Alec Burns Posted January 28, 2022 Posted January 28, 2022 (TL;DR: I restored a fan. Before and After photos are below.) It has been a while since I have been on the forum, and even longer since I have worked on a fan... over 3 years actually. In this time though I never stopped buying fans, I can't stop. Reading the posts on this forum and being in this community since 2015 tells me there must be some type of previously undiscovered mental attribute that is fan collecting. I like all antique things, but for whatever reason antique fans just speak to me, sometimes they keep me up at night thinking about the types I haven't found in the wild yet or how to best work on one I currently have. I don't know, maybe I should speak to my therapist. Well anyways, about a year ago I was in Denver for work and happened to see this BMY on the marketplace nearby. Was able to negotiate a bit and snagged it for $60. As soon as I saw it I knew exactly what I wanted to do with it, MAKE IT WHITE! Now if you know me, you know I never like to restore fans. It's a hot debate, but in my opinion, as long as the paint is at least 75% there and the patina is even, the most I recommend is to electrically refurbish the insides and preserve the rest, like a fine art conservator may do. My reason for this is because the original Japan is stronger and more durable then almost anything we have now, and true 100 year old patina on brass is special and jeweler's for many years have desperately tried to match this effect to little or no success. Also philosophically, most of these fans have survived 2+ national scrap metal drives and sometimes 100+ years of wear, meaning at least someone at any given time saw the beauty in them, who are we to alter its history and therefore its future? Alright, I'll get off my soap box, and this is purely just my personal opinion. And to be clear, RUST IS NOT PATINA. So when I saw this complete BMY with the paint almost 100% shot, I thought it was a great opportunity to take all of the skills I've learned with restoration from the wonderful members here and put them to the test, restore this fan inside out, perfectly... I soon discovered that there is no such thing as perfect. Mistakes were made, some compromises had to be met , and all I could do is focus on making each little part as perfect as possible to get as close as I could to perfection when every piece came together. The result, a fan, not perfect, not anywhere near the excellence I have seen from other members on the site, but a beauty that I and others will cherish hopefully for another 110 years. Thank you to everyone's knowledge and expertise that helped make this possible. I'm looking forward to which one I'll work on next! BEFORE: AFTER: 3 Quote
Alec Burns Posted January 28, 2022 Author Posted January 28, 2022 VIDEO: I'm including some process photos, since I always appreciate when other members do that with their projects... This is the exact kind of fan I like to work on, rusty and crusty but complete. This one was rode and light and put up wet. It's almost as if it stopper running sometime in the teens and someone just set it in the middle of a field. Parts prepped for the powder coater. Man, be careful to communicate which parts need masking. Powder coat is bulletproof. A dremel with a wire wheel is a very handy tool to have for this. Parts back form the powder coater. The color i went with was Antique White from Cardinal paints. it is a very subtle off white, not too yellow. Big fan. The downside to this is the outgassing. The powder coater degassed the parts 3 times, and had tiny oil spots around where the oilers were. He offered to outgas again and do a second coat, same problem. Gave me some touch up paint to fix those areas. originally was going to charge me $100 for the job but thanked me for the challenge and said it was free, I gave him $60 anyways. Got the speed numbers on there with awesome vinyl stencils from Chris A. Campbell and Testors Gold Enamel. Ended up wanting to give the PC a gloss and protect those speed numbers with a clear coat. Actually just used Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel, went on fine with no adverse effects to the powder. Beware clear coating white parts though, I got a few drips and spent a few hours correcting and wet sanding! A new skill that is now indispensable because it creates that silky smooth porcelain finish. Brass parts with lacquer removed. I polished the blade and only buffed the cage, should be more like factory specs once sprayed with Nikolas lacquer. I only have a hand drill with a denim and cotton buff/polish wheel. It's not perfect but is G.ood E.nough. Cool paper label on the stator, I think it says "134390". Cleaned the stator and speed coil with mineral spirits and gave a generous soak of Sprayon EL600 Clear varnish. A couple bare spots were seen in the coils, I spot coated them with liquid electrical tape. Nothing like dropping a clean stator into a clean motor housing. pro tip for whom it may concern, leave the stator in your freezer and warm the housing in the oven slightly. Slides right in. Got the rubber feet, cover label and headwire from Chad at antiqufanparts. Wow, this headwire is amazing, super soft and pliable, probably would've kept me from damaging the centrifugal switch leads on my WH tank. The bottom label is good, only thing I would recommend is printing the bottom label onto a more textured paper with no aging effects. This would be more accurate and would allow to add stains as desired. if you want to be really crazy, print it offset vs. digital. Just my 2c! 3 Quote
Patrick Ray Posted January 29, 2022 Posted January 29, 2022 Beautiful fan with a fantastic write up! 1 Quote
Doug Wendel Posted January 30, 2022 Posted January 30, 2022 Really nice job. I do my own powder coating and have gotten good at getting the toxins out gassed and the masking right. You’re right. Removing PC is not fun 1 Quote
Doug Wendel Posted January 30, 2022 Posted January 30, 2022 And I use RAL 1014, Ivory. I prefer the deeper yellow. 1 Quote
Michael Sturgeon Posted January 30, 2022 Posted January 30, 2022 Nicely done...I also restore fans and I know what it takes to make them look this nice. You've given me a few ideas just looking thru the pics and I'm envious of your clean and organized shop...And a stunning color...I think that makes the brass really pop!! 1 Quote
Arjun Saini Posted January 30, 2022 Posted January 30, 2022 I like the white paint. Did you get it powder coated? 1 Quote
Tristan Crider Posted January 31, 2022 Posted January 31, 2022 wow.. That is beautiful! Always love a white fan. 1 Quote
Alec Burns Posted February 4, 2022 Author Posted February 4, 2022 Thanks everyone for the kind remarks! Quote
Alec Burns Posted February 4, 2022 Author Posted February 4, 2022 On 1/30/2022 at 7:35 AM, Michael Sturgeon said: Nicely done...I also restore fans and I know what it takes to make them look this nice. You've given me a few ideas just looking thru the pics and I'm envious of your clean and organized shop...And a stunning color...I think that makes the brass really pop!! Well thanks, it's almost therapeutic taking apart an old fan completely, fixing it up, and then putting it back together. I'm not sure what it is. And my shop is actually a mess! I am too impatient to take breaks and clean so when this project was finished I had a few hours of cleaning and reorganizing to do 🤣 Quote
Alec Burns Posted February 4, 2022 Author Posted February 4, 2022 On 1/29/2022 at 7:05 PM, Doug Wendel said: And I use RAL 1014, Ivory. I prefer the deeper yellow. I'm looking forward to seeing your tank once it's done. The brighter white fits with my decor in a way I like but I love the creamier yellow on yours. There was a color at the powder coater (Cardinal Almond 90 Gloss) that I was real tempted to use. Yours should be a stunner! Quote
Arjun Saini Posted February 4, 2022 Posted February 4, 2022 Hey Alec I saw the way you did you bmy and it made me want to do it a ivory color. Did you paint it? Quote
David Kilnapp Posted February 4, 2022 Posted February 4, 2022 Arjun: Read the post my young friend. Alec had the parts powder coated. How Powder Coating Works Powder coatings are based on polymer resin systems, combined with curatives, pigments, leveling agents, flow modifiers, and other additives. These ingredients are melt mixed, cooled, and ground into a uniform powder similar to baking flour. A process called electrostatic spray deposition (ESD) is typically used to achieve the application of the powder coating to a metal substrate. This application method uses a spray gun, which applies an electrostatic charge to the powder particles, which are then attracted to the grounded part. After application of the powder coating, the parts enter a curing oven where, with the addition of heat, the coating chemically reacts to produce long molecular chains, resulting in high cross-link density. These molecular chains are very resistant to breakdown. This type of application is the most common method of applying powders. Powder coatings can also be applied to non-metallic substrates such as plastics and medium density fiberboard (MDF). Sometimes a powder coating is applied during a fluidized bed application. Preheated parts are dipped in a hopper of fluidizing powder and the coating melts, and flows out on the part. Post cure may be needed depending on the mass and temperature of the part and the type of powder used. No matter which application process is utilized, powder coatings are easy to use, environmentally friendly, cost effective, and tough! Quote
Anthony Lindsey Posted February 4, 2022 Posted February 4, 2022 I had an 06 16" Pancake powder coated but the cast iron kept omitting bubbles into the powder coat once in the oven. They did it 3 times and same results. And the company that did the powder coating is one of the biggest in S. Florida and do outstanding work. 1 Quote
Bill Dunlap Posted February 4, 2022 Posted February 4, 2022 This is a problem, particularly on cast aluminum. I've had some luck preheating the part to around 350 degrees, then spraying the powder on. Since the piece is destined to spend it's life indoors you can skip the curing process. This works at least half the time. 1 Quote
Alec Burns Posted February 4, 2022 Author Posted February 4, 2022 3 hours ago, Anthony Lindsey said: I had an 06 16" Pancake powder coated but the cast iron kept omitting bubbles into the powder coat once in the oven. They did it 3 times and same results. And the company that did the powder coating is one of the biggest in S. Florida and do outstanding work. That old cast iron just want to hold onto old grease. I had similar pock holes on mine. For most I was able to fill up with touch up paint. It is not a big issue for me because these cast iron bases had imperfections from the factory, including the paint. It reminds me of a time when on an old bike forum that these people were getting perfectionist on restoring this old tank bicycle, sanding down imperfections, using body filler and using top of the line paints until an older member who worked at one of the bicycle factories as a kid reminded them that they never spent more than a few minutes on each part of the bike... Quote
Anthony Lindsey Posted February 4, 2022 Posted February 4, 2022 I left it as is after the 3rd try. That was the Last time I tried having cast iron powder coated. Quote
Alec Burns Posted February 4, 2022 Author Posted February 4, 2022 17 minutes ago, Anthony Lindsey said: I left it as is after the 3rd try. That was the Last time I tried having cast iron powder coated. I think if I were to repaint an entire fan again I would try to use real japan, or maybe invest in an HVLP paint system. For some fans though I'd love to try baking on Rustoleum Appliance Enamel. My biggest gripe was with the durability/cure time in the past with fans but I read it can get pretty tough after a bake. Quote
Arjun Saini Posted February 4, 2022 Posted February 4, 2022 4 hours ago, David Kilnapp said: Arjun: Read the post my young friend. Alec had the parts powder coated. How Powder Coating Works Powder coatings are based on polymer resin systems, combined with curatives, pigments, leveling agents, flow modifiers, and other additives. These ingredients are melt mixed, cooled, and ground into a uniform powder similar to baking flour. A process called electrostatic spray deposition (ESD) is typically used to achieve the application of the powder coating to a metal substrate. This application method uses a spray gun, which applies an electrostatic charge to the powder particles, which are then attracted to the grounded part. After application of the powder coating, the parts enter a curing oven where, with the addition of heat, the coating chemically reacts to produce long molecular chains, resulting in high cross-link density. These molecular chains are very resistant to breakdown. This type of application is the most common method of applying powders. Powder coatings can also be applied to non-metallic substrates such as plastics and medium density fiberboard (MDF). Sometimes a powder coating is applied during a fluidized bed application. Preheated parts are dipped in a hopper of fluidizing powder and the coating melts, and flows out on the part. Post cure may be needed depending on the mass and temperature of the part and the type of powder used. No matter which application process is utilized, powder coatings are easy to use, environmentally friendly, cost effective, and tough! I did read the post but I thought powder coat was paint Quote
David Kilnapp Posted February 4, 2022 Posted February 4, 2022 I have a guy near me that does a pretty nice job of powder coating after he removes the paint via blead blasting. He's not expensive and the result is very nice indeed, about half of what it costs for Japanning. I prefer to Japanne if the fan is a rare fan that I plan to keep. Both Japanne and powder coating leave a very strong finish and neither can be easily removed. So powder coating is a type of "painting" insofar as it covers the fan like paint and is sprayed on like paint but it is much stronger than paint. Quote
Bill Dunlap Posted February 4, 2022 Posted February 4, 2022 I started powder coating about 25 years ago. Back then, it was black. Flat black, semi gloss black, and almost shiny black. The field has come a long way since then. There is very little you can't do with powder coat that you can do with paint these days. I like it because you can strip in the morning, powder coat by noon, and start assembly in the afternoon. Try that with paint. I don't think durability is the main advantage with powder coat. It's very good, but even a lacquer job on a fan used indoors will last many years. I've found that a fan with a mirror black powder coat job, when placed next to an original japanned fan will look identical, including the imperfections that they never removed from the originals. 2 Quote
David Kilnapp Posted February 4, 2022 Posted February 4, 2022 Bill: Considering the exceptional quality of your work, I'm inclined to take anything you say as gospel. Thanks for weighing in. How's the weather their in sunny HI? Quote
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