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Fitzgerald Star Electric - Model 1200


Dave McManaman

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I recently picked up this 8" nickel plated Fitzgerald Mfg Star Electric. A Model 1200 with a three speed universal motor. Save for the cage being bent in transit, it's seems to be in really good shape. Particularly for being around 100 years old. The insides and wiring all look solid. The brush/spring assemblies look like it was barely used. Commutator was clean with no wear. Not sure of it's history, but it really doesn't look like anyone's been inside. The nuts, etc, all looked undisturbed. It even has the paper tag on the bottom that makes me think it sat in a box for most of its life. The finish looks to be in good shape, no real pitting that I can see but it needs cleaned/polished. I've read several threads in the old forum about cleaning nickel finish, suggestions were everything from just soap/water to WD-40 with 0000 steel wool and a very light touch. Or even non-pumice hand cleaner. Anyone have experience with these, with cleaning/polishing the nickel? I presume it's pretty thin and I want to make sure not to get aggressive. I'd rather take baby steps to get it done. Here are some pictures as received and as opened up. 

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I have a 2200, single speed, non oscillator. It was in good shape, but I used quick glo to shine it up more. But thought it was chrome, not nickel.

As a related sidebar, I have a ge nickel where tag is shiny. My 2200 has a shiny tag too.

Relevant because I was unsure if nickel needs to be cleaned differently than chrome. Any input is appreciated...

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Russ, you beat me to the punch, purchased from amazon.

BUT, still unsure if this is ok for nickel finishes also. Does nickel need to be treated differently than chrome? Thanks...

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My only thought here is that some automotive chrome polishes have a light acid in them to dissolve rust that forms on the chrome. Not sure if that would act upon the nickel.  

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Thanks for the ideas. I tried to find out the ingredients on the Quick-glo. I saw there's actually three varieties with all of them having varying degrees of pumice, the ultra-fine P3 supposedly good for soft metals. But I never could find an ingredients list to see if it includes any acids. While I was looking, I also found a product called "Nevr-dull" wadding polish which actually advertises as being good for nickel plating also. Has anyone tried that? I may just start with an eyeglass cloth and some soap/water to get the oils off but suspect it's going to take more than that. 

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On 2/9/2022 at 11:25 PM, Dave McManaman said:

Thanks for the ideas. I tried to find out the ingredients on the Quick-glo. I saw there's actually three varieties with all of them having varying degrees of pumice, the ultra-fine P3 supposedly good for soft metals. But I never could find an ingredients list to see if it includes any acids. While I was looking, I also found a product called "Nevr-dull" wadding polish which actually advertises as being good for nickel plating also. Has anyone tried that? I may just start with an eyeglass cloth and some soap/water to get the oils off but suspect it's going to take more than that. 

Oils? Just use acetone or lacquer thinner. Won’t hurt the nickel or chrome. 

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On 2/11/2022 at 6:16 AM, Mel Lagarde said:

Any thoughts on when these Fitzgerald Electric fans were manufactured?

I read somewhere that the Model 1200 was out in 1922 but at least by 1920 as shown in this publication. 51CD0FF4-0322-4C43-9A78-22E3323BFFA3.thumb.jpeg.7d10f9a60be8b07c7e75aa7232e0f4a5.jpeg

Edited by Dave McManaman
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1 hour ago, Lane Shirey said:

Oils? Just use acetone or lacquer thinner. Won’t hurt the nickel or chrome. 

Thanks Lane. Just wasn’t sure how hardy the nickel would be. 

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Thanks all for suggestions and affirmation of a cleaning/ polishing regime. I used some acetone to clean up the oil residue around the front/back, nevr-dull to remove most of the rest of the tarnish, then hit it with simichrome and an eyeglass cloth. Still some more areas that I think I can clean up which became more apparent in these pictures. I started to take the bottom off so I could run a new grommet up the headwire as the one entering the head is busted.  But I held off. All of the rubber parts are dry so I may replace each one. But my next step is the mangled steel cage which I never seen to get right.

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Looks great. I've got one of these to work on but the armature has some big problems. It was $5 though so maybe a shelf piece until I found a functioning armature. FB_IMG_1645205149580.thumb.jpg.1dfec8fcda4be6b3c2b3c308d14b7649.jpg

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On 2/15/2022 at 1:33 AM, Russ Huber said:

Introduced in 21.

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I’ll be darn, advertised as having a “special Fitzgerald plug” and look what I just realized?!  
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Edited by Dave McManaman
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Well, the cage is getting there. Got it all cleaned up and back in proper shape. B450F9DB-11CD-487E-BC1C-E54DC7DC46C0.thumb.jpeg.61935a391a1c83f3b9fc135c42b30c7e.jpegQuestion about steel cages. Do they get clear coated?  Polished/waxed? How best to retain the luster against the nickel base?  

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6 minutes ago, Dave McManaman said:

Well, the cage is getting there. Got it all cleaned up and back in proper shape. Question about steel cages. Do they get clear coated?  Polished/waxed? How best to retain the luster against the nickel base?  

You could blue the steel and then put a silicone sealer spray over it. Thats what I do with other steel. Note that you can't clear coat it if blued, it will eat through it. You can clear coat it instead of blueing but I've never had luck. It always slowly blooms and rusts underneath. 

Edited by Trevor Andersen
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