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Posted

I’m having trouble taking this shaft out, does anyone have any experience with this brand? I have more pictures if needed.

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Posted (edited)

you have to peel back and straighten the flat metal pin next to the housing that is on the gear and drive it out of the hole.    Then remove the gear.   Then you can get it out.

Edited by Anthony Lindsey
Posted

Thank you, are you referring to pin in the below picture

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Posted

yes

 

Posted

Thanks everyone. I’m sure I will have more questions in the future.

Posted
4 hours ago, Nathan Stockhoff said:

Thanks everyone. I’m sure I will have more questions in the future.

It's a cotter pin.

Posted

This stator has seen better days, insulation falling off worries me due to arcing. What are your thoughts? If I replace where would you recommend I get one?

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Posted

If it isn't shorted or open, just apply some Sprayon EL600 varnish to it. Get 3 good coats in and you should be good.

 

 

Posted

Thanks Chris, how would I re land the wires to the stator. When taking the fan apart the wires were almost completely destroyed.

Posted

Can you provide better pictures of the leads leaving the stator? 

You may have to pull them back thru the body of the stator, strip them back, slip some heatshrink around the wires, solder on a new head wire, heat up the heatshrink, and slip the new headwires back through the body.

Posted

At around the 14:15 mark in this video, you can see how a new headwire was done.

Although the wires weren't pulled through the body of the stator as I described above. As long as you got a good electrical connection, and it's well insulated, you'll  be in business!

Posted
Posted

Yeah, look at the other side. You'll see the headwires go through the body of the stator. You need to pull those out and use that extra slack to solder new headwires on.

Posted

Thanks. Where would I buy replacement head wires. As you can tell I have no clue what I’m doing 

Posted

This is terrific! I really appreciate the help. Do you know of any videos on how to wire this up? 

Posted

What model do you have? Can you share a nameplate photo?

Posted
Posted

This is a single speed fan, if I'm not mistaken. So wiring this up should be pretty straight forward. There's no speed coil to worry about.

One of the most important tools you can have in your arsenal for fan restoration is a multimeter. Do you have one of those?

If so, have you checked your stator winding resistance? Get this as a baseline for making sure your stator is still good. 

When I'm doing fan wiring, I keep checking the winding resistance to make sure I didn't botch something up. The resistance of your stator windings should be almost the exact same as you work - to the point that when you've got the new plug connected, you should read the same resistance on the plug terminals through the closed switch. 

Does all that make sense?

Posted

I will give an update to them his thread either later tonight or tomorrow evening once I have time to check resistance. Thank you for your help.

Posted

Resistance check from multiple positions l, doesn’t look too good

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Posted (edited)
47 minutes ago, Nathan Stockhoff said:

Resistance check from multiple positions l, doesn’t look too good

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You should test the lead ends. Picture appears as if checking untaped areas which should not give reading. The copper magnet wire has a varnish to insulate from adjacent wire which also would not give a read

Edited by Chris Campbell
Posted

I did also measure leads and got anywhere from 1-48. My multi meter was in auto so it was bouncing all around but there was resistance. Assuming the sporadic reading is due to the lead ends being too short to gather together and get a stable reading 

Posted
1 hour ago, Nathan Stockhoff said:

I did also measure leads and got anywhere from 1-48. My multi meter was in auto so it was bouncing all around but there was resistance. Assuming the sporadic reading is due to the lead ends being too short to gather together and get a stable reading 

This should be good. I generally check for continuity through leads and then each lead against metal stator housing to verify there is not continuity. That is a shaded motor and generally they will be good.  Last month I had one where the mounting post nicked wire. Just applied electrical varnish and covered area with friction tape. It runs fine

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