HGI0I-4h Quote
Nathan Stockhoff Posted January 13 Author Posted January 13 Thanks everyone. I’m sure I will have more questions in the future. Quote
Steve Sherwood Posted January 13 Posted January 13 4 hours ago, Nathan Stockhoff said: Thanks everyone. I’m sure I will have more questions in the future. It's a cotter pin. Quote
Nathan Stockhoff Posted January 13 Author Posted January 13 This stator has seen better days, insulation falling off worries me due to arcing. What are your thoughts? If I replace where would you recommend I get one? Quote
Chris Wimberly Posted January 13 Posted January 13 If it isn't shorted or open, just apply some Sprayon EL600 varnish to it. Get 3 good coats in and you should be good. Quote
Nathan Stockhoff Posted January 14 Author Posted January 14 Thanks Chris, how would I re land the wires to the stator. When taking the fan apart the wires were almost completely destroyed. Quote
Chris Wimberly Posted January 14 Posted January 14 Can you provide better pictures of the leads leaving the stator? You may have to pull them back thru the body of the stator, strip them back, slip some heatshrink around the wires, solder on a new head wire, heat up the heatshrink, and slip the new headwires back through the body. Quote
Chris Wimberly Posted January 14 Posted January 14 At around the 14:15 mark in this video, you can see how a new headwire was done. Although the wires weren't pulled through the body of the stator as I described above. As long as you got a good electrical connection, and it's well insulated, you'll be in business! Quote
Chris Wimberly Posted January 14 Posted January 14 Yeah, look at the other side. You'll see the headwires go through the body of the stator. You need to pull those out and use that extra slack to solder new headwires on. Quote
Nathan Stockhoff Posted January 14 Author Posted January 14 Thanks. Where would I buy replacement head wires. As you can tell I have no clue what I’m doing Quote
Chris Wimberly Posted January 14 Posted January 14 Twisted cloth cord, you can find at a variety of places, including Amazon. There's a kit you can buy that has wires, a plug, oiler wicks, felt, and grommets. You may be interested in that. https://vintagewireandsupply.com/antique-fan-restoration-kit/ Quote
Nathan Stockhoff Posted January 14 Author Posted January 14 This is terrific! I really appreciate the help. Do you know of any videos on how to wire this up? Quote
Chris Wimberly Posted January 14 Posted January 14 What model do you have? Can you share a nameplate photo? Quote
Chris Wimberly Posted January 14 Posted January 14 This is a single speed fan, if I'm not mistaken. So wiring this up should be pretty straight forward. There's no speed coil to worry about. One of the most important tools you can have in your arsenal for fan restoration is a multimeter. Do you have one of those? If so, have you checked your stator winding resistance? Get this as a baseline for making sure your stator is still good. When I'm doing fan wiring, I keep checking the winding resistance to make sure I didn't botch something up. The resistance of your stator windings should be almost the exact same as you work - to the point that when you've got the new plug connected, you should read the same resistance on the plug terminals through the closed switch. Does all that make sense? Quote
Nathan Stockhoff Posted January 14 Author Posted January 14 I will give an update to them his thread either later tonight or tomorrow evening once I have time to check resistance. Thank you for your help. Quote
Nathan Stockhoff Posted January 14 Author Posted January 14 Resistance check from multiple positions l, doesn’t look too good Quote
Chris Campbell Posted January 14 Posted January 14 (edited) 47 minutes ago, Nathan Stockhoff said: Resistance check from multiple positions l, doesn’t look too good You should test the lead ends. Picture appears as if checking untaped areas which should not give reading. The copper magnet wire has a varnish to insulate from adjacent wire which also would not give a read Edited January 14 by Chris Campbell Quote
Nathan Stockhoff Posted January 14 Author Posted January 14 I did also measure leads and got anywhere from 1-48. My multi meter was in auto so it was bouncing all around but there was resistance. Assuming the sporadic reading is due to the lead ends being too short to gather together and get a stable reading Quote
Chris Campbell Posted January 15 Posted January 15 1 hour ago, Nathan Stockhoff said: I did also measure leads and got anywhere from 1-48. My multi meter was in auto so it was bouncing all around but there was resistance. Assuming the sporadic reading is due to the lead ends being too short to gather together and get a stable reading This should be good. I generally check for continuity through leads and then each lead against metal stator housing to verify there is not continuity. That is a shaded motor and generally they will be good. Last month I had one where the mounting post nicked wire. Just applied electrical varnish and covered area with friction tape. It runs fine Quote
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